Author Topic: New, assistance greatly appreciated.. (Read 6129 times)

Kennysss · « **on:** January 10, 2010, 05:43:43 PM »

As in the title I'm new to this site, and to these cars. I own a '91 318iS, well taken care of with just about 104k on it.

I'm really enjoying the car, however, I have a problem..I've basically come here asking for help, so anything is appreciated.

KIND OF LENGTHY

Anyways, here are my issues..
Problem one: When it's cold outside, and I start the car after having it off for a bit it will make a whining noise. It sounds to me like a belt, and according to some information i've gathered it could be the alternator overworking to charge my battery? I'm not sure though. If I turn the wheel, the noise is affected. Same with any amount of throttle. However it will go away after running for a minute or so, depending on the temperature.

Problem two: One day I was driving down a main road around where I live at a reasonable speed of about 45-50mph in 5th gear, no problems whatsoever. And I heard a single beeping noise, maybe even more like a ding.(It was the same exact noise you hear when the drivers door is opened with the car running, however this one only dinged once.) And still, nothing happened. BUT when I put my signal on to turn, I put the clutch in and moved the shifter into the neutral position and began to apply brakes. I didn't need to stop and wait at the intersection as no cars were coming, so I just rolled through and as I began to turn I noticed the steering felt far heavier than it should..and I realized the car had dropped below idle rpm's and just died. I pulled it over, and restarted. It idled at about 1500rpm for several seconds and eased back down to normal (800-900 est.) I put it in first, and proceeded slowly driving home. Since than, that has happened once more after coming off of I-75 on the exit ramp. And after that, I've heard the ding at intermittent times but nothing ever happens.. It continues to idle fine. I'm not sure what it could be, this has only happened since it has gotten colder outside.

Thanks a lot to anyone that reads this and offers any advice

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** January 10, 2010, 05:55:52 PM »

Welcome to the group. Where did you find a 318is with 104K? Color me green w/envy. Mine had 271K when the speedo died...who knows how many miles it has now...

I think problem 1 might be a bent power steering bracket or an old belt. I'm just guessing though...could be so many things.

The second problem might be related to the P/S belt, or it might be that the steering just got really heavy from the engine stalling. I'd check the crank position sensor, and maybe think about replacing the main & fuel pump relays under the firewall plastic. If either of those parts dies, so does the engine. The CPS has a tendency to get really dirty, attracting dirt until the signal gets attenuated. I clean mine every few months, whenever I'm under there.

BTW, I had a '97 s14 myself. Desperately needed a black-top SR20DET swap though. I still miss that car.

Kennysss · « **Reply #2 on:** January 10, 2010, 06:07:48 PM »

Found it in Naples, FL..lucky find I would say. I actually got it with barely 102k.

I'm not very concerned about problem 1, I will look into it but I'd rather focus on #2. The steering getting heavy makes sense because the car had literally shut off completely, I just didnt notice it until I made the turn. Can there be any correlation between the engine dying and the dinging sound? That's what gets me..It only happened after that noise was made. And um, as I said I'm pretty new to the cars as well..what is a CPS?

I really appreciate the help.

(About the nissan, cool. Almost everyone seems to say the same, they all love those cars. I'd like to say the same about the swap in mine but I'm still trying to have it in acceptable running condition after picking it up so cheap. My water pump, thermostat, radiator/rad. hoses and a few other maintenance items should be here soon..)

^NVM. Got the CPS thing when I actually thought about it. Silly mistake.

RED IS 91 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 10, 2010, 06:28:19 PM »

Problem 2 (dinging) is probably your memo buttom on the dash . Right of the radio is the system with the outside temp ,clock.date ,memo ,If the memo is pressed the system will ding every hour . When you press memo a little light will come on to say it's activated IIRC. Also if the outside temp gets below 35 degrees F the system will beep . Do you have a owners manual ?

CPS is either crank position sensor or Cam position sensor .

Kennysss · « **Reply #4 on:** January 10, 2010, 06:34:52 PM »

Well I've had the memo system on since I bought the car, the PO even made a point of pointing that out to me. It does beep three times every hour. It wasnt that same noise though, it was the noise you hear when the car door is opened while the car's running. More of a ding, you know? I've heard of the temperature thing too, and it may have gotten that cold the second time I heard the noise, but only with wind. I live in southwest florida. And yes, I do have the owners manual.. Thank you for pointing that out actually. Kind of stupid of me to overlook something so painfully obvious that could point me in the right direction. hah.

