Author Topic: Cooling Questions (Read 8668 times)

phrekus · « **on:** July 08, 2009, 09:09:48 PM »

Well I just did the "mess under the intake" modification to my car and filled the coolant back up following the instructions below. Problem is that I left the car running for several minutes and only steam came out of the bleeder screw and the temps got to 3/4. What could cause this? Any suggestions would be great.

"Bleeding the coolant system
Time = 10 minutes Task=Easy

The engine and radiator are well designed to pretty much self bleed so this is not too difficult.

* Remove the radiator cap.
* Pour in a water/antifreeze solution (as required in your area) so that it reaches the level mark on the radiator.
* Turn the interior heater/air con to full heat and turn the fan to its 1st position.
* Start the engine.
* Continue to slowly add coolant until it is ~2"/50mm above the level mark on the radiator. Keep the level there while the engine idles.
* After about 5 minutes the top radiator hose should be getting hot as the thermostat opens. Once this is warm, loosen the bleed screw slightly until some air or coolant comes slowly out (~3-4 turns).
* Bring the revs up a little and watch the bleed screw. As soon as pure coolant with no bubbles is coming out, tighten the screw with the revs still raised.
* Check the coolant level and replace the radiator cap.
* With fresh water, wash down the area around the front and side of the radiator to remove any antifreeze which may have come in contact with the paintwork.
* After ~1-2 hours of use, release the bleed screw again, bring up the revs, check for bubbles coming out and check the coolant level again.
"

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** July 09, 2009, 07:07:23 AM »

I'll bet it's not bled, or the pump is air-locked. Can you bleed the car on a hill? That helped me the last time. The car isn't that easy to bleed in my experience...I tried three times before it was OK...last time facing up a hill...now I'm pretty sure it's right.

Another member filled the top hose, then the radiator, then did the bleeding. I'll try that next time.

phrekus · « **Reply #2 on:** July 09, 2009, 07:38:31 AM »

I will jack the front up once I get home. While trying last night the top hose was too hot to touch and I couldn't tell if the coolant was circulating or not.

monty23psk · « **Reply #3 on:** July 09, 2009, 08:28:07 AM »

Also make sure that in between bleeds, that the engine is cold or close to it.

romeomike · « **Reply #4 on:** July 09, 2009, 10:27:35 AM »

I'd open the bleeder screw slightly while the engine is cold, and then loosen it further as the car warms up. I'd also have a spare around as the stock part is plastic and can break on you.

If you haven't used your heater in a while, rotate the temp selector knob a few times to make sure the heater core is being opened. While I run my AC through the middle vent, I close that and have the floor vent opened full.

Put your blower switch on a higher setting and ensure you are getting *hot* air coming at you. That's a hint the heater core has coolant flowing in it.

I recently replaced my radiator. I noticed the level of coolant in the reservoir tank dropping as I was running the engine, so keep replenishing coolant during the bleed process. I look for a "four-pack" of hot heater air, no air bubbles from the bleeder screw, coolant levels not dropping quickly in the reservoir tank, and the temperature gauge in its customary spot as clues my bleed job is going well.

phrekus · « **Reply #5 on:** July 09, 2009, 10:48:24 PM »

Well I tried everything you guys suggested and the thermostat has to be broken. I sat in the car with the front jacked up and the heater never bled hot. I went to autozone and bought a new thermostat but I had to order the gasket and o-ring from napa. Anything else you guys suggest would be great.

monty23psk · « **Reply #6 on:** July 10, 2009, 08:26:51 AM »

My heater does not work, not really needed here in S. FL. This it probably the heater valve. If it is broken, it will stay closed and hot coolant will not go into the heater core. You can also test the thermostate in a pan of boiling water. It should open up with ease.

phrekus · « **Reply #7 on:** July 10, 2009, 10:11:27 AM »

I will try that test tonight.

