Messages (Become)

I just read over your post again i thought you said you had already replaced o2 sensor but i misread  Get your self a multi meter and get a copy of the bentley manual you can also find it on this site (dont have the link any more you will have to search for it) With the manual you can then check the ranges of your sensors and make sure they are in spec I would look at the O2 next and make sure its functioning properly: sorry thought you said you replaced it already :X

ooohhh just found this THREAD CHECK IT 
At the end he said it was his cps and he was getting code 1214

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=8721.15

Hey welcome to the club! I love the old hachi roku and the 318i is similar, Both RWD, both great weight ratios, amazing handling & both low horsepower 4 pots    
Your plan of cleaning the icv maf and new plugs are all a great start And should be done anyways since you just bought it.  I would also recommend a new fuel filter while your doing general maintenance.  As for your problem it seems like a sensor problem, I would check your crank sensor this is the most likely culprit, While your at it check the cam sensor. GL! 

Yes unfortunately ground controls website doesn't give much info, like the part where the spindle had to be modified slightly. I will say though that they were the nicest guys i have talked to on a sales call, talked for about 15 min about cars and the weather so im sure they would be more then happy to help out with any problems that arose.   

The tie rods themselves are adjusted via the spacer/shim.
What you want is Zero Bump.
First you Set up the car to race conditions i.e tire pressures camber, caster , toe, sway bar settings etc. make sure every things is torqued properly and the steering wheel is centered and locked. Then you measure from the ground to the ball joint write the number down. Disconnect the sway/springs and return the car to the proper height (the number you wrote down) Then with a bump steer gauge you basically jack the suspension through 2-3 inch of travel write down the results and then shim as needed. For instance if it toes in on compression and out on rebound then you need to adjust the outer tie rod.

To answer your question about do you need this setup its difficult to say, the only way to truly know is to get a bump steer gauge and do what i said above. Excessive bump over .050 will definitely slow you down and you will need to adjust this.

Yes you should replace those. I fixed the dme relay on my car by taking sand paper and cleaning the contacts tell they shown silver/gray recently and it fixed my instrument cluster about 98 percent which wasnt working. The only thing not working on my instrument cluster now is the mpg which some times works and sometimes dosn't. I just went ahead and ordered a new relay to see if it will fix every thing for good. For your no start problem it would be a good first cheap step to replace those.

Nice car skid . And where the HECK Did u find that for 200  i want one lol

I love the write up on this car, and especially the included description of seller lol.
Overall Seems like an awesome car, good luck with the sale!

The cheapest option if you have fabricating/general skills is what darky mentioned. If you dont want to go that route here are the more expensive options but with the benefit of mostly every thing being done for you.. besides tuning.. 
http://www.extrudabody.com/servlet/the-335/Kit-cln--BMW-M42-fdsh-M44-Kit/Detail
http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Throttle-body-kit/for-Racing/BMW/Mutli-throttle-intake-system-for-racing-for-BMW-318is-E30-E36-1-8-16V-100kW-M42B18::8580.html
http://www.gttechnic.com/catalog.html

You will probably have to buy one of the Kits above as Itbs Rarely Get resold  

Maybe its just the wording of your post but "Radiator fan spins turns like nothing is wrong" IF by that you Mean its Spins as in spins Freely With NO resistance then your clutch is bad. The fan, engine off, should be able to be turned, but not spin freely. It should be tight and smooth. Also You said "It does overheat if idling but not moving " This is The typical symptom for failed clutch the car heats in stop-n-go traffic, but cools again when the traffic starts moving. This is because the airflow through the radiator is lost when the viscous couple fails to lock, then as the car speeds up the airflow increases with the speed.

the stage of the clutch means the friction material can hold a greater torque.
So to answer your question A Stage 2  clutch will give you greater clamping and torque capability with mildly decreased driveability. Usually stage 2 is done after some engine modifications but if you want to track it alot you could do it.

1222 is one of the codes from hell. First thing since you have replaced the o2 already is to take some throttle body cleaner or brake cleaner etc and spray around all the hoses and intake boot, Listen for An increase in Engine Rpms.  If you hear the engine rev up then you have an air leak from one of the hoses or intake boot. Next, does your car stall/idle badly if you let off the gas at idle? If so your Icv Could be bad. If this is the case you can Buy a new one or do like i did and clean yours with carb cleaner and toothbrush. The next thing to check out after that is your PCV Valve, when mine went bad you could hear a loud wishing noise coming from it. If The pcv is bad it could Throw the 1222 as well. There are a few more things that could cause the 1222 but the ones i listed are the most likely culprits. Try these fist and let us know if you still have the problem! Good luck