Messages

1

Suspension / Re: Restore 1991 318is to stock height - Much confusion, PLEASE ADVISE

« on: May 16, 2017, 06:42:59 PM »

I have the H&R OE sport springs (5040-55) and they fit perfect. I replaced stock springs and I did have a slight drop. I also installed Billy sport shocks at the same time which I find a little stiff (my battery bounces over big bumps, need to find a hold down). This was almost 7 years age but my car is a weekend/summer warrior so only a few thousand miles. I will say the Koni's seem the best option lately. Also, the biggest improvement I have seen in the overall ride was a full bushing refresh front and back using OE rubber. Huge difference for what it's worth.

2

M42 Reference / Coolant Temp Sensor Part #'s

« on: June 05, 2012, 01:43:42 PM »

Are you getting a CEL? My symptoms were a flickering CEL, rough idle, and code 1223 (after stomp test). I switched out the CTS (#8) and the issue went away. It returned, however, and I traced my issue to exposed wire (sheathing looked to have been rubbed away) in the lead from the CTS, maybe 3 inches from the connection at the cylinder head. The wire was shorting/arcing and  this caused the flickering CEL and crappy idle, I temporarily fixed the isuue by wrapping with electrical tape and all is well for now. Long story short, if you are not getting a CEL I would strongly suspect a vacuum issue that is some how only showing itself when things are gettting warmed up in the engine bay.

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M42 Reference / Coolant Temp Sensor Part #'s

« on: June 05, 2012, 07:48:08 AM »

Just to clarify. The sensor (#8 in the above linked diagram) is for the DME signal and will trigger a CEL when it fails (code 1223). #6 as mentioned is the sender that feeds the gauge, and as far as I know will not effect the running condition of the motor at all. My understanding is that these sensors rarely fail. For a rough running motor I was always suspect vacuum. For a jumpy gauge check the cluster and any grounds first. Best way to rule out the sensor would be a resistance check, I believe the Bentley has the proper readings, if not hit up Desktopdave on here, a treasure trove of info.

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Engine + Driveline / Which coolant sensor sends signal to DME?

« on: June 01, 2012, 09:41:39 AM »

I think you have at turned around, as my CTS closest to the fan failed and i had CEL, no problems with the gauge. I replaced that CTS and have had no problems since.

5

Engine + Driveline / Help with Check Engine - E30 M42

« on: March 09, 2012, 01:25:12 PM »

jrobie, thanks for the input. I was planning a complete "mess" fix in the future, hoping that will eliminate the issue.

On a completely unrelated note, I grew up in Newbury, MA and have a very dear friend from Andover. I spent a lot of time right down the street from Phillips Andover in the late 80's during highschool. I miss the area (just not in winter!).

6

Engine + Driveline / Help with Check Engine - E30 M42

« on: March 09, 2012, 12:26:04 PM »

Thanks for the response. Would a vac leak consistantly cause that CTS fault code? That is what I am curious about, why that code? But the more I think about it, the more it sounds vac related, I was just getting hung up on that sensor fault.

7

Engine + Driveline / Help with Check Engine - E30 M42

« on: March 09, 2012, 10:05:58 AM »

Morning all. I am dealing with a somewhat frustrating issue that has me baffled. The motor is in a 91' 318iS with unknown mileage, 2nd engine swapped by PO. The car runs like a top (it is my 2nd M42 E30, and is much healthier than my first). A few months ago I began getting an intermittent CEL, just flickering on and on off, mostly during throttle lift and idle (stop lights). It is never present at start-up and I can't associate it with cold/hot engine. The stomp test delivers a consistent 1223 (coolant temperature sensor). When I first diagnosed the issue I swapped a known working sensor in (the one closest to the front of the engine, that feeds ECU) and that seemed to eliminate the issue. It is, however, back to its evil flickering ways. It will often come on steady now after a stop but extinguishes with any throttle input. I notice it won't flicker again until I reach a steady speed on the motor (@3k rpm at highway speed, for example). It is also pretty consistent on throttle lift and decel but still exhibits enough random pattern that I can't for the life of me give it a good incidence profile. Any thoughts? Just another bad sensor (I think it would be a sold light if this was the case, with crappy idle?) harness problem? Thanks for the read and hopeful ideas.

8

Exterior / Where do you buy fog lamp lenses?

