Author Topic: What is this Hose??? (Read 6978 times)

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 07, 2009, 11:00:41 PM »

Blip you are very welcome. So no buzzing from the pump, but you have new lines and or replaced lines. I am gonna ask but I kinda think you have already checked. My question is this. Did you check all the electrical connections like the mass air flow meter and the throttle position sensor. Ok lets move on to seeing if you have spark. Remove one of your plugs, then re attach plug and lead out side of engine, turn the car over and listen for the spark plug arc-ing. Also at the same time smell for fuel in the cylinder.

I can probably guess that you have no arc or no fuel. Reguardless if you replaced the FPR lines and such. Hope it works.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #16 on:** June 07, 2009, 11:54:15 PM »

I have only checked the electric sensors, to the extent of making sure that they are plugged back in to where they were before the hose swap. I dont know of any way to check if they are working, other than just making sure that they are plugged in.

ill give the spark plugs a test tomorrow after work. Ill let you know how it goes. Thanks again for your continued help and responses.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #17 on:** June 08, 2009, 07:11:19 AM »

Did you unplug the crank and cam sensors while you were pulling the hoses? If so, check them closely. The ECU will never pump fuel until it sees the engine is turning. If the sensor isn't there, no start, no error codes. They both plug into the front of the wiring conduit on the driver's side of the engine. They look a lot alike but I don't think they can be switched. I'm pretty sure the CPS is the lower plug.

Check out the e36 Bentley, I think a downloadable PDF copy is in the reference section of this website. There is a great chart on page 100-15 that gives you a testing sequence to follow. Very helpful book there.

Get a digital multi-meter too, if you don't have one. The really cheap ones at Harbor Freight (like $4) aren't reliable but will work in a pinch. You can get a decent one at Radio Shack or order online. Trust me on this one...it'll save you years of head-scratching - you can just eliminate possible causes one by one. With how old these cars are getting to be, better to test than guess.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #18 on:** June 08, 2009, 10:16:09 AM »

Thanks DD. I dont believe that i unplugged the cam or crank sensors, but im gonna check when i get home from work. Im also gonna swing buy radio shack to pick up a multimeter.

On a side note, when i performed the hose swap, i never unplugged the battery. I now realize that all the books i have say that you should. Could that have affected it?

Thanks for the advice, hopefully Ill get it running asap.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #19 on:** June 08, 2009, 11:00:43 AM »

The battery likely isn't a problem. I rarely disconnect it, unless I'm doing an airbag. Welders have to pull the connection too.

If you didn't unplug the sensors, I'm at a loss. I can't think of any reason that the car might stop after removing the hoses. If everything is plugged in right it should start right up and run better than before. Even if you left a few plugs off it should run OK...

I had a no-start once that was a wet connector in the AFM harness. I also had an oily/dirty CPS that stopped the car. I'll bet that coolant residue in the CPS can't help an electrical signal.

Did you get any wiring connectors soaking wet? If you did, pull them, spray them out with Radio Shack 'Contact Cleaner' & dry them out with canned air. You can also use iso alcohol in a pinch.

Buy them with a cheap 'meter. FYI, that RS contact cleaner also works for corroded turn signals and computer repair...it'll last almost forever too. Don't get it in your eyes...and wear gloves, it's acidic and burns a little on skin.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #20 on:** June 08, 2009, 11:27:57 AM »

i spilled quite a bit of coolant when i did the swap. when you say wiring connectors, do you mean where the sensors plug in? or somewhere else on the wire? Is there a specific process for cleaning them. I guess you just open up the connection and spray it, and then air spray it?

what am i checking for with the multimeter? Resistance, continuity, voltage, currnet, diodes?

Thanks again for all the advice. i was pretty upset last night, when i had no idea what else to try. With your help i have new hope. Ill post later tonight, hopefully my car will be running.

