Messages

1

WTB/WTT / Re: WTB e30 m42 vibration damper

« on: September 10, 2018, 02:08:46 PM »

Along the same lines as the OP, I had a no-start condition traced to a failed vibration damper (innermost rubber section had separated 1/4 inch away). Was able to find a good enough used one (11231721169) from eBay for $55, and the car started immediately after installing it.

2

How-To's / Re: Blower motor and resistor replacement (with pics)

« on: April 02, 2017, 03:09:54 PM »

Recently completed the blower motor and resistor replacement on the 91 318i. Somehow I dislodged the male spade ground terminal when I installed the black plastic cover the first attempt -- didn't make that mistake this time. This thread was a big help and it's nice having working AC prior to the onset of another Vegas summer.

Regarding getting the motor installed in a proper orientation, I used a Sharpie to draw a marker line on the old motor casing just above the resistor prior to removing the motor. From the seam on the motor case, measured the distance and drew a second line on the replacement motor before installing it.

Once again, thanks. This is an example of a thread that keeps on giving.

3

Electrical / Re: Optima battery fitment

« on: June 05, 2015, 11:28:03 PM »

I've had the same Optima Redtop in my 91 318i for at least 10 years. The holddown will work just fine. Might need a slightly longer negative terminal battery cable.

Can't be more specific because the car is in the shop to change out the AC compressor and receiver/drier. Old unit was blowing fuses, new one unfortunately is doing the same thing for now.

4

Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: June 07, 2014, 10:48:37 AM »

After a warranty re-do because of a defective head gasket that caused a coolant leak, plus a thermostat housing replacement (coolant leak), I'm rolling again. So far, so good.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: m42 rough idle - need help

« on: May 20, 2014, 07:36:23 PM »

The tensioner -- doing the guides would be much more invasive.  You can drop the lower oil pan, and if you have bolts or other parts sitting in the pan, then the case for doing the guides would become much stronger.

Here's the thread I was referring to

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18215.0

6

Engine + Driveline / Re: which oil you would recommend?

« on: May 20, 2014, 04:46:25 PM »

I'm stabilizing on Mobil 1 15W-50, having tried their 10W-40 high mileage, and 0W-40 European formulas.

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Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: May 20, 2014, 04:43:52 PM »

It's back on the road. I let the repair facility rebuild the original head through whatever machine shop they use. Besides the head work, went with eight new exhaust valves and guides, valve stem seals, thermostat, water pump, timing cover gaskets, and had them heli coil two of the valve cover bolt holes on the head.

I might have considered a long block if I got some really bad news once the head came off, but it was in good shape. Prayerfully I'll be good for another 200,000 miles. 

8

Engine + Driveline / Re: m42 rough idle - need help

« on: May 20, 2014, 04:31:39 PM »

The cheapest thing to try first would be replacing the timing chain tensioner.

At 232,000 miles on my M42 (rough idle, failed smog checks), I ended up having a garage do a cylinder head job -- eight new exhaust valves and guides besides the other things that go with a valve job. I have a thread on this board that went through all the other things I did before I bit the financial bullet to get my car running properly again.

9

Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: April 04, 2014, 11:17:34 AM »

Claimed the car. From their paper work: compression test results (1 -4): 190, 40, 200, 180. Cylinder leak down test found leakage coming out of exhaust which means it's going past exhaust valves.

10

Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: April 03, 2014, 10:33:54 AM »

The spark plug insulator on #2 was darkened on one side (not wet nor black), the rest were clean.

The repair facility called this morning: leakdown test on one of the cylinders suggests problems with the exhaust valves. They wanted $3000 to do a valve job, along with $1000 to change the steering rack, plus other items they found along the way.

I said I'll be picking up the car tomorrow without those repairs being done. When I have the diagnostic paperwork in hand, I'll post something more comprehensive.

11

Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: March 31, 2014, 04:02:03 PM »

Vegas. Rough idle cold, gets somewhat better as car warms up. When I turn on the AC, idle drops 500 rpm and is slow to recover. At low speed/low rpm, it feels like I've lost a cylinder.  AFM's getting 5V power, its temp resistance measurement was close to spec, while I didn't see a smooth resistance curve when I pushed on the AFM vane (jumpy) which apparently isn't good according to the Chilton manual I was using.

