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Messages - odbod

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1
CPS in the M44 is in the block, rather than the sump, I have a late M42 block and it has the cast mounting for the M44 CPS so I think the late M42 and M44 block is the same casting, if you plug the hole in the block and us teh M42 front timing case etc. as well as the head and sump I thnik you will be fine.

I am bulding my 2l engine based on m44 block and pistons with M42 (E30) head and sump, timing case etc.

2
Engine + Driveline / Did we ever figure out the "Hot Start Problem"
« on: March 10, 2009, 02:35:26 AM »
I get upto 330 from a tank, mostly motorway miles, 2 runs a day to and from work ~18miles each way, so 2 cold starts a day, cruising at an indicated 85mph, but actually at 3800-3900rpm, so ~78-80mph in reality.
In US gallons (3.78litres) that's 27-28mpg (I think), in UK gallons (4.54litres) that's 33mpg.

I didn't have a lambda sensor as euro cars are non-cat versions, but I am converting to run on lpg so I've had 2 lambda bosses welded in, since then I've hooked up a new factory sensor and un-plugged the cable, it took about 3-4days to settle down (lumpy idle) with the sensor connected but now it pulls much better on part throttle, particularly at motorway speeds.

Also we run on minimum 95ron fuel in the UK and can get 97-98ron at every filling station so the tuning on the original ECU is setup for this which may help economy. The ECU is tuned for 95ron, so running 98 makes little difference to a car this age.

I haven't used a whole tank of fuel yet so I don't know if the fuel economy has increased, it looks like it may have done as the tank doesn't seem to be emptying itself as fast, but that may be wishful thinking...

3
Engine management / PCIII Not GSXR
« on: February 18, 2009, 09:02:40 AM »
I won't know till I try it, I expect that it will take it's groun ref from the main earth, but I'll wait and see. I don't know enough about the Triumph bikes to know what the throttle pot is but 99% of them are 0-5v so here goes nothing!

4
Engine management / PCIII Not GSXR
« on: February 18, 2009, 07:42:59 AM »
Thought you might be interested to see this, it is the PCIII I have bought to try on my E30 318IS. Unlike the GSXR one it appears that I don't have to cut any wire as it is plug and play!

It is from a Triumph TT600 PCIII Part Number 505-410/505-411

The injector plugs go straight into the existing injector plugs and new plugs are already on the loom to fit the injectors.

There is a wire tap (the red bit) for TPS and a ground point. The PCIII is USB as well to make things easier. It seems the PCIII gets it's power from the 12v injector feeds.






5
Engine management / Megasquirt as Piggy Back
« on: February 15, 2009, 03:46:59 PM »
Can you use the rpm signal from the feed to the dash board, or is this too weak?

6
Engine + Driveline / Did we ever figure out the "Hot Start Problem"
« on: February 14, 2009, 03:03:31 PM »
Quote from: keflaman;66113

Wish I could find something in the wiring manual, but there's nothing that jumps out at me and I'm not all that good with schematics anyway:o


In terms of wiring diagrams see here, using the grid reference look at E6...

The wire comes from the air flow meter to an input on the ECU called LLCO ( maybe Light Load CO2 but thats a complete guess). and shows as "not connected w/catalytic convertor"

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/BMW/1991/318%20Series/WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/fig02.pdf

There are wiring diagrams for nearly everything here
http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/BMW/1991/318%20Series/WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/

I'm retro fitting an o2 sensor to my car (euro non cat) to use with the LPG kit I am installing, once it's in I'll hook it up and see if I get the same problems, euro ECU's are supposed not to work with the O2 sensor hooked up as they need different software, but it may be all to do with this connection.

7
Engine + Driveline / Mustang Injectors in an M42 engine
« on: February 14, 2009, 02:48:53 PM »
The E36 M42 injectors are the same size, I've got some sets of them and they are the same, the M44 have the larger base we are talking about here.

I'm not sure it's air injection, I'm stripping an M44 at the moment and the additional air inlets are for the idle air control that is mounted to the side of the throttle body.

M44 Fuel Rail and air lines from ICV



M44 Throttle Body


I'm pretty sure that I had a set of E36 M42 injectors that are 2 of 4 hole type

8
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Single Row Chain
« on: February 10, 2009, 07:32:43 AM »
there's a DASC kit on sale in te UK for £600 at the moment on http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/886244.htm

I've not got enough money to buy sadly, too much spent on a 2.0l build

9
I had the same problem when I changed a head recently, gauge got to less than 1/4 when driving, but would get hot and hold at 1/2 way when left standing.

