Author Topic: Help don't know what else to do (Read 6139 times)

KenC · « **Reply #15 on:** October 18, 2009, 09:54:04 AM »

The sensor goes into the timing case... it's going to get oil on it.

Jorgeconrico · « **Reply #16 on:** October 18, 2009, 05:38:51 PM »

Ok, I didn't know if that was normal. Guess I'll try to get a new COP kit to see if that cures the misfires. Thanks everyone.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #17 on:** October 18, 2009, 05:45:55 PM »

Did you check your DME coolant sensor? There are two, one for the dash cluster & one for the DME.

If it's not telling the DME that your car is warmed up you'll stay in open loop and the timing would remain dialed back. That might cause your symptoms. You'd also see poor gas mileage & maybe a little black smoke at WOT.

Jorgeconrico · « **Reply #18 on:** October 18, 2009, 06:32:26 PM »

I'm not seeing poor gas mileage or black smoke. Sorry to ask this but how would I test these sensors to get a diagnosis? I need to stop being lazy and download the bentley manual.

Jorgeconrico · « **Reply #19 on:** November 04, 2009, 04:20:37 PM »

Ok, just tested the crankshaft sensor for fun and it read about 500 ohms. Is this low enough for it to be a problem or is it within reasonable range?

Edit: reading 492 Ohms

Jorgeconrico · « **Reply #20 on:** November 04, 2009, 08:15:18 PM »

Sorry to keep posting, but i was doing some testing and found out that the original CAM sensor, which is off the car was perfectly fine reading 1250 Ohms exactly. The new CAM sensor which is currently on the car is reading 1420 Ohms (it is also a cheap aftermarket brand, Facet). I'm not really sure where to go from here. I guess I will be putting the old one back on and see what happens. I'm just unsure why the hell the resistance is high especially if the part is new. I also don't understand why I was getting a 1244 code for a cam sensor when apparently it was fine to begin with. This problem is really annoying. Like it says in the first post, its as if the engine is hitting a "false" rev limiter. I've done some further research and some people say this is caused by camshaft sensors, others say crank sensors. I've even read a COP kit may cure it. I don't want to drop anymore $$ until I know what to replace. If anyone can give some input if they have had this problem I will give you my first born son.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #21 on:** November 04, 2009, 09:06:19 PM »

Hey this may sound way out of range, but have you tried to change your computer chip?
Do you know anyone with the same car nearby? It sounds like a long shot I know. But try it. All you will do is emphasize that its not the chip. Kinda of guarantee.

Jorgeconrico · « **Reply #22 on:** November 04, 2009, 09:17:07 PM »

No I don't know anyone near me, but i recently purchased a chip and it was doing this long before I got it. I wouldn't be against putting the stock chip back in just to see, but I really don't know if it will help. Thanks though.

Put the original cam sensor back in and its reading a perfect 1250 Ohms.....

After testing the crankshaft sensor I'm wondering if that could be the problem. Like I said before only reading 492 Ohms.:confused::confused:

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #23 on:** November 05, 2009, 08:05:42 AM »

If you haven't replaced the crank sensor, that would be my only other guess.

Jorgeconrico · « **Reply #24 on:** November 05, 2009, 08:11:39 AM »

Thanks for the reply, but before I go and drop like 160 bucks, I just wanted to know if the reading I got (492 Ohms) is within spec (650 Ohms). I know its low but I don't know if its low enough to be a problem. Anyone out there test theirs recently??

Edit: I looked at the bavauto thread that Red IS 91 posted and I am in the ballpark with 492 Ohms. Wonder why the two base numbers are different 650 v 540 Ohms. Thanks for posting that thread.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #25 on:** November 10, 2009, 07:42:16 AM »

Did you check the gap too? A perfectly good sensor will miss if it's too far away from the trigger wheel. I'm just guessing, but at high revs maybe the cam pos sensor is losing sync, then resetting & topping off your red line at 5k?