Timing Chain Tensioner Question and Squeak on Startup

[Paul150]

Hi, all, I have two questions for you guys, and I figured I'd ask here instead of BF since the M42 doesn't get much love there.

First one is simpler -- I'm wanting to replace my timing chain tensioner, as I've noticed a ticking sound from the motor.  It's not the Diesel type sound I've been hearing on videos posted here, so I'm not 100% sure it's the culprit of the ticking, but I've had the car for just over 61,000 miles (bought at around 82,000 in 2001; just over 143,000 now).  I know my family (and later myself as I inherited the car) has never replaced the tensioner, and I have no idea what the PO did, so I'm thinking it's a good idea to go ahead and get the job done, as simple as it is.

Anyhow, my problem is that when I decompressed the new tensioner before I went outside to install it, the tensioner decided to come all the way apart ( thought I had a solid hold on it, but I guess I goofed).  I'm having trouble reassembling it because the split ring doesn't want to seat properly into the groove when I attempt to squeeze the piston back together.  I bought a C-clamp to hold/compress the piston together and tried using a few screwdrivers to pry the split ring into place, but once I pop one end into place, the other unseats itself.  My question is pretty simple for as long as this intro was -- is there a good tool out there to be able to wrap around the ring and put even pressure on both sides of the clip so I can seat it properly and reassemble the piston?  I'm sure there's someone out there who's dealt with the tensioner falling apart on them...

My second one is shorter, but it may be harder to answer -- Upon a cold startup, I'm hearing a slight squeaking sound that seems to intensify with higher humidity somewhat.  The only thing is that on a hot start it goes away as well as after I dive the car for about 30 seconds (i.e. no noise when I idle after that period).  Both the A/C and serpentine belts were replaced about 1,700-2,000 miles ago as well as the water pump, and that stopped the squeaking (and later rattling as the plastic impeller started its demise) that remained constant whenever the car idled.  I notice no difference with the A/C on vs. off, so I don't think the squeak is there; otherwise, I'm reasonably sure it's not the water pump.  Any ideas where to look here?

Anyhow, thanks in advance for any help you guys can give me.  I'd really appreciate any advice on either question.

And as an afterthought, this is for an E36.  I don't think it makes a difference here, but thought I'd mention that too.

[B318M42W]

make sure that all your belts are nice and tight, then chexk your power steering fluid... i think that a "dry/deprimed" pump squeels a lot...

[Paul150]

Thanks for the response.

Would the P/S pump stop the squeak once it's running for a while?  I'll make sure to check the fluid.  If it's low, is it good just to top it off without doing the really complex flush procedure, or would I be better off to take it in and get the system drained completely?

I guess when I go out tomorrow, I'll check the P/S and belt tension.  If P/S is low, does any ATF work, or does BMW recommend a certain kind?

[romeomike]

Been there done this back in April 2009. C-clamp, a small precision (jeweler's) screwdriver to help seat the split ring, persistence, and a twist to lock it back into position. God granted me the victory and I was able to install it with no further drama. I had about 2-3 seconds of clatter on startup that went away once oil pressure built up inside the tensioner.

Check your oil level. That has cured quite a few people's "ticking" issue.

[nicknikolovski]

Squeaking belts usually mean that they are too loose or too tight, but mainly loose.
Check your alternator belt. I fitted a new belt after a timing chain replacement and found that on cold start up the belt would squeak loudly. All I did to fix it was increase the tension of belt.

Also while your in that area it might be a good idea to check your A/C compressor pulley, A/C comp tensioner, harmonic balancer (this could be slipping - very common on alot of engines that feature a pulley made of rubber and metal), water pump, alternator and p/s pump.

For the timing chain tensioner, the original tensioner that needs to be re-assembled after removal is the old version. It has been superceded.

[Paul150]

So P/S level looks alright.

Romeomike -- Would running a lighter oil help out (seems to be recommended often on this site, though I don't know if it's pertinent here)?  And I hear the sound constantly, even after an oil change.  I tried the screwdriver against the timing case and valve cover, and I couldn't exactly pinpoint the source, though I heard the noise more when I had the screwdriver against the front of the valve cover and on the timing case.

