Noisy Engine

[fabby318is]

My second 318iS did that after I replced the tensioner...before I performed the BADLY needed timing case rebuild.  A number of roller-bearing shells on the timing chain had shattered off, and the chain was doing who-knows-what.  I suggest you pull the valve cover and use a breaker bar to rotate the engine via the big 22mm bolt on the crank damper (main pulley).  Closely check every link of the chain for missing/broken shells.  If there is even ONE bad one, rebuild the timing case (and I am betting you have a few).  That includes chain, all three guides, the tensioner rail, tensioner piston, tensioner piston metal O-ring,  cam sprockets, crank sprocket, woodruff key that secures the crank sprocket, HUGE crank damper bolt (I wouldn't reuse a bolt that was in there with 230ft-lbs!), lower case cover gasket, upper case cover gasket pair, thermostat housing gasket, and the valve cover gasket is a good idea, too.  If your temp gage does not sit at near-vertical, replace the tstat in while you are in there.  IIRC you do not have to pull the water pump itself (just the pulley on it), but check the shaft for play.  If there is any, replace it as well.

Anyway, that is the COMPLETE list.  The timing case-only stuff & T-stat gasket will probably run you close to $400 for parts.  I am not sure where you are located, but I built a tool to hold the crank in place while removing the damper bolt/reinstalling.  If you are within driving distance, or want to pay for shipping (the thing is like 8" x 16" x 1/2" and 20lbs) and want to borrow it let me know.  Hell, anyone who wants to let me know...I know how frustrating it is to try to do the job without a locking tool!

Anyway, back to the point.  After checking the chain, drain the oil and pull the lower pan.  Remove ANY metal chinks you find in there.  They WILL rip through the oil pump inlet screen...myself and a couple others here learned that the very hard way.  So at the minimum, check the chain and clear out the lower oil pan!

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Yeah, that seems to be a common thing, having the upper-pan bolts fall out.  Try to clean the holes out really really well before putting the bolts back in.  Threadlocker does not work especially well with oil.  I had the same imprints on my stuff when i pulled the pan...but my pump had already blown itself and part of the timing case apart from a chink of timing chain getting in there!

Wow that's quite an extensive list of parts to overhaul the timing chain components. There have to be quite a few fellow M42's getting up there in age and will require the same repair work. It would be great if we could find a supplier who would offer a complete M42 timing case rebuild kit and of course at a discounted rate for fellow board members. Any idea guys?

[Febi Guibo]

agreed!!! ...we need to start a thread on the group buys area... and call patrick at BMA

[Jtuner]

Wow that's quite an extensive list of parts to overhaul the timing chain components. There have to be quite a few fellow M42's getting up there in age and will require the same repair work. It would be great if we could find a supplier who would offer a complete M42 timing case rebuild kit and of course at a discounted rate for fellow board members. Any idea guys?

Also agreed, seeing as I'm guessing I'm going to be doing the whole thing..
 
bmwman91, I may need to borrow that tool lol BUT I'm in south dakota so, when the time comes and I have everything I need, i'll be givin you a buzz!! I start school on the 22nd of august, so that'll be the closest time I can get my car in the shop (I'm an auto tech student). I will however pull my valve cover, and drop my pan this weekend and identify my situation.. Thank you everyone for your help!!

[Jtuner]

OK so I popped off my valve cover today to inspect my timing chain, and the guide(tensioner?).. Everything looks pristine,, I'm talkin no chips, no missing links, no loose ANYTHING, but after I put the valve cover back on, the chattering/rapping/knocking was still there.. I looked at the inside of the valve cover as well, and it seems as if there are slight wear marks where the chain would slide across the valve cover if possible,,, the sound still goes away at about 3100-3300 rpm+... I did however put my ear up to the valve cover to try and get more of an idea where its knocking, and it's maybe an inch up from my oil cap itself, which would be right about where that guide(tensioner?) is.. Not quite sure where to go from here,, everything was closed by the time I woke up today so I couldn't change my oil Any ideas?

[Jtuner]

Oh I also inspected my cam gears as well as I did the chain, and I didn't see any signs of wear at all.. I mean this damn assembly looked brand new.. when I get my camera dock working, i'll post a picture