Author Topic: New Car: BIG cold start problems (Read 27393 times)

doitover · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2009, 05:03:01 PM »

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/182xa-check-air-flow-meter-fault-car

This describes a later model AFM but I'm pretty sure it's the same for all the 4 cylinders.

Quote from: fiftytakedowns;67082

how do I check if the AFM is faulty, I would like to order some parts, and make a junkyard parts list for tune up and to fix this problem.
so bump

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2009, 07:45:17 PM »

thanks, Ill see If I can find any of that equipment.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #17 on:** February 25, 2009, 03:05:06 PM »

bump so I can figure out what parts to order, and check

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2009, 01:47:40 AM »

No luck on that wire eh? Do the stop test and get your code...

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #19 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:20:30 PM »

Im confused about getting the code, I think I am doing it wrong.
I turned on the key pressed the gas threetimes, no code. Then I tried multiple combinations of turning the Key on and Off with pressing the gas and got no codes.

ghoulama · « **Reply #20 on:** February 27, 2009, 01:53:52 AM »

turn the key to "on" and push the gas pedal 5 times to the floor within 5 seconds. this should start the code giving. they are 4 digits and start with 1.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #21 on:** February 28, 2009, 01:16:20 AM »

Okay I finally am able to look at my car because I am home, I tried multiple things, First tried looking at the plugs, and they were good. Secondly, unconnected battery and waited to reset the computer.

I unhooked the AFM and it made the problem that I was having 20 times worse.

New related problem also. At about 3500RPM on the freeway occasionally the car will have a loss in power, not quite bogging, but as iff there is no explosion in the combustion chamber. In addition it may have "bounces" in power where the motor will jump a bunch until I have fully accelerated out of it.

during the warm up phase, as it bogs down it backfires if I keep my foot on the gas.

Thanks

Quote from: ghoulama;67313

turn the key to "on" and push the gas pedal 5 times to the floor within 5 seconds. this should start the code giving. they are 4 digits and start with 1.

Tried this, no codes, then I made a fool out of myself by trying other ways I can find out.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #22 on:** March 01, 2009, 12:08:43 PM »

*sigh*

I took it to my shop, and replaced the coolant temperature sensor, triple checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned out the AFM, in addition to attempting to adjust it with the little screw behind the plug. Not much of a help..

Checked fuel pressure, checked plugs, both good.

I am guessing it is probably the AFM, because when we searched for vacuum leaks with brake clean,inake cleaner (the fumes change the idle) it smoothed out the idle when it was at the very beginning of the Intake before the filter.

also plugged in a BMW Diagnostics computer. No help. It had diagnosis for codes except for 10. and that was the number we got. (we plugged the mini computer into the jack right near the brake fluid at the lip of the hood.

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #23 on:** March 07, 2009, 12:37:23 PM »

Bump for justice

tjts1 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 07, 2009, 02:42:41 PM »

PM me next time ur in San Rafael on a weekend. I can take a look at it if you want.
cheers
Justin

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #25 on:** March 22, 2009, 12:02:10 AM »

I replaced the afm did not affect anything. My milage seems down, but not sure what to compare it too and no odo.

Danny707 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 22, 2009, 12:32:39 AM »

Coilpacks

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #27 on:** March 23, 2009, 12:07:20 AM »

o2 sensor, coilpack, or that little wire I mentioned earlier... did you ever check that wire?

fiftytakedowns · « **Reply #28 on:** March 24, 2009, 05:01:15 PM »

I checked that wire, and have plugged it unplugged it, I leave it unplugged though.

Justin Came over and we did some serious inspection, and elminated
Vacuum leaks
Main computer
coolant Temp sensor
AFM

ICV is not buzzing..... when It was unplugged The idle smoothed, when cold, though it became a bit more lumpy.

Also Squeezed the hose going into the ICV, and it did not change anything.

also read code 1244 after inspecting a bunch,but previously it was 1215, but I checked the AFM's were both good.

tjts1 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 24, 2009, 05:19:32 PM »

I was thinking about how you mentioned yesterday that the head has been rebuilt. Maybe they messed with cam timing or rebuilt it incorrectly. It seems to me like you have 2 distinct issues. First, the engine idles extremely rough. I'm guessing new injectors, spark plugs, wires are in order. The valve cover has to come off anyway in order to fix the oil leak at sprak plug #2. That'll be a good time to inspect the timing gear.
Secondly is the stumble issue. I'm guessing thats ECU related. Mine does it too some times.
I have these injectors sitting here on my desk. We can pop those in next time, clean out the manifold and reseal everything. Also need to find a few more nuts to secure the manifold brackets properly.
cheers
Justin

edit:
Remind me that I have an extra rubber intake elbow that's in pretty good shape. The one you have in there looks shot.