JP 91iS · « **Reply #21 on:** June 08, 2009, 12:14:29 PM »

There is a small plastic box below those hoses and the intake where a few sensors plug into. You might want to check all the connections there to make sure none came loose / are wet from spilled coolant.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #22 on:** June 08, 2009, 12:30:35 PM »

Quote from: JP 91iS;73251

There is a small plastic box below those hoses and the intake where a few sensors plug into. You might want to check all the connections there to make sure none came loose / are wet from spilled coolant.

do i need to pull the manifolds off to get to this box, or can i get to it with the mani's on? Do you know the name of it, so i can look it up in my Haynes manual to locate it?

Sorry for all the questions guys..

DesktopDave · « **Reply #23 on:** June 08, 2009, 12:38:49 PM »

It's pretty easy to get to. Here's a shot from the driver's side:

Sorry it's not a little clearer. Look at the top center of the picture, you'll see the two plugs for the crank & cam sensors. I'd probably remove that aluminum intake support bracket, then open up the cover plate of the long back conduit while you're in there. Let us know what you find. That conduit contains wires for the sensors, fuel injectors, alternator and some other stuff. I'd want it to be nice and dry and clean.

Yep - you just spray the contact cleaner onto the unplugged connector terminals, not the wire or the sensor. It'll fizz a little, then plug them together wet or dry. You can get some dielectric grease in there too, if it's vulnerable to water. The grease keeps water out and prevents future corrosion.

As for the testing, well that's a whole thread on its own. Read the Bentley manual for some testing procedures. Some things are easy to test, depends on the sensor.

Don't give up...just take a break & think it over. Took me three days and a tow to get my car running, and I've been doing this for longer than I care to remember. It's so worth it when you fix it, feel confident in the car and you're not worrying about every little noise.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #24 on:** June 08, 2009, 02:51:23 PM »

DD, thanks for the help, and taking the time to post the pic. You are completely right about doing the work yourself.. Even though i havent done much, i really enjoy doing it, and look forward to getting home to work more on it. It would be a huge slap in the face to have to take this to someone else to fix my mess. I am determined to get it sorted. thanks again. Ill let you know if it works...

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #25 on:** June 08, 2009, 09:33:23 PM »

bad news. Seems that the coolant spill isnt the problem. I cleaned out both CPS, the TBPS, the ICV sensor the MAF sensor, and still nothing. i also opened up the long conduit box full of wires, and it was dry and everything seems to be plugged in.

I am begining to think that it could be the fuel pump. I dont hear any buzzing of any kind when i turn the key top the half position. Do you guys think that this could be the prob? How would i go about testing it??

DesktopDave · « **Reply #26 on:** June 09, 2009, 06:58:51 AM »

I'd do easiest to hardest on these tests:
First test the fuel pump relay. Common problem, there's a few great threads about that on the board. Make a jumper out of some wire, pull the relay and short the socket.

Then check the crank position sensor resistance on the connector you just cleaned, should be around 600 ohms (a few more good threads about that too).

If they're bad the ECU will never start the pump. Finally, I'd go test the fuel pump with external power via long jump wires from the battery or a battery charger, whatever you have that'll do 12VDC.

If those three items pass, we'll have to start checking other relays. The Bentley also has some similar troubleshooting information.

Blip Bavarian · « **Reply #27 on:** June 09, 2009, 01:25:13 PM »

1- i tested all relays, and they all seem to be working fine. I guess the next step is to test the fuel pump, which i have no idea how to do....anyone have a link to a diy?? i tested them by conncecting a battery jumper/charger to 86 and 85, and then used the multimeter to test continuity at 30 and 87.
basically this....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JB63ebFfgU&feature=PlayList&p=1AD5DDE913BB4B1E&index=0

2- Another question, I turn my key to the half position, and the lights on the dash light up, my CEL doesnt light up. Is it supposed to? I did the stomp test before the hose swap and the Cel worked fine to tell me that i had a vacuum leak. Does the Cel only come on when there is a prob, or should i be able to perform the stomp test even when there is no prob??