Author Topic: timing chain questions.. (Read 4586 times)

xwill112x · « **on:** October 27, 2008, 08:21:51 PM »

how do i know when to replace the tensioner?

i am a well..."spirited driver" and my m42 see's 5000+ rpms's freqently...

i afraid that the tensioner is going because in cold start ups...it knocks and grinds...sounds like the chain.. and it makes a weird noise when revved around 2k?

does this sound like the chain tensioner?

i just dont want to spend money on a tensioner..and spend the time to fix it (pain in the ass as well)...so i just kinda wanna know what you guys think the culprit may be...

all input/opinions/info is appreiciated..

Nomadic · « **Reply #1 on:** October 27, 2008, 09:44:20 PM »

That sounds like like a timing chain / rail / tensioner issue to me.

The tensioner is a cheap (~$45) and pretty darn easy to replace... do some searches here for alternative replacement techniques.

If it sounds as bad as you are describing.... seriously consider parking the car until the issue is identified or resolved. I'm sure you understand the consequence of a timing failure. (bye bye m42...)

Pull the valve covers and inspect the cam sprockets for wear and compare with another "cam sprocket" photo's in prior threads. Check and see if if the timing marks all line up at TDC. (Be gentle when you tighten the valve cover bolts back down.... they strip very easily.

I'd pull the lower oil pan and make sure nothing has broken loose and fallen into the sump.

You may need the replace the timing chain. If the chain hasn't been replaced on the motor yet.. at 200k you'll probably need guide rails and all sprockets as well. ($$)

Even if replacing the tensioner quiets it down... you may need to start saving $$ for a timing rebuild... Several forum members broke chains with in a few thousand miles of replacing their tensioner.... with catastrophic effects.

xwill112x · « **Reply #2 on:** October 27, 2008, 10:07:00 PM »

hmmm
the cam sproket are good and align at TDC...did that already...
but the problem quiets down after a while..i was thinkin oil pressre issues as well....i havent pulled the oil pan yet though...
but the car is my DD and i cant afford another one..and $$ is VERY tight.

it seems that after it warms up..the "rattling/grinding" quiets down

but i was thinking putting lucas oil addititve...maybe its just dry starting?

Nomadic · « **Reply #3 on:** October 28, 2008, 03:51:12 AM »

I'd pull the pan and replace the tensioner before throwing your money at oil additives.. ... especially if money is tight. If you have no record of the tensioner being replaced... I'd say go ahead and change it.

My m42 started making rattling noises when cold before I replaced my tensioner.. but not grinding per say. Do some searches.... the timing tensioner issues have been discussed in several threads.

xwill112x · « **Reply #4 on:** October 28, 2008, 10:05:28 AM »

so when you changed the tensioner...it fixed the knocking and rattling when first started?

xwill112x · « **Reply #5 on:** October 28, 2008, 04:37:24 PM »

so i bought a lower oil pan gasket and tensioner from bavauto... (alot cheaper than the dealer)

ive already pulled the tensioner...i plan on doing it the "easy" way..

any catches/got cha's/ things i should know when replacing the tensioner..?

cause i really dont want to put a set of pistons and a new head on this car...

Nomadic · « **Reply #6 on:** October 29, 2008, 12:53:09 AM »

I sprung mine before installing it. No way was I going to let the chain flap around to spring it.... It did take 10min of "screwing around" to get enough pressure on the cap to get the thread started.

Some folks suggested filling it with oil prior to install.

nicknikolovski · « **Reply #7 on:** October 29, 2008, 04:40:31 AM »

Since you'll be getting your tensioner piston in a compressed state, its a simple removal of the cap, sealing ring, and piston. Then put the new sealing ring on around the cap and place the piston in the cap the same way the old one came out. Screw the cap back in the head and thats it. Start the engine, let the clatter cease after 2 seconds, then hold the revs at 3,000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds.

Some tips - I made it easier for myself to remove the coils and place them on the rocker cover. Space is fairly limited on my E36 M42. I also disconnected the connector that plugs into the top of the A/C compressor. I would also use a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and then position it in a way that you can just sort crack the cap free. It may be difficult because it will try to slip off but you'll get it.

xwill112x · « **Reply #8 on:** October 29, 2008, 04:53:28 AM »

i appreiciate all the input from you guys..
heres a pic as a present

PROJECT E30

victory alas!