Try letting it idle to warm up once the gauge is up check you are getting hot air from th heaters and then go for a drive, if the thermostat is stuck open (or knackered, mine looked fine when I took it out) the engine temp will drop and the heater will stop working.

There is also a solenoid valve above the glove box, I can't remember if it opens or closes the hot water supply, but if it's not working could be stopping the water flow to the heater.

Although the hoses feel warm, do they feel too hot to touch?

On the M44 sensor issue, some have tried to wire up the E30 dash and ECU into the 2way one (3 pin I believe) in the M44 head, this doesn't work as they don't talk to the E30 systems, you need to put the ECU sensor (2 wire one from E30 M42) into the head and either drill another port for the Dash sensor (1 wire sensor) into the head or make up a mounting in the water hose near the thermostat so it picks up the temp increase when the thermostat opens, whilst not ideal that way you will at least know if you are getting to hot (although if you run low on water and boil the head it may not pick it up fast enough).

The M42 head flows better than the M44 head so it may be worthwhile changing back to the M42 head anyway.

10
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / Single Row Chain
« on: February 03, 2009, 08:10:10 AM »
I've done a bit more digging an this subject, the BMW chain is a european duplex standard chain spec is 06B-2, 06B=3/8" pitch, -2=duplex chain. Based on this being a standard chain then you can go to most engineering suppliers and order a simplex (single row) version of the same thing. The IWIS catalogues suggests that it is a 120link chain, but I need to count this to be sure. I called a local distributor and the most expensive, durable and strongest chain on the market today is a Renold Synergy chain, which would outlast any OEM chain, a Synergy Simplex 06B-1 Chain in the UK comes in at £42.53+VAT @ 15% which is expensive, but not a huge amount, and I'm sure it could be found cheaper... This is made and riveted to length, not using a removable link (although emold claim their removable link is ok) You should be able to get one made locally in the US too.

http://www.renold.com/nmsruntime/saveasdialog.asp?lID=426&sID=942

11
Right, so I've picked up an even cheaper rover crank, and here's some pictures,

Front end, needs turning down, oil pump drive milling and extending  :D


Back end appears to have had a timing ring on it at some point



Marking shows it to be 88mm stroke, so not an M47N



All in all a bit of an odd combination, just as long as there is enough meat on the nose and the timing ring mount doesn't give any hassle when balancing it should be fine, (but then I'm not going for 300bhp and driving a SC! ;) )

12
Hi,

Prob building 2.0l M42 using M47 Crank and M44 pistons. Can get this one brand new very cheap (may be more avilable later).



523068 2246 861 37RC4 88

Not sure what this means but I'm guessing 2246 861 is a partial part number and 88 refers to the stroke.

Its from a Rover 75 that used the M47 diesel engine.

Question is, before I jump, does it look right, I am 99% sure it is OK.

Only thing is the nose looks short, but then it does have the 8 counterweights (89.5mm crank has 4 according to MM).

On another note I will need to skim 2.5-3.0mm off the pistions, Do M44 pistons have a dish in them like M42 ones and when they are skimmed do the valve pockets need extending? I am leaving the head stock.

I'll prob buy new pistons as they are listed at $249 or 139 euros so should be £125 in the uk tops and you get rings and wrist pins etc in the set I think (looks like it in ETK)

Thanks

13
M42 Reference / M47 crank refrence guide.
« on: January 15, 2009, 03:27:57 PM »
Does anyone know that the engine was also fitted to the Rover 75 (UK Brand) and is engine code M47R. I am trying to get more information, anyone know if it is usable?

D'oh just re-read above that it is listed, has anyone used one?

14
General Topics / Oil Leak in front of engine
« on: April 22, 2008, 02:11:12 PM »
after I did all new gaskets on my engine I had similar problems, one from the lower timing case gasket and one from the inner timing case gasket. The second one was at the point where this gasket meets the sump, nasty 3 way joint there, in the end I reverted to using a very small smear of sealent on the gaskets before assembly, and used another whole set of gaskets. now it's all  dry

15
Swaps, Turbos, Buildups / M20 flywheel conversion
« on: May 22, 2007, 04:15:05 PM »
You should be able to take it to a regular machine shop, but check they are good and make sure that the wheel is clocked up and runs true before you start machining. Whether you also have it balanced is up to you, i didn't because I trust the guy who did it and the wheel ran perefectly true before machining.

Runs great with no vibrations so must be ok!

At the same time I had som more removed from the back face to get rid of some more weight!

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