Author Topic: Oil Pressure Switch Size (Read 5063 times)

duckboy74 · « **on:** December 20, 2010, 12:01:43 AM »

Hey

I tired searching but couldnt find anything on this. Does anyone know what size of wrench/long socket I need to remove the oil pressure switch?

I tired a 22mm/(7/8) so I know its bigger than that by a hair.

Toby B · « **Reply #1 on:** April 15, 2011, 12:51:15 AM »

24mm. and the threads are m12x1.5, just for the record.

t

monty23psk · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2011, 09:52:47 PM »

Is there suppose to be a washer there? RealOEM does not have one listed. I have a small oil leak in that area and guessing it is from the switch or the gasket for the oil filter housing. I replaced the gasket 2 years ago when I did the rebuild. Now have a little oil. I have tighten the pressure switch more but still get oil.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** May 29, 2011, 11:10:28 PM »

I thought there was a crush washer. I'm not sure though, I'll take a look tomorrow.

PelicanParts' pictures appear to have the washers included with the switch:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE30/POR_BE30_ENGoil_pg4.htm

monty23psk · « **Reply #4 on:** May 30, 2011, 12:11:31 AM »

Thanks and let me know. I see for the m20 it comes with the washer. For the m42/s14 it might come already on the switch. Mine is somewhat new, at least 2 years old, as the switch went bad. I also see that there is a o-ring besides the paper gasket for the oil filter housing. Next time I do an oil change, I will check my switch more closely, and even remove it to try to see about findiing exactly where the leak is coming from. Very hard to see. I just did my head rebuild and still get oil like before the rebuild, so believe its the switch or housing. Unless I have a weird leak on the bottom timing cover/case. Weird thing is that I just get a small pool of oil on the block under the coolant pipe but not any lower and nothing above either. The backside of the switch, which you can't see, is always wet after I slide my finger along it, but maybe it is back splash from this little pool. Either way it will get resolved eventually.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #5 on:** May 30, 2011, 08:20:12 AM »

I had the same thought...as I also have a very similar leak. I was planning on sealing mine with a bit of teflon tape as well as the crush washer.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 30, 2011, 11:21:24 AM »

I just had the filter housing off of the car & took it apart. There was a small aluminum washer on there. I applied a little big of non-curing gasket sealer to both sides of the washer & reassembled it. I also pulled the little plug from the other side & sealed that washer in a similar fashion.

Industrial teflon tape (rated for use with petroleum-based chemicals) would also be fine. Good luck plugging your leaks!

monty23psk · « **Reply #7 on:** May 30, 2011, 04:12:49 PM »

Thanks I know mine does not have one. For sure will take a look next oil change and report back.

monty23psk · « **Reply #8 on:** May 30, 2011, 08:26:06 PM »

Small update...checking one of my parts supplier, they had a picture of the switch it comes with washer. Maybe BMW does not list a part as the washer might be included to switch or comes attached to switch already. So looks like I might now know my problem but will see later on.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 30, 2011, 08:34:27 PM »

Can you see from where the oil is leaking on the housing? When you replaced the housing gaske,t did you just use a dry paper gasket, or did you use gasket sealer? Do you run full synthetic oil?

If you run synthetic, or any oil cleaner additive, your engine will most likely weep oil from just about any interface with a paper gasket. I'd put my money on the leaking being from the gasket, unless you used sealer. Then it could be the sender, or maybe the little screw plug on the front of it.

If you are going to re-do it & use sealer, make sure to find some that is rated for high temperature (450F+ continuous), resists oil & coolant and is non-curing. Permatex makes some inexpensive stuff like that. A number of people recommend one with "Hylomar" additive/compound/something. I couldn't find it anywhere, so I just used the "regular" stuff.

monty23psk · « **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2011, 10:00:00 AM »

I do use synthetic and after 3 years from last rebuild, no leaks. Then it just started at the beginning of the year. Maybe since I was running the engine even hotter due to bad temp gauge sender, it made toast of the gasket. Very hard to see where it is coming from. Next time I change the oil, I will remove the switch and add a washer if it does not have one. Then if oil still seeps, I will get housing gaskets and replace it using some sealer. I installed it try last time.

bmwman91 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2011, 11:05:45 AM »

Lucky you! I WISH my dry gaskets hadn't leaked.

silence · « **Reply #12 on:** June 01, 2011, 09:01:21 PM »

I have the same puddle of oil under the sender. it just started this weekend. My car would not drip a drop of oil, and now it leaks like half a quart in a week. I did do a track event last weekend, i'm not sure if that's what started it.

monty23psk · « **Reply #13 on:** June 27, 2011, 10:31:06 PM »

Took car of mine for the most part. Looks like top right corner of paper gasket was leaking. Added a new with sealant and now just have a tiny leak in that same area. THe washer on the presure switch, which I confirmed when I removed mine, was just stuck, is bad, probably from over tightening it. New one on the way. My car also never leaked and then from one month to the other got this pool on the block.

Here is a pic: