Author Topic: My oil cooler project on a SC M44 (Read 17734 times)

Bunta · « **Reply #15 on:** November 15, 2009, 07:56:53 PM »

Are those VPD filter housing caps not available anymore?
Im pretty sure they bolt on or only need a little modification to fit.

Looking at your bracket it looks like you have acess to a tig welder. Is it possible to just weld fittings on an m42 oil filter housing cap(there aluminum)?

Nice work so far.
Ill be interested to see how much of a difference it makes.

Hunter

rob_e30 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 16, 2009, 10:53:14 AM »

Where did you get that plate? I've tried but cannot find a link to it.

LPCapital · « **Reply #17 on:** December 03, 2009, 12:23:03 PM »

Sorry fellas, didn't mean to disappear, but for some reason I don't get email notification from this forum when someone replies to my threads. I've noticed it in the past and have forgotten to check it lately.

Quote from: ethirtysix;81516

quick question on the dasc. was your kit specific to the year of your car?
i have a 94-95 kit and planning to install it on a m44 z3 (still shopping for the car.)
do you know if i should be anticipating a huge problem? thx!

David

I know there are few "minor" differences between the vairous years. I'm not sure which, but I'm sure if you give a call to DA (http://downingatlanta.com/downingatlanta/da_superchargers_new.htm) and speak to Jim Goodroe he'll be able to give you all the detials. They have spare parts, so he'll likely be able to supply you with whatever you might not have in your kit

Quote from: Bunta;81520

Are those VPD filter housing caps not available anymore?
Im pretty sure they bolt on or only need a little modification to fit.

Looking at your bracket it looks like you have acess to a tig welder. Is it possible to just weld fittings on an m42 oil filter housing cap(there aluminum)?

Nice work so far.
Ill be interested to see how much of a difference it makes.

Hunter

Based on what I was told by Ireland Engineering, oil inside the housing get pumped on the outside of the filter, goes through the cartridge and than flows down the central spindle. Their cap basically blocks off the passage between the oil filter and the center spindle: it intercept the oil after it has passed through the filter, allows you do whatever you wanna do with that oil and then, through the return line, puts it back into the center spindle. Just adding a fitting on the cap won't work, cuz you won't have flow: the oil will go thorugh the path of least resistance which is directly from the filter to the center spindle. That's why you need a modified oil filter housing cap.

The cap that IE makes fit and sits tight. The problem is that the filter element won't and they couldn't find one that would

Hopefully this makes sense...

Quote from: rob_e30;81551

Where did you get that plate? I've tried but cannot find a link to it.

In the US the plate can be bought from BAT Inc while in the ROW is sold from Thinkauto.com. Thinkauto is the manufacturer of Mocal products, while BAT is their importer in the US.

LPCapital · « **Reply #18 on:** December 03, 2009, 12:25:50 PM »

I couldn't get the elbows on the takeoff plate to hold pressure (I was trying to pair a 1/2" NPT with a 22mm: they are close, but not enough): I decided to go brute force and TIG weld it. That took care of it:

And here's the final result:

I cut out a hole to route the hoses nicely:

I had to modify the alternator bracket a bit to be able to clear the elbows:

The oil filter & thermostat (along with the senders for the instruments) fits tight under the airbox. It also make the replacement of the filter cartridge very accessible.

And of course, a couple of pix of the engine bay which looks... stock...

Here's a closeup of the modified thermostat sandwich plate (the filter is a Ford PH8)

A couple more pix of the oil filter bracket prior the installment:

Enjoy!!

Hey-u · « **Reply #19 on:** December 04, 2009, 02:27:25 PM »

Nice work and great pics.

Bunta · « **Reply #20 on:** December 13, 2009, 05:39:37 PM »

Details on welder?
Work looks great

LPCapital · « **Reply #21 on:** December 14, 2009, 11:56:56 AM »

Quote from: Bunta;82961

Details on welder?
Work looks great

Is a guy local. Very quality stuff: he's the one I use when I install the rear toe & camber kit on cars with E30-like subframe as well as other intake modifications

His name is Tho and this is website: http://www.timemachineracecraft.com/

Hodge · « **Reply #22 on:** December 14, 2009, 09:07:00 PM »

Are you saying that Ireland oil cooler adapter for theE36 M5x will work with E36 M42s? That would be awesome.

e30guydownunder · « **Reply #23 on:** December 15, 2009, 03:15:25 AM »

Gday mate,

great progress, love your work.

I was just wondering, the oil filter take off plate, was the back of it flat or did it have some machined cutouts for the oil relief valve circuit? If you happened to take a picture that would be even better.

Do either of your remote oil filter/thermostat plates have provisions for a check valve? How is startup, does oil pressure comeup straight away?

Thanks,
Chris

LPCapital · « **Reply #24 on:** December 15, 2009, 12:53:09 PM »

Quote from: e30guydownunder;83034

Gday mate,

great progress, love your work.

Thanks!!!

Quote from: e30guydownunder;83034

I was just wondering, the oil filter take off plate, was the back of it flat or did it have some machined cutouts for the oil relief valve circuit? If you happened to take a picture that would be even better.

The filter cartrigdge has a bypass walve that opens when the pressure differential between pre- and post- filter is above 12PSI.

Here's the filter cartridge I'm using. It's the XtendGuard version of the PH8A filter, common on Ford's blocks.

http://www.power-21.com/FramPower21i/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=XG8A

Quote from: e30guydownunder;83034

Do either of your remote oil filter/thermostat plates have provisions for a check valve? How is startup, does oil pressure comeup straight away?

There's actually 2 check valves.

One fits on the plate, as the BMW's one and prevents oil to drain back from the head.

Here's a pix from this (http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7700) thread:

The second check valve is built into the oil filter cartridge, as described in the filter specs (see above).

I haven't notice any change in the amount of time required for the low pressure light to go off or noticed any ticking noise from the valvetrain at cold startup. Everything seams the same.

I have an electronic pressure gauge which starts moving about 1 to 2 seconds after starting and goes straight to 60PSI (again, this is at cold start).

Quote from: Hodge;83029

Are you saying that Ireland oil cooler adapter for theE36 M5x will work with E36 M42s? That would be awesome.

It fits, but since it's different, inside, the oil filter won't. That's why I had to go this route.

visionracingdevelopments · « **Reply #25 on:** December 16, 2009, 06:19:25 AM »

Nice one dude looks good!

Do you have a temp gauge fitted? Can you post up some temp readings? Interested to see what they are.

LPCapital · « **Reply #26 on:** December 16, 2009, 12:17:34 PM »

Quote from: visionracingdevelopments;83079

Nice one dude looks good!

Do you have a temp gauge fitted? Can you post up some temp readings? Interested to see what they are.

The car is my DD and the needle sets right around 180 on freeway drives. This is when outside temp is around in the low 60s; it gets closer to 200 in stop & go traffic.

I went on a spirited drive on Saturday an played with a friend in an S52 ///M coupe around some uphill twisties and the highest I got it was 220 which is perfect, IMO. This was driving up hill on and off the throttle keeping the car in boost between 4K and 6K. Outside temp was between 60 and 70...
I noticed the car was behaving very well, without "getting tired" as it used to (I didn't have a temp gauge before, so I don't know). Oil pressure was optimal too Consistently around 70PSI.

I would suggest anyway, and thinking about doing it later to use a high temp thermostat instead of the one I used: Mocal has one set at 204F instead of 180F. This shouldn't affect the oil temp under heavy load, but keep the oil warmer and maybe accelerate warmup when under light load...

visionracingdevelopments · « **Reply #27 on:** December 16, 2009, 01:57:38 PM »

Yeah 220 is pretty much optimum. Definantly don't want it much lower than 180 though but guess the thermostat keeps that in check.

Very much considering one for mine once the Rotrex is fitted but keen to see some before temps first for the comparison.

LPCapital · « **Reply #28 on:** December 17, 2009, 12:40:50 AM »

Quote from: visionracingdevelopments;83092

Yeah 220 is pretty much optimum. Definantly don't want it much lower than 180 though but guess the thermostat keeps that in check.

Very much considering one for mine once the Rotrex is fitted but keen to see some before temps first for the comparison.

That's really why I would highly recommend a high temp thermo: it will just rise the lower temp without affecting the high temp. Let me know how it goes!!!

visionracingdevelopments · « **Reply #29 on:** December 18, 2009, 03:57:29 PM »

God knows when I'll have some figures but watch this space :rolleyes: