93' 318is cranks but wont fire, help.....

[topless25]

first off, newbie here so hello everyone.
i have a problem with  my friends car, it apparently died on him then proceeded to fill the cam box with fuel when he tried to restart it, to the point where it poured out the airbox!
i collected the car but did not try and start it, he said it cranked ok but wouldnt fire.
i presumed it was a timing gear fault, it did look to have jumped a tooth or 2 and had lots of slack on the chain, so i set the cam and crank timing up again, fitted a new tensioner and cover gaskets, rebuilt the rest back and di a compression test, 16 bar across all 4 cylinders so no valve damage but now it wont fire, just cranks.
no fuel pump prime either and seems to be no spark, there is power going to the fuel pump relay but not the number 18 fuse for the pump, i have used an open relay that can be activated by hand and the pump will run freely so its not a stuck pump.
i did a resistance test on the crank and cam sensors and got 1.233 ohms on one of them and .503 on the other.
any idea what these should be?
the DME relay switches ok so its not that, any more ideas please?

[DesktopDave]

If I'm understanding you correctly, he opened the oil fill cap and filled it with gas?  Lucky he didn't win a Darwin Award with that...and I'm wondering how it didn't have bent valves or a rod failure.  Liquid in the cylinders is bad bad bad.  I have no idea how that engine was able to save itself.  What did the oil look like?  Are you sure that all the vacuum hoses are clear of any fuel?  I'd figure the car would start with clogged hoses, but I'm not sure.

Crank and cam sensors are close to spec.  I think they spec at 1200/600 ohm.  It's on the board somewhere.

If fuel came out of the airbox, is the exhaust still filled with fuel?

[topless25]

If I'm understanding you correctly, he opened the oil fill cap and filled it with gas?  Lucky he didn't win a Darwin Award with that...and I'm wondering how it didn't have bent valves or a rod failure.  Liquid in the cylinders is bad bad bad.  I have no idea how that engine was able to save itself.  What did the oil look like?  Are you sure that all the vacuum hoses are clear of any fuel?  I'd figure the car would start with clogged hoses, but I'm not sure.

Crank and cam sensors are close to spec.  I think they spec at 1200/600 ohm.  It's on the board somewhere.

If fuel came out of the airbox, is the exhaust still filled with fuel?

not exactly, the car was running then died on him, he did try and restart it but it wouldnt fire, he had the car towed to his house where he tried again to start it but it wouldnt fire, he then discovered fuel leaking from the airbox. this indicates to me that the cam timing was out allowing fuel to be foced back into the inlet manifold, this then filled the airbox and sent fuel down the cam breather putting some fuel into the sump, no signs of damage still with good compression to.
just cant get it to fire up, did the e36 318is come with EWS?

[RidingSimple]

did the e36 318is come with EWS?

Not your 93.
Only build dates of 1/1995 and later.

[DesktopDave]

I can't even guess what would cause that.  The only time I've seen anything like that is a stuck carb float.  The big problem with early e36s is the flooded DME compartment.  Happens especially after heavy rains and high-pressure car washes.  That little plenum drain on the passenger side firewall gets clogged and the ECU does all sorts of weird things.  Check that first, it's pretty common.  After that, I'd start chasing down the pump/spark issue.

[topless25]

I can't even guess what would cause that.  The only time I've seen anything like that is a stuck carb float.  The big problem with early e36s is the flooded DME compartment.  Happens especially after heavy rains and high-pressure car washes.  That little plenum drain on the passenger side firewall gets clogged and the ECU does all sorts of weird things.  Check that first, it's pretty common.  After that, I'd start chasing down the pump/spark issue.

i've checked that area, it was bone dry and all the contacts on the plug we're clean and in good condition, no signs of water damage.
its really confusing now.
i can use a jumper to run the fuel pump but even the injectors dont open or pulse when you crank the engine so the fuel just returns to the tanks via the pressure regulator, everything points to the crank/cam sensors but both tested ok.
can someone clarify how to test these just in case i've missed something?

[DesktopDave]

Yeah, that does sound like a crank pos sensor.  The only way to test it is the resistance reading method on pins 1&2.  I heard Bentley was wrong, it's not 1280+-10% ohm resistance but about half that.  You're reading was .503 ohms?  Double check your reading, be sure the meter isn't reading on the wrong scale (i.e. KOhm instead of Ohm).  If it's still too low, replace it.

[keflaman]

If I were to bet, it would be the crankshaft position sensor.

I speak from recent experience on a couple of cars that the resistance figures in the Bentley were worthless. In fact, the "good" CPS readings were the same as the "bad" CPS. I've also found that true regarding the "017" coils on my COP.

By any chance is there an aftermarket anti-theft systems installed? A few weeks ago my E30 318is up and died on me as I roared down the highway.  I got it towed home and eventually found the fuel relay wasn't getting any power through the anti-theft system. I bypassed it and she started right up. Upon closer inspection of the alarm system it appears water got into the circuit board and shorted it out.

[topless25]

If I were to bet, it would be the crankshaft position sensor.

I speak from recent experience on a couple of cars that the resistance figures in the Bentley were worthless. In fact, the "good" CPS readings were the same as the "bad" CPS. I've also found that true regarding the "017" coils on my COP.

By any chance is there an aftermarket anti-theft systems installed? A few weeks ago my E30 318is up and died on me as I roared down the highway.  I got it towed home and eventually found the fuel relay wasn't getting any power through the anti-theft system. I bypassed it and she started right up. Upon closer inspection of the alarm system it appears water got into the circuit board and shorted it out.

thanks for the replys guys......
i checked the alarm system as its one i fitted so knew exactly where the immobilised circuits we're and i hoped it was that but its fine. i'm going to test the sensors again and possibly fit a new crank sensor as i cant figure out any other reasin for this fault, and the fact the car died on him in the first place.
does the E36 have a fuseable link like the e30?

[DesktopDave]

That's a good question.  Does the battery have two positive leads like on the e30?  Some of the newer models have an inline link in a plastic case.  My e34 has one on the passenger's inner fender.  Do you get a check engine light?  Can you scan for codes?

[topless25]

no CEL and no way of scanning it, does the e36 have a CEL? i've never noticed...

[DesktopDave]

You're OBD-I, so you should be able to do the stomp test like e30's can. The OBD-II reader's code plugs were only mandated in 1996.  Might be that your CEL light is burned out.  Should come on every time you start the car.

[keflaman]

no CEL and no way of scanning it, does the e36 have a CEL? i've never noticed...

I have a Snap-On MT2500 I use to scan for trouble codes. My euro-spec E30 does not have CEL/stomp test ability and I'm not sure about the early E36.

[DesktopDave]

I thought the early e36 is the same system as the e30, until EWS and the '96 changeover to OBD-II.  But I'm not 100% on that, just a theory...the CEL checking is useful but not perfect anyway.

[keflaman]

I thought the early e36 is the same system as the e30, until EWS and the '96 changeover to OBD-II.  But I'm not 100% on that, just a theory...the CEL checking is useful but not perfect anyway.

I meant to say Euro-spec E36. I believe the OP is from the UK or Oz?