KenC · « **Reply #5 on:** January 10, 2010, 07:01:19 PM »

Sounds like your power steering pump is going out. Cheap and easy to replace. I'd rule that out first

Kennysss · « **Reply #6 on:** January 10, 2010, 10:51:25 PM »

I suppose that's true also. Are the P/S pumps having problems somewhat of a common thing with these motors? Or, more reasonably, is it just due to age?

(on that topic if somebody could recommend things that should be replaced on these motors specifically, for the best maintenance etc. I would also really appreciate that.)
Thanks again guys for helping me out here.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #7 on:** January 11, 2010, 07:08:10 AM »

P/S racks are the problem. Usually one of the seals goes & leaks your ATF (not P/S fluid) out of the system. Since the pinion is separately lubricated, I just drained the fluid out of mine & drive without the P/S pump belt. I'm planning on swapping an e36 or Z3 rack to speed up the steering response.

Kennysss · « **Reply #8 on:** January 11, 2010, 10:45:40 AM »

hmm I see..
Well the car was just driven again, on the initial start up I let it warm up for a couple minutes before it was driven. This time there were no dings, but just about every time I took the car out of gear the rpm's would just drop all the way until the motor died. I had to re-start it almost every time I needed to slow down. Then it was turned off, sat for almost an hour, and I drove it back home right after with no issues. However, it feels as if the idle is kind of odd.

Is this pointing towards anything more obvious? What should I be looking for? It's got me confused.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #9 on:** January 11, 2010, 11:47:47 AM »

Test the ICV/clean the ICV/clean the AFM. The idle control valve fails pretty regularly. I test mine with a good 9v battery. You should see the little valve flick over & feel a slight vibration. Some are noisier than others. I had a brand new ICV fail, if you can believe that. Test them all.

Might be a vac leak too, our cars are notorious for that. The hose that runs from the air box gets warmed by coolant then crosses back to the ICV. Mine was split nearly in half before I replaced it; the car ran much better after that.

Kennysss · « **Reply #10 on:** January 11, 2010, 03:19:25 PM »

Okay. Might be on to something here. I just read up on how the idling system in these cars works, and this is starting to make more sense.

I did a few tests with the ICV.
1) Started the car as usual, it idled fine. I then removed the 2-pin connector for the ICV and the car simply died. No erratic idling, hunting or anything.

2) Started the car with the ICV disconnected, and it started then simply died.

I tried testing the ICV with the car's power by turning the key to position 2 with the ICV in my hand, also with the connector plugged in. I could feel a very very faint vibration from it. I intend to clean it and see if that will make a difference.
HOWEVER, upon further inspection I noticed that the intake hose going from the rubber intake boot in between the air filter and throttle, on the end that connects to the ICV, is cracked.

Here is a picture

This is probably assisting in creating the problem isnt it?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #11 on:** January 11, 2010, 03:49:11 PM »

Those lines have to be perfect...no leaks. I've taped them with a little electrical tape for a quick fix, but they should be replaced. BMA, Pelican or a BMW dealer can supply them for you, they're not that bad. You could also use a length of heater hose, though it's not rated for vacuum.

You could upgrade to silicon hose too, I suspect that would outlast the car.

richbarn2 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 11, 2010, 04:03:49 PM »

Quote from: DesktopDave;84441

Those lines have to be perfect...no leaks.

Definitely a must fix item.

FWIW, my OBC "dings" at 37 degrees F.

Kennysss · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2010, 04:53:01 PM »

Alright, thanks guys for the help. I like the sound of the silicone hoses.. where could I find those? I know they may not be necessary, but I dont see anything wrong with a little extra security.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #14 on:** January 11, 2010, 06:00:53 PM »

I found a set here on EBay from seller 'hiperformancestore.' The seller even wanted to work with me on a 'kit' for the e30 m42. He'd supply extra hose, I'd supply the exact measurements & pictures of the finished product...

Summit & other shops carry bulk silicone too. Turbo guys might have a better source.

And it comes in colors...match your paint!

Alternatively, do the hose delete; or just buy some bulk hose online or at an Advance Auto/Pep Boys, etc.