Author Topic: New Car: BIG cold start problems (Read 27366 times)

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #45 on:** November 24, 2009, 03:21:36 PM »

Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;76543

Like... it is collapsing? If this happens it will cause the car to bog. Common problem, you have to use still hosing, or use a plastic splice in the middle of the hose that will prevent it from collapsing.

I did this, still not fixed..

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #46 on:** November 28, 2009, 04:36:42 AM »

Picked up a stock ECU, and a camshaft sensor at a Junkyard today. When I swapped in that ECU it gave me a 1244 code which is the camshaft sensor, so I will swap them tommorow and give it a shot. However, The Other computer (with a MARK D) chip in it runs the car much better than the other, however it spits out a coil 1 code 1271.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #47 on:** November 29, 2009, 01:08:13 PM »

Now I swapped in the camshaft sensor.
runs a little smoother, but did not fix the problem.
one ECU spits out a 1444 code, while the other still has a 1271

any ideas?

02 sensor is next on my list.

dwtaylorpdx · « **Reply #48 on:** November 29, 2009, 01:33:40 PM »

Did you carefully check the main rubber inlet tube for cracks, IE take it off and clean it and flex each bellow in the tube looking for a crack?

Dave

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #49 on:** November 29, 2009, 11:36:59 PM »

Last time I checked, a little while ago it seemed okay. but a new Shiny one wouldnt bother now would it?

dwtaylorpdx · « **Reply #50 on:** November 30, 2009, 12:55:51 AM »

I think mine was 25 or 28 bucks at the local dealer...

Mine drove me crazy cause I couldn't see any cracks, when I took it off and sprayed degreaser/cleaner inside it weeped through lots of little cracks in the bellows. You could not even see daylight through them.

Dave

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #51 on:** November 30, 2009, 10:26:39 AM »

those little cracks would cause a huge bogging problem?

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #52 on:** December 07, 2009, 10:39:19 PM »

Made a youtube video showing the problem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu5npniUyl4

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #53 on:** December 11, 2009, 04:56:04 PM »

yOu guys give up on me or what?

I swapped in a new fuel filter not to long ago.
Ive replaced my idle control valve with about 3 that I have seen in Junkyards. POST ICV the Hose seems to be collapsing. So I doubt that all 4 ICV I had are bad.

I have two computers
one with mARK D:
says I have bad coil one. *1271
- I did COP and it still said I had a bad Coil one. They Guy I bought the COP from (ZMblueDEvil) told me that he had been using them on his car with no problems.

2computer : all stock
said I had a bad Cam sensor, which I then Replaced, now it says I have no problems *1444

This Morning I tried fiddling with THE 02 sensor bypass plug plugging, and unplugging, with no Difference. however after Revving the car a couple times, it sortof smelled funny, like stinkbomb/ sulfur or something.
Plug I fiddled with:

checked the fuel pressure When I first got the car, which was good, but not the fuel pressure Regulator, (any info how to test it?)

Is there a distinct way to tell if the ICV is working? I cleaned mine multiple times. I'll post up another video in the engine bay if that helps.

and0pand0 · « **Reply #54 on:** December 13, 2009, 02:34:45 AM »

Well, it'd be the first time I'd suggest replacement of the throttle position sensor on any cable-style BMW, but since you've replaced practically everything else, why not try swapping a known good one in to see if that fixes it? What about plug wires, did you replace those yet? Did this problem exist always since you've owned the vehicle?

EDIT: Also, cam sensor faults can be a sign of timing being off - I would double check this as well (you need the cam jigs and flywheel pin).

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #55 on:** December 13, 2009, 02:44:28 AM »

I Just spent a couple of hours goin over it all...... again....
This time I busted out my manual, and a multimeter to go and test the sensors.

I confirmed that the TPS is for sure Good. and the Coolant temp sensor is perfect. The Air flow meter sparked some question, but it followed what the manual said:
I tested the resistance between terminal one and two, and according to the manual it said that as the flap moves the resistance to change smoothly. So as it was moving along the flap it started at a resistance of 4k ohms, and moved up to 8K ohms as it neared half way, and changed smoothy to 2k ohms when it was fully open. It seems like it would continue to move to a higher ohm, but it instead has more like a plateau sort of reading.

I went over the IDle control valve. The old valve was stuck, so I tried to pry it open with a screwdriver, because I had really nothing to loose, and I just wanted to see what would happen in sort of a destructive way. well, it broke internally, and I replaced the ICV with a spare I had.

In the Manual it says that the ICV should be buzzing. when I had both ICV's hooked up, niether seemed to make a loud buzz. When I did the Screwdriver stethoscope sort of deal i heard a faint buzz, but it was so faint it seems like it could be confused with something going on with the motor. The Main boot was inspected for cracks, and it was good to go, as well as other lines in the system. One Concern was the oil bypass line that hookled up to the throttle body. It is a faintly bigger size hose, but it was tightened down VERY very tight, so that I doubt any air would be traveling through, I cleaned, re adjusted, and inspected some more.

Upon removing the intake Boot I saw that there was some White sludge in the oil. I was thinking to myself. fuck fuck fuck I hope my headgasket is OK, but I checked the oil, and found no coolant in the oil, or anything else. When I was checking to see if any more of that was coming from that oil vent line, and it was Not. even when running the car, no more oil was being vented from the vent.

I also tried running the car Without the ICV and I just got a mad erratic Idle, and still a bogging issue.

I cant say I really made any progress, but I just wanted to check all the sensors to see if they are allright. any tricks to find vacuum leaks If there are any? propane? This problem is driving me nuts, and it really sucks having to take 15 minutes to wait for the car to Fully warm up all the time in order for the car to really Work.

Is there A way to tell the computer the car is warmed up all the way all the time? A coolant temp sensor bypasser or something? to see if it works in that sense?

Ill take a look at the Cam timing this week too.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #56 on:** December 16, 2009, 02:06:05 AM »

ANOTHER VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF3NEp_dnX4

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #57 on:** December 16, 2009, 02:50:28 PM »

tested the crank position sensor 512 ohms ... think its somewhere around 550 is specs.
camshaft sensor 1251
ICV is getting 11Volts but not sure if working
IDled much better when disconnected.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #58 on:** December 21, 2009, 09:48:39 PM »

bump?

richbarn2 · « **Reply #59 on:** December 23, 2009, 06:47:20 AM »

I had the same problem. My Snap-on dealer read my codes and the AFM and O2 was flagged. A new AFM is around 600 bucks, OUCH! I bought a serviceable Bosch AFM on Ebay. Believe it or not, once it got really cold here I finally noticed a crack in my intake bellows that I couldnt see previously. I taped it up as a temp fix until my new one gets here. Completely fixed my cold idle and surging problem! Under 30 bucks from Pelican. If you decide you want to replace your AFM, I have a spare. I would definitely try a new intake bellows before you spend any more money or time. Unless yours is new. It is the flexible link between the AFM/airbox which is solidly mounted to the body and the engine which naturally moves around a bit, especially at start up and shut down. Over time they deteriorate andstart to crack. I couldnt even see the cracks in mine until a couple days ago.