COP Project, it Continues...

[bmwman91]

Two questions, based upon my experience with my setup:
1)  Can you get the connector on the coils with them IN place already, as in if they were bolted down and could not move?
2)  Can you get a socket on the front 10mm bolt head down there/how much horizontal clearance is there between the coil's iron core and the bolt?

[D. Clay]

!) Good news. The connector socket is above the iron ring. Connecting after install is no problem. See pics of coils posted 6/21/06.
2) Bad news. No. If at all possible with a wrench it would still be a PITA. The holdowns for these are going to be a problem.
Question: How thick is the valve cover? Could it be drilled and tapped. It would have be configured so nothing could come off inside or for sure it would.

[fabby318is]

Any update?

[D. Clay]

It's looking good but going slow. There's about six things going on at once. Sould be plug and play kit with A-1 parts ready by end of summer.

[bmwman91]

It's looking good but going slow. There's about six things going on at once. Sould be plug and play kit with A-1 parts ready by end of summer.

Heh.  A-1, eh?  Better find some longer plug boots (115mm won't cut it, need 122mm at least, 130mm would be optimal), unless you can machine peoples' valve covers!

[zerofreez]

The boots I'm using definately wont fall off if you just stick them on the plugs.  I had new plugs for my car waiting to be put on and stuck one of them on my coil boot.  Then I held the whole setup by just the plug and shook it violently.  The boot held the weight of the coil upsidedown and being shaken.

I went back and tried the whole process with the stock 115mm spark plug boots that came with my coils.  Falls off without even being shaken.


BTW what do you mean A-1 parts??

[D. Clay]

The boots I'm using definately wont fall off if you just stick them on the plugs.  I had new plugs for my car waiting to be put on and stuck one of them on my coil boot.  Then I held the whole setup by just the plug and shook it violently.  The boot held the weight of the coil upsidedown and being shaken.
I went back and tried the whole process with the stock 115mm spark plug boots that came with my coils.  Falls off without even being shaken.
BTW what do you mean A-1 parts??

What are the boots that you are using? Could you possibly post pics and specs?
By A-1, I mean Bosch, Bremi, BMW components that will fit without the necessity of machine work. Ideally, installation would only require installing the coil/boot on the plug either before or after the hold down bracket and connecting the factory harness. This may be too much to ask for by itself not to mention that it should look good. Maybe that's why it's not a done deal.

[Tonyb]

Is a performance upgrade expected from this? If not, what's the point?

[D. Clay]

Is a performance upgrade expected from this? If not, what's the point?

The Grassroots Motorsport article indicated a gain of 5 HP at the wheels for new Magnecor wires over the "seemingly" good stock wires. They also note that it is usually only 2-3 HP.
In addition, 4 coils and boots are $160-$180. 4 stock coils and plug wires are $300-$350.
If you need both of these items it can cost less for a 2-3RWHP gain. And you need never buy plug wires again. A lot of upgrades and mods are done when an E30 needs the OEM stuff replaced anyway.
This also begs the question of "Do mods have to result in a performance gain to be justified. How much faster is your car with:
1) $1000+ wheels?
2) All that A.C. Schnitzer pedal and shift knob bling?
3) Smoked ellipsoids?
How much longer does this list need to be to rein in everyone on M42club.com?
How many items on those mod lists  do not improve performance but are part of the E30  catechism. Bilstein, H&R, IE, and the others  are recited like the apostles creed. They are "articles of faith" as much as anything else. May I burn in Hell!

[zerofreez]

There definately is a noticeable difference with the coil on plug ignition.  My "good" factory wires and coils were due to be replaced, but by no means were they bad.

I noticed a much smoother power band, helped the hole in the power band between 4k and 4500.  

My car also was slugish when starting up cold until it warmed up because of the car running in rich open loop mode.  Now the slugishness is gone and you cant even tell the engine is cold and runs smooth.

I think it was definately worth it, not to mention it looks good too!

[bmwman91]

Alright, here is the bracket I am gonna start in on tomorrow.  I think it adheres to the KISS principle pretty well.

[fabby318is]

There definately is a noticeable difference with the coil on plug ignition.  My "good" factory wires and coils were due to be replaced, but by no means were they bad.

I noticed a much smoother power band, helped the hole in the power band between 4k and 4500.  

My car also was slugish when starting up cold until it warmed up because of the car running in rich open loop mode.  Now the slugishness is gone and you cant even tell the engine is cold and runs smooth.

I think it was definately worth it, not to mention it looks good too!

Sounds good!

Can you please give us a list of the part #'s for the coils and boots? Any photos you could post would also be of great help.

Thanks again,
Fabby

[bmwman91]

Alrighty,
BIG UPDATE

I am nearly done machining the coil holding bracket.  All the holes line up, YAY.  Tomorrow when there is light I will do the last 2 holes: the ones that secure all this to the valve cover.  I will also go & grab some M6x16 Countersunk machine screws.  The ones in the pics are just random ones I managed to dig up in the garage.  Oh and I need to trim the coil for cylinder #1 so it will fit in there.  I guess I will be seeing what sweet rewards I can reap from the elimination of those plug wires.

Enjoy the eye candy.