Taking it in to a 2G repair facility tomorrow afternoon. We'll see where it goes from there.

12

Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: March 28, 2014, 11:36:34 AM »

March 27, 2014 update. Replaced the injectors with remanufactured ones (four nozzle -- Bosch 0 280 150 943) that included new o-rings, and new intake gaskets. I also disconnected the battery to give the DME a chance to reset, unfortunately no real improvement in idle. More parts on order (Bosch plug wires).

13

Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: March 18, 2014, 12:31:58 PM »

Thanks. This is the long form I submitted on bimmerforums.com in the E30 section. I'm not planning to do any more cross-site posting besides here and there.

1991 BMW 318i, 231,000 miles, original DME, fuel injectors, cat, coil packs and spark plug wires. Head gasket replaced at 50,000 mile point in 2000.

My perfect test streak ended today (2794 idle HC, 220 ppm max allowable, 23 miles of driving prior to test). Rough idle with lagging low speed performance. Runs smoothly at highway speeds of 60-80 mph. What I replaced and tested so far in the last 3.5 years:

September 2010 – changed oxygen sensor (188,000)
June 2011 – completed a full vacuum and coolant hose/pipe swap. Did not do the “mess under the intake” hose delete mod. Other than new o-rings, left the fuel injectors alone. Replaced both intake manifold gaskets and degunked the lower intake runners and combustion ports.
June 2012 -- replaced the alternator’s voltage regulator and brush assembly.
July 2012 -- replaced the blue DME coolant sensor and washer.
December 2012 -- new throttle position switch and throttle body gasket
January 2013 -- refurbished AFM, new air and fuel filters
February 2013 – replaced failed fuel pump with one from another forum member’s part out
August 2013 – new ICV
October 2013 – new engine ground cable
January 2014 – latest oil and filter change (Mobil 1 15W-50)
March 8, 2014 – sudden onset of rough idle problems.
March 9, 2014 - changed the fuel and air filter a bit over the 231,000 mile mark, added Techron fuel injector cleaner
March 16, 2014. Since I had some oil leak through into the #1 spark plug tube of the 91, replaced the spark plugs with the recommended NGKs, valve cover gasket and four profile gaskets over the top of the spark plug tubes at 231,156 miles. Checked battery voltage (14.15V with car idling, 12.6V after shutting down engine)
March 17, 2014 – failed emissions test. Measured spark plug wire resistance (in KOhms 5.9, 5.7, 6.0, 5.8 from wire 1 to 4 respectively). Stomp test only shows no faults (1444), no CEL light during any of this recent trouble. No visible smoke.

Have refurbished fuel injectors on order, have a spare coil pack and DME available to swap. Thanks again for listening and any help provided.

14

Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: March 17, 2014, 03:33:08 PM »

Hi:

Plugs are new NGKs (two side electrodes). Did a resistance test on the wires (in KOhms): 5.9, 5.7, 6.0, 5.8 from wire 1 to 4 respectively. The car had 23 miles of warmup (10 miles combined on surface streets) and the rest on a decent sized freeway run prior to hitting the station. Nevada can do hot rod or classic registration but that would cap me at 5K miles per year, and I do about three times that with this car.

I do have a spare DME and coil pack, but only the coil pack has been test installed (but not recently). The car sat for a good part of the weekend and showed 12.06V battery voltage prior to start, but ramped to 14.15V quickly after starting, and was at 12.6V when I checked it after shutdown.

Reading the article now on my lunch break --thanks for listening

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Engine + Driveline / Re: failed NV smog inspection

« on: March 17, 2014, 01:50:52 PM »

Hi:

I kept getting 1215 stomp codes with the old AFM so I went with a refurbished one by Greg Mannino (GregM on bimmerforums.com) Currently there are no codes besides the "no problem" 1444.

The blue temp sensor was replaced about the same time I did the hose/coolant pipe/intake gasket refresh 2-3 years ago. I've ordered some refurbished injectors to attempt to eliminate plugged injectors as an issue, and that will give me a chance to do a more thorough visual inspection of the vacuum hoses when I swap injectors. I'll certainly look at swapping in a different O2 heater relay today.

One day it was working beautifully, the next day the idle was low and rough. I've been living with this for about 9 days.

As always, thanks for your help and advice.