Author Topic: Help my car wont start (Read 6215 times)

JayDM · « **on:** May 11, 2009, 12:02:47 PM »

91 ic

I gave someone's motorcycle a jump start, went for a little drive, shut the car off, and it would not start back up.

I got it to pop start and drove it home.

When I turn the key I here one click.

The battery seems fine, all the electronics work, and the car will not jump start.

I did a little tap on the starter, and then when I tired to start the car, I tried a little harder to start just one time, but failed, and now it's back to the single click

I did a "stop test" and I'm receiving the no faults code.

I don't really know what to do. Starter? That's all I can think of.

Thank you in advance.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #1 on:** May 11, 2009, 12:44:05 PM »

Does the starter work at all? I had trouble with a car after I jump-started another car, it was from the fusible link on the little positive wire from the battery. But my starter would turn over, the car just wouldn't start. I also had no check engine light.

You should hear a click when you turn the key, it's the main and fuel injection relays. You should also hear the fuel pump priming under the back seat, and maybe the anti-lock unit buzzing too. Without the noise of the engine turning over you might only be hearing what the car normally does.

You might also want to clean the battery terminals and have the battery load tested just to make sure that's not the culprit. It's a freebie at Advance or Pep Boys.

Sounds odd that the starter would just give out after a jump. Does the starter spin at all? If you hit a junkyard I think that the '92-on e36 has the same starter. Earlier e30's like the 325 have different teeth so you can't swap that starter unless you change over the solenoid and gear.

It also might be the unloader relays or the ignition switch. I'm not entirely sure how the unloaders work, other than they isolate the starter from the car while it's turning the engine over. I'd try swapping out the relays first, as it's easiest to do. Anyone know which ones they are? K5? K7? I'd leave off the ignition switch until I was getting desperate.

JayDM · « **Reply #2 on:** May 11, 2009, 08:51:35 PM »

The starter does nothing at all. I hear most the noises you are talking about, but haven't listened for the fuel pump in the back. Don't know which relay it'd be, none really just say "starter relay"

I cleaned the terminals, but i'll pull it out and have it tested, ha I'm in no rush to mess with the ignition switch yet.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #3 on:** May 11, 2009, 09:20:14 PM »

You might also have an auto/industrial electronics rebuilder in your area. They might do alternators and other auto electronics. They'd be able to test the starter so that you can isolate the problem and try other things. I wouldn't just go buying one, they're pretty expensive (like $230 IIRC) and difficult to find.

You might also want to try the e30 ETK (electronics troubleshooting manual), it should have a diagram to see what the starter circuit is supposed to be doing.

http://www.m42club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12

JayDM · « **Reply #4 on:** May 11, 2009, 09:41:48 PM »

Thanks for the link, I found a couple deal on some good used ones. I guess I'd be pulling the starter either, so seeing if it works would be a good call

The diagram on the manual is a good help of understanding, thanks for the link. I'll try swapping out those relays to see what happens.

JayDM · « **Reply #5 on:** May 17, 2009, 04:39:21 PM »

I'm having trouble pulling out the starter. Right up or pictures anywhere?

JayDM · « **Reply #6 on:** May 17, 2009, 04:40:38 PM »

I'm checked the CPS and it's putting out 511ohms is that enough to say that that's where my problem is?

DesktopDave · « **Reply #7 on:** May 17, 2009, 08:56:05 PM »

No, a bad crank position sensor won't stop the starter. It'll turn the engine over even if the CPS is disconnected. The fuel pump won't run if the CPS is bad...the DME/ECU/black box won't turn on the pump until it 'sees' a signal from the CPS.

Also make sure that the engine's grounding strap is in good shape - the starter has to ground through the case, to the engine, to the body via the grounding strap. Don't just look at it; unbolt it, flex it, clean the mounting, re-attach it with a little dielectric grease.

I haven't pulled my starter, not sure how it's fastened. I thought it was two bolts through the transmission flange. I'd still try to get it out and have it bench tested.

You could also attempt to test the starter on the car...I'm not 100% familiar with the BMW, but the usual technique is this:
1. Tranny in neutral
2. Disconnect starter's positive terminal (it'll be the only big wire connection)
3. Connect a long jumper cable to the battery positive terminal
4. Tap the other end of that jumper cable to the fat terminal. It should give you a big fat spark, throw the solenoid, and turn over the engine. Don't hold it there for long, you'll burn out the starter and rapidly discharge the battery.

JayDM · « **Reply #8 on:** May 20, 2009, 09:22:38 PM »

I've read three different tutorials that say three different things, I've tried all the shit it said and the fucking thing isn't budging. All say that there are a top and bottom bolt. There are two bolts on the right side of the starter. One is missing, was never there I guess. The other one that is towards the top I removed. There seems to be a third bold on the other side of the starter, but I can't get anything to turn it to even find out what happens if I could take it off. Nothing is moving at all as of now. I don't know what to do, if I pay someone to pull it and then it's not even the starter I'll just have wasted, idk, 300 bucks? FML

Here are some pics I took, hard to actually get any, but maybe you can use em to referance me spots.

Thanks to anyone who replies

Starter from far back

Where the bold I can't remove is

Starter from underneath

My camera's too big and hard to fit underneath there.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #9 on:** May 20, 2009, 09:35:38 PM »

I took a look at RealOEM, looks like a bracket might be hanging you up. I'm surprised that there is only one bolt through the tranny...but there you have it...a bracket holding the studs off the back of the starter. I've given up on wondering why the Bavarians do things their way. When I was there they certainly made up for frustration with their beer.

If you look in your last picture, I'd figure it's that little devil right behind the driver side motor mount. It's on the starter body, not the solenoid housing. I tried to modify your picture but I still can't upload to the site.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AJ93&mospid=47318&btnr=12_0259&hg=12&fg=25

I'd pull the manifold if it's too tight, that's only a like four nuts. You can RTV the gasket back together if you're careful. New ones are only $15 IIRC.

JayDM · « **Reply #10 on:** May 22, 2009, 01:23:18 PM »

No bracket, but I got it! Had to pull the whole manifold, I should have done it a few days ago when I started, I was just scared. Now to get it tested. If they tell me it's good I will kill myself.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #11 on:** May 22, 2009, 09:29:33 PM »

Great job! I'm interested in hearing if it's bad too. If it isn't, I'm sure there will be some other suggestions from the board. I'll be pulling mine soon to remove the TB heater & vacuum lines.

JayDM · « **Reply #12 on:** May 24, 2009, 12:30:15 PM »

Guy described the starter as "destroyed." I've got a good one to put in it in the mail. sweet.

DesktopDave · « **Reply #13 on:** May 24, 2009, 02:20:03 PM »

Keep us up to date...if the starter doesn't do it, I'm sure we can come up with something else for you to check.

JayDM · « **Reply #14 on:** May 27, 2009, 08:47:50 PM »

I put the starter in and it started, but the car is making a terrible grinding noise. I can drive it, but of course I don't even want to start it. It sounds like it's coming from around the starter or at least that area. I don't really know how else to describe it, it speeds up and gets quieter as I rev the engine.