And you say that the C-Clamp and eyeglass/jeweler's screwdriver was all you needed?  Did you fully recompress the piston, or did you put it in the properly extended range (decompressed but not sprung apart)?

Nicknikolovski -- How would I go about tightening the belts?  As I understand from the Bentley manual, the belt tensioner is automatic (car is a 1995) -- Would I need a new tensioner assembly for the belt?    If belt tension is a common cold start-up issue, it sounds like a good place to start (and I guess unless you know where the problem is, it's best to start with the simplest job).  And as for the harmonic balancer -- is this a pulley that doesn't drive anything and sits towards the top of the assembly between the water pump/alternator pulleys?

Anyhow, I do appreciate the feedback.  Sorry if the questions seem a bit elementary, but I just started doing my own work like this over the summer, and I like being sure of what I'm doing before I mess with anything.  But thanks for all the help/friendliness towards the new guy.

[romeomike]

So P/S level looks alright.

Romeomike -- Would running a lighter oil help out (seems to be recommended often on this site, though I don't know if it's pertinent here)?  And I hear the sound constantly, even after an oil change.  I tried the screwdriver against the timing case and valve cover, and I couldn't exactly pinpoint the source, though I heard the noise more when I had the screwdriver against the front of the valve cover and on the timing case.

And you say that the C-Clamp and eyeglass/jeweler's screwdriver was all you needed?  Did you fully recompress the piston, or did you put it in the properly extended range (decompressed but not sprung apart)?

Given the Vegas heat and mild winters, I'm leaning toward the heavier weights. I'm currently using Mobil 1 10W-40 high-mileage full synthetic for the first time on my most recent oil change ($22 for a five-quart container at Walmart Supercenter). I've used all sorts of brand name (Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline) conventional, synthetic blends, and full synthetics from 10W-30 to 20W-50 over the years. The son's 90 325i M20 has Castrol 20W-50 full synthetic, ditto for the wife's 2004 325i.

On your next oil change, run a bottle of engine flush for five minutes, then drain and change your oil and see if that helps. I never used seafoam on my cars, but there are many threads and some videos on the product. I don't know if it's meant to cure a ticking noise.

Upon reflection, when I did the tensioner fix I got it to the properly extended position. Let the C-clamp do most of the work in holding the piston, use 1 or 2 screwdrivers around the edges of the clip to ease it in, then tighten the C-clamp. Revisit the thread to see which way the OP decompressed it, and turn it the opposite way to lock it back in.

Adios for now,

RM

[nicknikolovski]

Paul150 - Sorry didn't know you had the auto adjusting belt tensioner. Depending on whether you have 70A or 80A alternator, there are two pulleys + a mini spring tensioner that you will need to replace. So refer to these diagrams for that: For 70A alternator http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=11_1387&hg=11&fg=18
and for 80A alternator
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=11_1389&hg=11&fg=18

You're after item no. 3, 8 & 12 for the 70A alternator or 3, 8 & 13 for the 80A alternator.

But before you go replacing any parts, I would check the vibration damper/harmonic balancer to see if it is slipping. You will not miss this pulley - it sits on the front of the crankshaft. Refer to this picture for what it looks like. It is item no. 1. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE53&mospid=47480&btnr=11_1385&hg=11&fg=18.

To check if it is slipping, remove the drive belt and your A/C belt, then unbolt the 6 or 3 (depending on year either <09/95 has 6 or >09/95 has 3) little 13mm bolts holding items no. 1 & 2 together on the crankshaft hub. Then simply remove item no. 2 and leave item no. 1 in position. Get some white marking pen or liquid paper and mark a line anywhere on the front of item no. 1 over the metal and rubber sections where they meet. Then refit item 2 using the 6x 13mm bolts. Refit your drive belt and A/C belt. Start and turn off your car a few times, rotate the steering wheel a couple of times, turn the A/C on and off, and even rev it a couple of times. All these actions are putting load onto the crank. Then shut off the engine and remove your belts again, remove item no. 2 again and this time have a look at your white mark on item no. 1. If it is still in line between the metal & rubber sections, then it is not slipping. If the the white mark has moved in either the metal or rubber sections, then the vibration damper is slipping and will need replacing. Hope this helps and makes sense to you.