Author Topic: engine will turn over but not start (Read 9863 times)

brianw84 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 18, 2009, 02:46:16 PM »

i jumped terminals 30&87 which caused the pump to turn on but the car still would not turn on, i bought a cheap replacement relay at advanced auto which didnt fix it.both lines from the pump have gas in them, the line pointing to the drivers side didnt seem to be pressurized with fuel like the other one though.

brianw84 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 18, 2009, 07:25:03 PM »

heres the whole story if it helps, my father borrowed the car for one day while his was in the shop to go to work, which is at least 100 miles round trip. the vacuum hose on the intake came off and instead of opening hood and fixing it, he just kept his foot on the gas the whole time and drove it home. been broke since.

beemer1 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 18, 2009, 08:23:58 PM »

Yeah replace the vacuum and coolant hoses. It makes a world of a difference once everything is buttoned up.

I would recommend reading "the mess under the intake" thread because you can eliminate a bunch of hoses/problems. Much more reliable and a heck of alot of easier to install everything once you have it apart.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #18 on:** June 18, 2009, 09:04:16 PM »

+1 on that...it might not cure the problem but replacing those hoses will eliminate them as a possibility. Bosch FI systems really work well if they're tight.

Which hose came off? The one to the fuel pressure regulator? The FPR sends fuel it doesn't need back to the tank, so you might not see much pressure in that return hose. As long as gas is going in & out you're OK.

Get a meter and ohm out that crank position sensor. I can give you detailed directions if you need them or don't know what I'm talking about. The computer WILL NOT send power to the fuel pump relay if it gets no signal from the CPS, and it won't set a code either. My CPS failed when it was a bit oily, BTW. Should be about 700 ohms on pins 1&2.

The fuel pump is most likely good...the fuel lines go in & out. The relay is probably good too. You can test it by jumping 12v through terminals 85 & 86. If it clicks it's likely OK. Carry a spare too.

ApocolypseAutoEngineering · « **Reply #19 on:** June 21, 2009, 01:21:26 AM »

I just overcame this problem. Check the connector to the fuel pump it may be calcified. I just cut it off and made my own makeshift connector with two crush connectors. My car sat for 3 months until i stumbled upon it. To test it, make the jump at the relay end and start fiddling with the connector, pulling it pushing and moving it around. If you hear the pump kick on in fiddling there's your problem.

brianw84 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 30, 2009, 07:32:50 AM »

turned out the i got a dud cps so i replaced it and she started right up. been idling a lil rough and low at times. and throttle response seems sluggish, but maybe i just got used to the cars i was driving while it wasnt running.
Thanks for all the help guys

DesktopDave · « **Reply #21 on:** June 30, 2009, 08:35:55 AM »

Glad to hear it. What exactly was wrong with the CPS? Was it bent, dead or just no signal to the DME?

Clean the ICV too...they're another weak spot. Mine's sluggish too...it's an M42 after all...

Pull the plugs, ohm out the wires & coils too.

brianw84 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 03, 2009, 01:41:17 PM »

the cps wasnt givin any signal so i sent it back for a new one. i cleaned the icv, havent ohmd the wires and coils yet. its been idling around 500 when i start it up and will go to the normal 800ish after a bit. sometimes will cut out a few seconds after start up. It most def also needs new hoses which ill be doing soon along with cleaning everything

DesktopDave · « **Reply #23 on:** July 03, 2009, 01:42:53 PM »

Sweet. Enjoy the ride. Aren't those CPS a PITA?

brianw84 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 07, 2009, 04:28:41 PM »

well i was enjoying the drive, until my car started dying, the engine would lose speed, the thottle wouldnt do anything, you could floor it and nothing would happen, it would just slowly die. if i blipped the throttle alot i could get it above 3000 and it would run. it sounded really rough like it wasnt firing correctly. stomp test gave me 1234 which is :
1234 Vehicle Speed Sensor (Speedometer A Signal) This code is stored when no plausible speed signal is detected while driving. The requirements are an engine speed >2500 rpm and under load for more than 10 seconds. Check the speedometer function and the wire to the DME . Also check for codes in the Combi Unit (Instrument Cluster).

the spedometer seemed to be displaying the correct speed, (a few mph off as always) so im not sure what im looking for. any ideas?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #25 on:** July 07, 2009, 05:18:57 PM »

Speedometer pulls a signal off the differential. Doesn't sound right. Is the tach normal too?

I had a similar problem with the MAF, it wouldn't pull over an idle. But your problem sounds different. I hate to say this but it sounds like the CPS might still be the culprit. What's the air gap from the crank toothed wheel to the CPS?

brianw84 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 07, 2009, 06:57:14 PM »

if i have to change the cps one more time......ill measure it and get back to you tommorow. i should be able to take my skid plate off blindfolded by now.

the tach seemed normal apart from nothing happening when i stepped on the gas.
when this was happening the engine sounded like a v8 dragster idling all rough, and a few misfire/backfire. it happened when going slightly downhill, and then hitting a long uphill. i dont know if the angle of the car would have anything to do with it.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #27 on:** July 07, 2009, 09:34:05 PM »

I left that plastic shield off mine. Just gets in the way. I'm not sure what'd cause a misfire like that. Did you check the throttle position sensor? Maybe that's how the DME determines load? Check the TPS before you crawl under the car...

brianw84 · « **Reply #28 on:** September 02, 2009, 06:41:37 PM »

so i finally had the time to put a new TPS in tonite and the problem seems to be cured, but the idle is still crap and it will cut out. I need new hoses and im guessing i need to clean the ICV. Thanks for the help !

brianw84 · « **Reply #29 on:** September 03, 2009, 12:04:13 PM »

Nevermind on the sensor fixing the problem. the car idles a little bit better for a min, then idles like crap shaking the entire car, when i push the gas it doesnt always result in the engine doing anything. Its backfiring ALOT. and turning off, usually right after i back out and take my foot off the gas. more ideas?!