« on: March 09, 2012, 07:44:23 AM »

If you are not married to the OEM glass concept, I have heard good things about the lens replacements for late-model fogs sold at BMWlight.com. $49 for two, of course they are plastic but everything I have heard is they are nice quality. I plan on buying and then slapping on some tinted lamin-x, I never use the fogs and I just want to freshen up the front end. Just my 2 cents.

9

WTB/WTT / WTB/WTT for DME's to experiment on...

« on: December 08, 2011, 09:27:07 AM »

Dave,
I have a fully functioning DME out of a 91' 318i I would gladly unload. I am interested in cruise control (currently driving a 91' 318iS) modification know-how/parts. Let me know.

10

For Sale / The Ultimate COP FS Thread

« on: June 09, 2011, 10:12:37 AM »

Just ordered, looking forward to the smooth idle!

11

WTB/WTT / WTB Diamant-Schwarz 318iS

« on: February 12, 2011, 09:11:39 PM »

Hello all, I am currently in mid-restoration stage on my Brilliantrot 318i and would really like to find a DS 2 door to add to the collection. Since I already have a basket-case in the garage I am looking for as few issues as possible, prefer a working radio (CD upgrade would be nice), working heat and A/C is a must. I won't post a budget but i am more than willing to pay for a well cared for example. Location is not relevant (I have resigned myself to the fact that Texas just doesn't have the E30 market of other regions, so road trip it is!). Thanks for looking folks!

12

General Topics / New E30 318i Owner =)

« on: February 24, 2010, 03:02:27 PM »

ever make it to the nor'east and i get my s14 running you can drive one.

Born and raised in Boston Mass and graduated from VMI in 1995, which is not far from W. Va. Lots of reasons for me to be in either area in the future, may take you up on that...

13

General Topics / New E30 318i Owner =)

« on: February 24, 2010, 02:53:15 PM »

many will argue that the 89 M3 was the last real m3 bmw made. my self being in that group lol

ive got 2 4doors and 4 2 doors. all m42's with the exception of the 2002 and the 85 318i 2door. they have m10's

That opinion has a lot of validity, and I agree on a lot of levels, but from my (and mine alone) perspective I fell in love with the straight 6 engine design/characterisitcs in of all things a 1993 Jeep Wrangler, which led me to a 2003 Lexus IS300, which hooked me on rear-wheel drive, which directly led me too the  finest straight 6 ever built, the mighty S54. So I kind of backed into my love of BMW's from an early affinity to the straight 6. I think BMW made their name developing the finest six cylinder cars in the world, and I consider the S54 the pinnacle of that development. The four cylinder and all its wonderful rev happy characteristics are an evolution of my love for the 8k rpm limit on my S54 and so here I am. If I ever actually get to drive an S14 I reserve the right to change my opinion Oh, I also said last true "M", not best.

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General Topics / New E30 318i Owner =)

« on: February 24, 2010, 08:58:49 AM »

I wholeheartedly agree with your take on the M42, it was the only choice for me when I got serious about buying a hobby/project/auto-cross car. I own an E46 M3 (my first BMW) and although I love that car for its technology (I think the last true "M" from BMW, a debate for another board) it has spent quite a lot of time in the garage. My 318 needs a ton of work, as I have mentioned, and frankly it drives like crap right now it is so loose and unpredictable in the front, but my motor runs strong and I can feel the potential in the lightness and balance. I can not wait to get this car sorted, at which point I will start my own thread and quit hijacking this poor man's intro.

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General Topics / New E30 318i Owner =)

« on: February 24, 2010, 06:52:17 AM »

Ouch...$2500?!?  Can't you buy some salvage parts?  I paid $250 for an entire 325is that gave me a lot of the stuff I needed.  Front suspension parts are something that should always be bought new though...

I am going to go with a re-man 95 M3 steering rack, all new control arms, E30 M3 bushings, new tie-rods (complete) new sway bar links, H&R Sports and Bilstein's at all corners, new wheels (the 15" Panasport Replica's from Ireland Engineering),Vorschlag studs, new tires, I need a diff (my open 4.10 is toast, so LSD it is) and a new steering wheel. Then I will need an alignment and I should be sorted. My plan is to go Lemfoerder for the suspension bits so that is the real cost driver here, but I only want to do this work once, and I figure my 8 year old daughter will thank me when she gets the keys at 16 to a solid 30 year old classic (what teenage girl wouldnt be thrilled, right!?).