Author Topic: won't start, HELP!  (Read 4191 times)

AtlBMW

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won't start, HELP!
« on: March 04, 2010, 05:33:18 PM »
New owner here and the car that has always started right up is turning over but no start.
Two thoughts:

1. This happened immediately after I used this car(black318ic) to jump start my red car that had been sitting for about 2 weeks. I let both cars run a bit after disconnecting and later I tryed to start black car it is a no go.

2. My fuel pump has been screaming since I bought the car. Mechanic said that Po had dented the fuel tank and changed acoustics.Said hes has seen it many times caused by a miss jack. Said it may be going bad but has seen this cause a noise pump.

how can I tell if it is the pump or did I fry something jumping the other car?:mad:

Choking Hazard

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« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2010, 05:47:38 PM »
Cranks but no start?

Have you jumped it again to see if you did something to the battery?  Got a battery tester or a charger?

IDK about the pump.  Mine is pretty hard to hear...
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]-Scott

AtlBMW

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« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2010, 06:05:40 PM »
yea, I did use the wifes SUV to jump the black car.


It seems to turn over fine and accisonal a little ignition but no start.

I afraid to try too much for fear of fouling the plugs.

DesktopDave

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won't start, HELP!
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2010, 06:14:22 PM »
I'm not sure if this applies to the 'verts, but check for continuity on the small red wire from the battery to the terminal block on the passenger firewall.  You can also verify this if the check engine light won't turn on (and if the bulb isn't burned out/missing/removed by PO) when you turn on the ignition or attempt a stomp test.  IIRC your battery is up in the front.  If that's the case I wonder if that wire is still there, just shorter.

On my old 325is coupe that smaller positive wire has a fusible link that blows & kills power to the DME/ECU.  I cut mine out & used a small nut & bolt to pull the two eyelets together, then wrapped it in electrical tape.  You should just solder a thick bit of wire.  It's an 80 amp IIRC on thick wire, maybe 14 gauge?

The fusible link is a small circuit board that's buried in heat shrink tube about halfway up the trunk alongside the rear wheel well.  There is no way to check it (other than continuity) without cutting all that wrapping off.  I'll bet you could also test it with a big chunk of speaker wire or about 20' of household wiring.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2010, 06:23:28 PM by DesktopDave »
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS

AtlBMW

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« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2010, 06:35:54 PM »
Yes battery is up front and check light does light with key "on".

I don't see a red wire. there are 3 smaller wires come off the positive.

AtlBMW

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« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2010, 06:40:18 PM »
stomp test gives 1444

///m42 sport

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« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2010, 11:36:59 PM »
I just had the exact same prob.  Funny I also have the dent on the fuel tank frm a missed jack stand.

Hows weather there? Cold, alot of moisture? check your spark plugs make sure there dry, then try cranking and giving a little gas.  Do for min or two.  Is fuel level low?  you can also tap on the on fuel pressure relay.

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11110
« Last Edit: March 04, 2010, 11:40:05 PM by ///m42 sport »
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AtlBMW

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« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2010, 05:53:32 AM »
Quote from: ///m42 sport;88906
I just had the exact same prob.  Funny I also have the dent on the fuel tank from a missed jack stand.

Hows weather there? Cold, alot of moisture? check your spark plugs make sure there dry, then try cranking and giving a little gas.  Do for min or two.  Is fuel level low?  you can also tap on the on fuel pressure relay.

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11110



Weather has been 50's and around 30 at night. Filled it up yesterday.

For some reason I suspect fuel delivery either electrical or mechanical. I have looked at 3 different diagrams of fuse boxes and they are all different.:confused:
Can you direct me to the pump relay?
« Last Edit: March 05, 2010, 06:17:45 AM by AtlBMW »

///m42 sport

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« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2010, 12:50:49 PM »
fuel pump relay is under the cover on the firewall (in the center right below the windshield).  you pop the cover off from underneath.  The fuel pump relay is the one that has a bunch of # printed on the side.  try tapping on it
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RED IS 91

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« Reply #9 on: March 05, 2010, 05:33:30 PM »
If this thread doesn't fix it you need a new car


http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5462
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

:D The Little Car That Could :D   214,000 miles :D

AtlBMW

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« Reply #10 on: March 05, 2010, 07:16:44 PM »
Fixed!

Had the wife turn the key and smacked the fuel tank under the pump.
Now the pump is even quieter. Worked fine all day.

BlueBMW

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« Reply #11 on: March 05, 2010, 07:43:15 PM »
Nothing that a good whack with a hammer cant fix! :D  Glad you got it running.
1991 318is (Sold to brother :()
1995 530i (Daily driver til I find another 318is!)


AtlBMW

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« Reply #12 on: March 05, 2010, 07:59:38 PM »
Thanks, I wounder how long I have with this pump.
Local dude offered a good used one $75 with 30 day warranty

RED IS 91

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« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2010, 01:39:37 AM »
You may want to check your connection at the fuel pump under the seat.This has been known to cause problems.
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:D The Little Car That Could :D   214,000 miles :D

DesktopDave

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« Reply #14 on: March 06, 2010, 11:39:35 AM »
If it's not the fuel pump making enough pressure check the ohms on your crank pos sensor.  They have a habit of just dying abruptly too.
'08 Karmesinrot 128i 6MT
'86 Zinnoberrot 635CSi (M30B32/G265/3.46 torsen LSD)

Sold: '97 Montrealblau 318iS, '91 Brilliantrot 318i, '91 Brilliantrot 318iS