Author Topic: Overheating Problem  (Read 3431 times)

rufiox426

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Overheating Problem
« on: January 19, 2009, 03:17:46 AM »
I recently replaced:

thermostat
water pump
plastic water pipe connector
upper and lower radiator hose

did a coolant flush & bleed



These are the symptoms that i have:

1)Upper and lower radiator hoses seem really soft all the time
and only feels hard when it overheats.

2)Radiator is really cold, i don't know if that is normal or not. How would i know if my radiator is good or bad?

3)Engine overheats if i drive about more than a mile. When it's idling it doesnt.

4)When i turn on the heater its really cold.


I need to know what else i should check. thanks.
« Last Edit: January 19, 2009, 03:19:13 AM by rufiox426 »

BazE30

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Overheating Problem
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2009, 04:03:54 AM »
Quote from: rufiox426;64956

1)Upper and lower radiator hoses seem really soft all the time
and only feels hard when it overheats.

2)Radiator is really cold, i don't know if that is normal or not. How would i know if my radiator is good or bad?

3)Engine overheats if i drive about more than a mile. When it's idling it doesnt.

4)When i turn on the heater its really cold.


You must still have air locked in the system.  The main indication to this is cold air from the heater core (matrix).  Just remember that it may take 10 - 20 mins to properly bleed the system of any air.  

I'm not sure if you done this yourself or has someone else done it but I'll say it anyways.

There is a bleed screw on top of the Tstat usually, this should be opened.  Also open the coolant reservoir screw cap too, top up your water now.  Turn ON your ineterior fans to full and at full heat.  Turn on your engine and keep an eye on the temperature gauge, rev the car if needs be to get the heat up.  Keep an eye then on the water level in the resovoir and keep it topped up.  

Eventually water should start bubbling out of the TStat bleed screw, leave it do this for a few mins because some people have a tendency to close it now thinking the air is gone but it may not be.  Watch your temp gauage and don'ty let it go into the red.  When its clear of most air locks you should feel the heat in the interior of the car.

I hope this helps.

rufiox426

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Overheating Problem
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2009, 04:01:24 PM »
bleeding the system again seemed to fix most of the problems but now it overheats when idling. When i'm idling its goes near the red but then i step on the accelerator and the temperature decreases. Whats causing this? Also, i tested my thermostat and it is sticking, so right now i'm not using a thermostat, how will that effect my car?

xwill112x

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Overheating Problem
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2009, 05:02:59 PM »
which screw is the bleed screw on the thermo....

i cant figure my over heating issue out?
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RED IS 91

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Overheating Problem
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2009, 05:39:50 PM »
Quote from: rufiox426;64956
I recently replaced:

thermostat
water pump
plastic water pipe connector
upper and lower radiator hose

did a coolant flush & bleed



These are the symptoms that i have:

1)Upper and lower radiator hoses seem really soft all the time
and only feels hard when it overheats.

2)Radiator is really cold, i don't know if that is normal or not. How would i know if my radiator is good or bad?

3)Engine overheats if i drive about more than a mile. When it's idling it doesnt.

4)When i turn on the heater its really cold.


I need to know what else i should check. thanks.


We need some History.............
You should state why you did all that work .Did you have problems before?
What were the symptoms before you did the work.
The bleeder screw is next to the filler cap on the radiator. How have  you been bleeding  the system . There are numerous threads on proper bleeding.
If you have no heat that is a typical bleeding issue.Once again what is the History.
You really need to get a thermostat installed.
More info please ;)
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16v of E30

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Overheating Problem
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2009, 02:33:54 AM »
my rad had a crack in the expansion tank.  thing overheated just as i was heading out of town on a 10hr road trip. 8hrs to get the rad, and get it in, and $600 later, I was back on the road.

nicknikolovski

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« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2009, 03:57:59 PM »
Is your alternator/water pump belt tensioned correctly? (ie not too loose), but just rebleed it.

pifane

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« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2009, 08:01:54 AM »
Last years, Ive got all these problems.

If you have do all you said, are you sure your fan clutch is okay?

Also, is really overheating or its the gage who told you an overheating problem?

Test with a Laser temp gun on the engine block. I dont know what is the correct temp, but with my car, for normal running at good temp, I got 60-65 celcius.

For my case, my gauge still notice sometimes that my temp is bad...but i hit the dash and everything come back okay lol......

So, also check your cooling sensor.....be carefull, this one is hard to replace because you have to go under the intake....and everyone with a m42 know its pain to go under the intake...

Good luck!


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