Author Topic: Cooling Prob! (Read 9497 times)

2002maniac · « **Reply #15 on:** July 09, 2006, 01:02:55 PM »

Quote from: zerofreez

Its not the end of the world... when my alt. and water pump belt broke a year or so ago mine overheated to the point where the light came on. Ive driven it 30k miles since then and it couldnt be running better.

When the alt belt breaks all the lights come on so it may not have been as hot as you think. You're right, its not the end of the world, just the end of an M42 :shrug

asubimmer · « **Reply #16 on:** July 09, 2006, 02:03:18 PM »

Quote from: 2002maniac

Congrats. You just f'd something up.

PEOPLE, DO NOT LET YOUR MOTOR OVERHEAT!

I would shut it down if it got past 3/4 on the guage.

we'll see

I had no choice but to keep going when that happened. I was making a delivery for my job. I only have one car and thats what happens. I know the consequences but I had no choice.

I'll know when I take out my pump. But my guess is the tstat went out causing the pump wheel to melt and the plastic rail thing to brake. Thats what I think happened at the moment. I'm hoping nothing else happened but we'll see.

nickmpower · « **Reply #17 on:** July 09, 2006, 05:31:41 PM »

the pump wheel is definalty not plastic.

you should get a compression tester

asubimmer · « **Reply #18 on:** July 09, 2006, 05:38:42 PM »

well I am having a hard time getting the fan clutch off, like everyone. Whats the easiest way to get it?

D. Clay · « **Reply #19 on:** July 09, 2006, 06:03:08 PM »

I think it's left handed threads. I tighten the belt, put a crescent wrench on the nut, push down on the belt, and hit the end of the crescent wrench with a hammer.

zerofreez · « **Reply #20 on:** July 09, 2006, 06:24:56 PM »

Quote from: 2002maniac

When the alt belt breaks all the lights come on so it may not have been as hot as you think. You're right, its not the end of the world, just the end of an M42 :shrug

Your right, all the lights do come on. But my temp guage was also off the charts and coolant was boiling in the expansion tank. It definately overheated, pretty bad. It turned my expansion a yellowish brown color it got so hot. Now I must say, I thought my engine was screwed but all is well.

The DME also bumped the idle up to 2500 rpm to try and cool it down so im sure it almost toast when I shut it off.

Fife318is · « **Reply #21 on:** July 11, 2006, 10:39:07 PM »

Sounds like you fucked up the head by letting it overheat. Warped or cracked perhaps?

asubimmer · « **Reply #22 on:** July 12, 2006, 01:08:34 AM »

well the fan clutch is REALLY not wanting to come off. Good for me I have a milwaukee sawzall and a new water pump on the way. I'll post up some pics of the easy way to get the fan clutch up in the morning, I don't feel like "taking" it off in the dark.

D. Clay · « **Reply #23 on:** July 12, 2006, 09:00:08 PM »

It is definately reverse threaded. You can also take off the fan the clutch and/or remove the water pump from the engine. Then it will all lift out with the fan shroud. Once it's out you can get medieval on it.

asubimmer · « **Reply #24 on:** July 12, 2006, 09:42:40 PM »

The fan clutch payed for its crimes

asubimmer · « **Reply #25 on:** July 18, 2006, 07:51:05 PM »

well there is one bolt in the water pump that is an allen bolt, all the rest are regular. Bad news is that it is rounded on the inside.

Tommorro I plan on dremeling a slot in it to HOPEFULLY get the bolt out. The new pump came in today and I would really like to get this back on the road soon so I can get the turbo on. Does the slot sound like the best way to get it out?

asubimmer · « **Reply #26 on:** July 20, 2006, 03:08:29 PM »

ot in the bolt, covered it in wd40 and liquid wrech for the past two days and I am not having any luck. GUYS I REALLY NEED TO GET THIS OFF QUICK SO I CAN GET THE NEW STUFF ON!! I am really getting pissed w/ my engine. One of the bolts broke off in the engine when I was putting the tstat housing back on, now I can't get the old freakin water pump off for the life of me. I'm about to take my sawzall and cut the engine in half. If someone has any ideas or anything I would greatly appreciate it.

D. Clay · « **Reply #27 on:** July 20, 2006, 10:57:01 PM »

Gasket sealer causes a lot of problems when it is slopped on too thick. It accumulates in threaded holes in cases, etc. and leads to stripped threads in aluminum and other soft alloys. Bolts break off when they are fatigued or overly torqued. Once I had a Hewland transmission case that accumulated so much of that orange silicone sealer that the hydraulic force cracked the case. Bolts can break or threads strip when they are bottomed out on a gob of that stuff but the parts aren't tight yet. What the previous owner and mechanics did is an unknown and sometimes it's just plain old steel/aluminum chemistry. I have learned the hard way to clean threads and lightly oil bolts or use anti-sieze. I put them in by hand before reassembly to check.
I know this doesn't help with your current problem but I share what must have been a moment of sheer joy meting out the punishment that the fan clutch so richly deserved!

bmwman91 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 21, 2006, 01:32:24 PM »

So putting a slot in the allen bolt didn't work?

See about getting a bolt extractor fitting and use it around the outside of the head. I have had some luck with these in the past.

asubimmer · « **Reply #29 on:** July 21, 2006, 09:43:21 PM »

nahh the slot didn't work, I may just tow it to Korman and let them take it out. I'm just tired or screwing w/ it.

Author Topic: Cooling Prob! (Read 9497 times)

2002maniac

Cooling Prob!

asubimmer

Cooling Prob!

nickmpower

Cooling Prob!

asubimmer

Cooling Prob!

D. Clay

Fan clutch.

zerofreez

Cooling Prob!

Fife318is

Cooling Prob!

asubimmer

Cooling Prob!

D. Clay

Fan clutch.

asubimmer

Cooling Prob!

asubimmer

Cooling Prob!

asubimmer

Cooling Prob!

D. Clay

Gasket sealer.

bmwman91

Cooling Prob!

asubimmer

Cooling Prob!