Oil leaking from cap, oil level isnt over filled, crankcase ventilator is new- 95 M42

[JoeDellio]

Can you pull the valve cover off and verify whether you have hydraulic tappets (flat and round) for the M42 head or hydraulic rockers (roller/rocker type) for the M44.
There should be a code sticker or a stamp on the head to identify the engine you have. On the E36 and later engines there's a lot of stuff in the way, so the sticker or stamp will be hidden anyway--so ignore that advice.

What # Bosch ECU do you have?

I have never taken out the DME, but I will and get the number. Im almost posotive its an M42, it says right in the door. And its got the dme coolant sensor and gauge sensor in the head, unlike the M44's one. Its just weird that the diagram shown for the M44 injection system looks more like mine.

[JoeDellio]

Different FPR didnt make a difference.

Neither did a different AFM. I put a supposed good one from a 92 318i and the car ran worse, bogging out and sputtering real  bad.

I put in different plugs that were good when I switched to iridiums and the car still bogs out bad, Im gonna swap my old AFM back in and see if this problem persists, but then I still have the original problem...

My next step is Im gonna try and test the O2 circuit if I can figure out how, and see if the sensor is dead, or if its even getting power to it.

[DesktopDave]

O2 sensors should be tested hot...but I'm not sure I'd want to be over on that side of the engine...

You could build/buy/get one of those little O2 meters and watch it real-time.  I've never figured out how to test an O2 sensor because it varies so much with load.  It also isn't used at WOT or open-loop.  So the only time it's even doing anything is when the engine is warm and at idle, part-throttle or steady-state cruising.

It should be putting out about 500mv, varying between 100mv and 1000mv (1vdc) IIRC.  I'll be putting a wide-band in mine one of these days, I'll post my findings.  I'm going to try a megasquirt project and I'll be using the 318 to test stuff.

[JoeDellio]

^ I tested it in and out of the car tonight.

Outside of the car I read its DCV with a torch to it. I could get it to read .1 all the way up to .7 with the torch on it for around 2 minutes, but when I would pull it away it would drop real slow, it should drop at least .1 within 5 seconds.

Back in the car I hooked it up and left it out to ensure the heater was coming on, and it was.

Put it back in and tried to monitor the volts at idle, the car was warm and should have been in closed loop, which should have had the volts jumping back and forth from below .45 and over it. All I got was a solid -6.5? WTF?

Then I checked my temp gauge and it was 3/4!!!!! Just from idling for 10 minutes.  All my cooling system is all new, coincidence with the O2? I dont know. Maybe I cooked it too much and messed something up?

So then I let the car cool down and unplugged the O2 and started it back up and drove it around, no overheating at all, stayed right in the middle.

I didnt think it was possible for an O2 to read that low. To pull a number under .45v means its running lean and the O2 is trying to compensate by adding more fuel. But -6.5? thats crazy, either it was already broken or I cooked it.

Back to the drawing board. :confused:

[JoeDellio]

Just noticed I am losing coolant. Checked it again today and it was down to the little tube that is in the bottom of the resevoir tank. I am 99% sure I am not leaking it, so I must be burning it.

Im thinking maybe thats why I pulled a low compression reading on my #1 cylinder, but I dont have enough knowledge or will power left to link it to my main problem.

I get some white smoke on a hard rev, but my exhaust doesnt smell sweet like it would with a blown HG. And there is no oil in my coolant and vice versa, but I know HG's can be tricky somtimes with no symptoms at all.

[JoeDellio]

Well, Im pretty sure the head gasket is toast or my head is cracked. Today I filled it up in the morning, took a half gallon, then I drove it for 15 minutes and checked it again when it cooled down. It took another half gallon.

It use to loosed about an inch before I drove it up to OH from FL. But the bars leak I put in must have cured it. It wasnt till I seafoamed it that it started loosing coolant again massively.

I have no oil in my coolant or vice versa, but when I get on it or rev it up high it does puff white, and there is condensation in my tailpipe. With my exhaust leaks I could be purging it out also, or dripping it from all the holes in my muffler. Thats why Im thinking cracked head, or a leak in a galley that isnt letting the 2 fluids mix.

Tonight Im going and buying a leak tester and putting it to it. Im hoping this is what plagued all my other problems. Water getting in my combustion, wetting the plugs, not burning all the fuel and in turn running rich. Is that to crazy of a diagnosis to make?

[DesktopDave]

Doesn't seem to be.  I'd hate to hear about a bad gasket, but if you've found the main problem I'm (sort of) happy for you.  I don't think it's a crazy diagnosis, I've seen HGs fail in all sorts of ways.  Open deck Subarus like the 16v SOHC 1.8 are good that way...really strange failures, & they keep running despite them.

Some condensation is normal though, especially when the car is cold.  On crisp mornings up here you can see the steam from every car, no matter how new.

Bar's Leak isn't good for radiators...if you do determine it's the HG, you might want to replace the radiator too.  They're only plastic & aluminum, not the best combination.  Sorry about the SeaFoam suggestion...if it can wipe out Stop Leak I'm confident in its cleaning abilities...but maybe they're too good?

[JoeDellio]

Doesn't seem to be.  I'd hate to hear about a bad gasket, but if you've found the main problem I'm (sort of) happy for you.  I don't think it's a crazy diagnosis, I've seen HGs fail in all sorts of ways.  Open deck Subarus like the 16v SOHC 1.8 are good that way...really strange failures, & they keep running despite them.

Some condensation is normal though, especially when the car is cold.  On crisp mornings up here you can see the steam from every car, no matter how new.

Bar's Leak isn't good for radiators...if you do determine it's the HG, you might want to replace the radiator too.  They're only plastic & aluminum, not the best combination.  Sorry about the SeaFoam suggestion...if it can wipe out Stop Leak I'm confident in its cleaning abilities...but maybe they're too good?

Haha, yeah, seafoam FTL this time. Thanks for the heads up on the radiator, it was actually in my old one, before I made the roadtrip from FL to OH I replaced the whole cooling system after reading all the probs BMW's had with them.

As far as the problem, Ill know tomorrow, its too late for me to fire up the compressor right now. I will actually be happy to hear that its the HG, or even a cracked head. I was to the point where I was gonna give up and just buy a replacement engine. Now I might only have to replace half of it

I will update tomorrow after the leakdown test. I just ended up buying this one from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94190