Author Topic: '92 318is idling problems (Read 7178 times)

Bane 318is · « **on:** March 23, 2009, 05:08:04 AM »

I have a problem with the idiling

when you start the car rpm barely reach 1000rpm
and then the car goes out
when I re-start the car, the car works very bad

I changed O2 sensor,ICV,CCV,


if someone knows what the problem is please tell me...

iamcreepingdeath · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2009, 07:48:48 AM »

I have a similar problem. When i start the car cold, it will stall out. After the car warms up it will idle high. I have no idea what the problem is.

Deftones · « **Reply #2 on:** October 24, 2009, 10:14:13 AM »

do you use an old icv or a brand new one? maybe can be the injectors or the maf

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #3 on:** October 30, 2009, 12:51:47 PM »

You can try this.

When you start your car, turn on the AC. That tells the ICV to open to compensate for the load of the compressor. Even if you don't have a belt to the compressor, that is a handy way to know if the computer is actually affecting the ICV at all. If it keeps you from stalling out or your idle raises, you know the ICV and associated wiring is OK.

If there is no change, verify that you ICV is actually working by removing it and watch that the vane inside actually moves when you turn on the ignition. You should feel it vibrating in your hand.

Once you are sure it works, check the resistance of your coolant temp sensor. I don't know what the values should be but if it's out of range the computer won't know what your engine temp is and won't know it needs to compensate.

dkbmxer002 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 31, 2009, 01:00:22 PM »

/is there a resistor the coolant temp sensor goes through? or a fuse? i have an issue with my car having the same idle issues at first start for maybe a minute. at the same time my temp gauge pegs to hot when i turn the car on etc. i checked to see if i had the wires touching in the harness box but nothing... i was trying to figure out if they share a common fuse or something.

Ramblin MAn · « **Reply #5 on:** October 31, 2009, 11:28:39 PM »

The guage sender and the coolant temp sensor are two different things. They are both resistors though.

I have not looked at the wiring diagram, but I'm assuming 12 volts goes to the guage and then goes to the temp sender and then to ground through the temp sender as it heats up. The hotter it is, the less resistance there is so the needle goes up. If it's pegging first disconnect it from the sender and then see if the problem sitll occurs. If not, you mostlikely have a bad sender. if it does you have a short after the guage.

The sensor I would guess is a two wire deal. A reference voltage is supplied from the computer and depending on the temp of the engine the resistance changes so the voltage that makes it back to the compueter is read and used to choos which maps to use.

I know on my SAAB that has L-Jetronic, I was able to recognize the location on the temp guage where the car would start running right. In theory, you could completely do away with the temp sensor and use a toggle switch with one set of resistors for "cold start" and then another set for "hot run" and just flip the switch yourself. Sort of an electric choke. It's something I have always wanted to try because I think the fuel injected motors could go to the "hot run" state a lot sooner than they do. If you ever had a bike or a car with a choke you know even when it's cold outside you only need to use the choke for a minute or two. It takes 5-10 minutes to get to the point where the compueter says the motor is "normal" on a fuel injected car. I've always wanted to see if just telling the computer the engine is at normal op temp when it's still a little cold would help line it out because it just seems like the fuel parameters being used just aren't right when the motor is cold.