Fan Delete Mod

[deekay]

i *think* you could do it with the condenser still in place, but i can't say for sure.

the motor on the fan protruded out past the mounting surface, so i had to make standoffs about 1" long to keep it from interfering with the radiator. i think the condenser about 1" thick also, correct? the fan was a tight fit, and was pretty much wedged in top-to-bottom also... sorry i don't have better info here, but i had my mechanic remove all AC forward of the firewall while i was deployed to iraq so i never saw the stuff in the car.

at any rate, i used to live in seattle. you don't need AC in washington. ditch it and then you know it'll fit!

[4banger]

none of mine hae had a/c for the past 7 years. i dont think my 77 '02 came with a/c. i didnt put the compressor back in my dd last summer. ive got a bit older now and the a/c is nice between stops here in the nor'east with out 100% humidity summers haha

[kasim]

Hi guys, is there a way to wire up the electric fan the way that cristimm did above if your car doesnt have A/C? Ive got a 1992 E36 318is M42 and got the correct electric fan but my radiator doesnt have a space for the temperature switch because it doesnt have A/C, just the clutch fan. Any help would be great!

[M42_Jester]

ok... well i thought we were talking about redoing the fan setup.

at any rate, stu mchenry has thoughts on what to do with cam timing here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/tech/318is/318is.htm and given his experience i know who i'd listen to.

does this relate to the E36 aswell? or was the change in HP between the E30 and E36 M42 because of the tweaks that Stu mentioned?

also, does anyone know if the E36 318iS has the Dual Mass flywheel or Single Mass?

Cheers,
Jester

[cristimm]

A/C models have the dual-mass flywheel and non A/C have the single mass.

[bbarnumboy]

I did the FDM almost a year ago. It is very easy to do it on E36 that have A/C, all you need is new temperature switch part no: 61318361787, and new electric fan part no: 64508372039

Everything is plug and play:

1. replace the thermoswitch
2. remove mechanical fan and shroud and fit the new fan (it fits perfectly), remove the aux fan (the one in the front of the radiator) because it will not be needed anymore and plug the aux fan connector into the new fan.

See pic before and after:



The power improvements are very low, noticeable only on partial loads - it seems that the engine revs freer than before.

Where do you put the new tempurature sensor?  And can AC still be used

[DesktopDave]

I think he's using the original fanstat in the right side of the radiator, with the new fan plugged into the stock wiring harness.

[cristimm]

That's right.

[bbarnumboy]

all you need is new temperature switch part no: 61318361787

I am talking in reference to this Switch stated above. where does this one go and what is the reasoning for replacing this?

[DesktopDave]

I thought it was a replacement for the stock sensor in the side of the radiator, right?

I'd figure that it cuts the fan on a bit earlier to compensate for the clutch fan.

[bbarnumboy]

Would be a good idea.  better peace of mind to keep things cooler. so are the sensor and fan from the hatchback TI e36 model?  using the M44?

[DesktopDave]

It replaces the stock dual-temp termoswitch screwed into the right side of the radiator.  It's far cooler than the stock 91/99 degC unit (61311378073).  I'm not sure all M42's used the high-temp switch, many cars may have the cooler one installed already.  I'd figure mechanics have also used the lower temp switch to repair mildly overheating motors.

I'm guessing the only reason is just to turn the fan on a bit earlier.  With the engine driven fan missing I'll bet it keeps the temperature pretty consistent.  Most importantly, it keeps everything pretty much stock, so the A/C can still turn on the fan at low speed.

[bbarnumboy]

it keeps everything pretty much stock, so the A/C can still turn on the fan at low speed.

I like that, that was another concern i had. i will eventually get around to buying a new ac compressor, since i still have all of the components hooked up for the ac system.  So when i turn on the ac it should still be running the fan full time correct?

I know most ac systems run the fan at all times when the ac is running, to cool the condenser.

[DesktopDave]

Yeah, that's right.  The A/C switch turns the fan on low speed.  It's a nice, clean install.  The only worry I'd have is that the fuse might be slightly undersized.

[Avtovaz]

I have a e36 now with a blown motor, and i have a few questions.

My engine is a factory m42, with a Viscus fan, and on the last rally, a branch has gone threw the bumper, smashed the VF housing, knocked the rad off its mount, and stopped the VF from turning.

Now, when we got to the end of the section, we stopped for about 2 mins and i heard steam escaping somewhere so i checked the temp guage and everything was ok. I kept checking the guage on the way to the finish and it went onto 3, then stopped.

The engine now has no compression, and is dead but when i checked the guage it was still at normal.


So i want to do this conversion, and i need some info on what to do.

So i have a new rad and electric fan like shown above, i think its off a 328 but im not sure. The sensor on the side of the rad is the one for the turning the fan on? That is what i see said before.

Also, as my motor died really due to the sensors not picking up the temp letting me know to stop teh car, is there any other place to mount the sensor for the guage? Is the sensor for the fan ina  good place too?

I heard of a low water sensor on some cars too, is that right?

thanks!