I figured that I am going to end up taking the thermostat off so I might as well get a new one. Before I did the mess under the intake modification the thermostat was working correctly and the car would never go above half way on the temp gauge. Now that I have it all back together it is overheating and not bleeding while I have the front of the car jacked up and I get no heat from the vents inside the car. Now would the heater valve prevent the car from circulating coolant or is it just for having heat in the car (useless in Florida). I even tried to pull the top hose from the radiator and poured some coolant directly into it and tried to bleed it again with but I got the same result of no heat coming from the vents and the cars temps rising while the top hose of the radiator is too hot to hold. Hopefully I can find this gasket for the thermostat housing local or maybe the one I currently have is in decent shape. Any suggestions would be great on trying to get an o-ring and thermostat gasket local or any other options I might have (liquid gasket or using the old one if it is in decent shape). My buddy also suggested running the car without the thermostat just to make sure the system is circulating. Once again thank you for all the help.

monty23psk · « **Reply #8 on:** July 11, 2009, 10:25:49 AM »

Heater valve is just for heat in car. Coolant circulating thru engine will still happen just fine.

phrekus · « **Reply #9 on:** July 11, 2009, 06:22:13 PM »

Well I just tested the old thermostat next to a new one by boiling them and the old one opens wider and stays open at a lower temp. I did notice that one of the bolts holding the housing was missing. So at this point the symptoms are that the engine starts to overheat (doesn't look like coolant is circulating) but it appears that the thermostat opens when tested. I know people have mentioned air locks several times, what should I do to find and resolve that? Also, how do I test if the water pump is functional?

phrekus · « **Reply #10 on:** July 12, 2009, 06:45:49 PM »

Sorry to bump this so soon but I was just wondering how I can troubleshoot this issue further. It looked like my thermostat was fine but I havn't put the new one in yet because I am waiting for the gasket and o-ring to arrive. Does anyone know of a way to troubleshoot this further? How can I test the water pump?

monty23psk · « **Reply #11 on:** July 12, 2009, 07:56:26 PM »

I would start troubleshooting each section. Everything was fine before you cleaned the intake mess? If so, first make sure water is circulation. The water pump can be a pain to remove. If you remove the belt spin the pulley, does it move freely?

Regarding the bleeding process. Are you still getting steam from the bleeder screw? You would have to make sure the radiator is not screwed up. One thing I have done is loosen radiator plug and then add water all the time with a hose at the top of the radiator tank to flush all coolant out. As long as the thermostat opens, you should get hot water at the top hop.

Just in case, make sure you are not loosing coolant into the oil pan. Profile gasket has a defect if it has not been replaced in a long time.

KenC · « **Reply #12 on:** July 12, 2009, 08:03:07 PM »

Turn the temp to hot (fan off though), crack the bleeder valve and give it some good revs. Get the water pump reay going and it's likely you will elimi ate your airlock.

phrekus · « **Reply #13 on:** July 13, 2009, 08:36:05 AM »

Quote from: monty23psk;75181

I would start troubleshooting each section. Everything was fine before you cleaned the intake mess? If so, first make sure water is circulation. The water pump can be a pain to remove. If you remove the belt spin the pulley, does it move freely?

Regarding the bleeding process. Are you still getting steam from the bleeder screw? You would have to make sure the radiator is not screwed up. One thing I have done is loosen radiator plug and then add water all the time with a hose at the top of the radiator tank to flush all coolant out. As long as the thermostat opens, you should get hot water at the top hop.

Just in case, make sure you are not loosing coolant into the oil pan. Profile gasket has a defect if it has not been replaced in a long time.

The car did not overheat before I did the hose mod.

I will remove the belt tonight and try to spin it.

Right now I have the radiator out (previous owner barely mounted it) but when I last tried all I got was steam coming from the bleeder screw till it almost overheated which is when I shut it off.

I should have the gasket for the thermostat housing soon. Before I put it all back together any other tests you guys can think of while I have the radiator out?

monty23psk · « **Reply #14 on:** July 13, 2009, 10:47:06 AM »

If you can have the radiator tested and flushed, might be a good time. But of course it will cost for that. You can try to flush it your self. Also try running water thru it to make sure it is flowing ok.

I know the mess under the intake does have coolant passing thru. Did you remove those or just replaced all the hoses?