Author Topic: Who here drive their m42 on the track?? Overheat much? (Read 9526 times)

nickmpower · « **Reply #15 on:** July 16, 2006, 03:01:36 PM »

on the way home? something is wrong

e9nine · « **Reply #16 on:** July 16, 2006, 03:11:58 PM »

Quote from: nickmpower

on the way home? something is wrong

no kiddin captain

mgold · « **Reply #17 on:** July 16, 2006, 04:20:15 PM »

Not sure if it can be adapted to run cooler lines to it but UUC has its Oil Center cap. If nothing else, its a great place to run temp and pressure gauge lines.
UUC Oil Center

nickmpower · « **Reply #18 on:** July 16, 2006, 04:20:31 PM »

well, water wetter isnt going to help

bavarian3 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 16, 2006, 04:38:04 PM »

E9,

How old is your rad? Have you cleaned (flushed) it out yet or before? Your coolant temp shouldn't be running that high....

As for an oil cooler, as someone said before, are you able to us the 325is one?

e9nine · « **Reply #20 on:** July 16, 2006, 05:53:08 PM »

I used watter wetter after bleeding the rad y'day to no avail.

m20 or s14 oil coolers aren't easily going to work.

I dunno exact age of the rad and the flush isn't too good of an option cost wise.

I will check with my parts guy as well as I think I can get a valeo or nissen rad for around $150 and that's better than getting a flush and buying gizmos to make oil coolers work as it's very evident something isn't kosher. I could also just get a behr radiator as well from around $200 most likely. 3rd option is also to get a bigger rad however it's well known that the e36 rads LOVE to crack the necks on them every so often so I might just stay stock.

Hrmm...

Edit: m30 e34 rads aren't going to work as the coolant tank system is obviously similar to that of m20s not m42s

M42boy · « **Reply #21 on:** July 16, 2006, 08:55:30 PM »

Quote from: e9nine

I will check with my parts guy as well as I think I can get a valeo or nissen rad for around $150 and that's better than getting a flush and buying gizmos to make oil coolers work.

Sounds like a good idea. I think mine's been replaced before I bought it. Looks pretty clean and my temp guage rarely even hits the half mark.

silverblades181 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 23, 2006, 02:46:24 PM »

Well I have a new rad and new thermostat. Tracked it yesterday, I was always between 5k to 6.5k rpm (not chipped) hit the rev limiter a few times in the straight, and at some corner where shifting was not really an option (at my skill level)...anyway, aside from a small oil consumption, everything was normal, my temp always stayed at or below 1/2. I had no way of checking oil temp though. How complicated is it to fit an M3 cluster? The 7k redline (for the futur chip) and oil temp gauge are very interesting. Btw, my instructor said he prefers tracking the M42 to the M20

(he tracks an E30 M3 and a race prep 2002)

mgold · « **Reply #23 on:** July 23, 2006, 03:02:59 PM »

Quote from: silverblades181

How complicated is it to fit an M3 cluster? The 7k redline (for the futur chip) and oil temp gauge are very interesting.

Not sure what's involved in retrofitting the M3 cluster, however, UUC makes a replacement cap for the oil filter called the Oil Center that has connectors for oil temp and pressure senders. I've also seen oil temp senders that are replacement plugs for the oil pan (although I think that's sort of ghetto).

e9nine · « **Reply #24 on:** July 24, 2006, 08:20:37 AM »

Glad to see this problem is isolated to a few of us at least.

I got a new radiator that I have filled and bled properly and it doesn't seem to have cured the problem as much as I thought it would. My other m42 barely gets to the 1/2 mark and this one seems to love sitting at the half mark. This means the car will easily climb past half once again when the flogging ensues.

The e30m3 cluster is almost plug and play save the wire for the oil temp sensor. My oil temp sensor is tapped opposite of the oil pressure sensor and then run to the cluster. The sensor on the drain plug seems a little fragile to me as well

It's a blessing in disguise - this oil temp gauge - as I am very well aware that hot oil and hot water temp is a no-no

and more credible than the stock water temp gauge alone.

I'll take the car for another shake down and probably try a colder thermostat next weekend time permitting. I have a graf water pump and I am almost tempted to get the next brand out there to see if that may help any? The aux fan works on high and low speeds as well. I am thinking a puller fan in place of the fan clutch might be the next simplest approach. I'd run it separate of the aux fan though and manually activate it with it's own power via a fused line.

Needless to say I have been checking my oil and radiator for traces of a frothy mix in anticipation of the worst reality of any vehicle owner -- t3h cracked head mod -- :rolleyes:

mgold · « **Reply #25 on:** July 24, 2006, 10:44:24 AM »

Quote from: e9nine

The e30m3 cluster is almost plug and play save the wire for the oil temp sensor.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the M3 cluster lack a 'check engine' light? If so then its going to be a problem for anyone in California as its required for passing smog.

e9nine · « **Reply #26 on:** July 24, 2006, 12:52:55 PM »

Hah funny you mention that - It has the "Check Engine" light next to the fog light indicator - mine stares at me at idle; I think it's my 02 sensor.

mgold · « **Reply #27 on:** July 24, 2006, 01:00:42 PM »

Quote from: e9nine

Hah funny you mention that - It has the "Check Engine" light next to the fog light indicator - mine stares at me at idle; I think it's my 02 sensor.

That's weird because our chapter president had a hell of a time getting her husband's M3 smogged. Maybe it doesn't work on an M3...not really sure.