Overheating after replacing rad pump thermo clutch fan

[arnec2002]

I'm pulling my hair out.  I replaced the radiator because the PO didn't.  Instead someone shoved the upper hose over the broken horn and put a fat clamp on it.  I switched the clamp to a proper OEM clamp an the problem showed itself in all its glory by blowing the hose completely off.  Since then I can get it to cool to normal range.  And I have replaced the water pump, thermostat, and clutch fan.

Here's what it does.  I fill it with coolant (50/50) and bleed it until no bubbles.  Put the rad cap on and it overheats to the point that boiling coolant is coming from the heater line into the expansion tank.  I am not getting any heat out of the heater - it blows cold.  Both the upper and lower radiator hoses are hot.  

So is the thermostat defective (paid $50 at the dealer for the proper unit 88*) or is the heater core and or heater loop plugged, or is the head or block cracked?

Also, it does not appear that it is using any fluid.

[nicknikolovski]

Did you fit your thermostat in the correct direction? If it is fitted wrong, the coolant will boil because the thermostat will not open. You may have a blocked heater core? Did you follow this procedure?

1.Ensure the thermostat is in the right way. If that checks out move on to the next step. If it is wrong, fix this then move on. Drain your coolant from the radiator and also from the block drain plug.

2. Ensure all your hose connections are good, then refill your cooling system slowly at the radiator until it reaches the COLD level. DO NOT START THE CAR YET.

3. Then open the bleeder valve on the radiator until you hear the air escaping from the cooling system. You will obviously see the coolant level drop as the air escapes. Once the hissing stops, fill the radiator back up to the COLD level and close the the bleeder valve. Do not overtighten the plastic valve.

4. Now leave the radiator cap off. Go inside the car, turn the heater control to fully hot and turn the interior fan speed to 1.

5. Now start the engine. Do not put the radiator cap back on at anytime while the engine warms up. Stay in the car, rev and hold the engine at just under 3,000 rpm. (With the radiator cap off, this will ensure any trapped air bubbles will be bleed out through the top of the radiator as it is the highest point in the cooling system.)

6. Watch the gauge as the engine warms up and the thermostat starts to open. If the gauge starts hovering past the operating temp (middle) but then comes back you know its ok. If it keeps going towards the red zone, shut off the engine immediately. You know there is something still wrong, (possibly blocked heater core).

7. If the gauge stays in the middle for a couple of minutes, then stop revving the engine and just let it idle for 10 mins. The speed of the viscous fan should change when the bleeding is complete.  Shut off the engine when this happens a couple of times.

8. Check the coolant level, ensure it is not below the COLD. Fill as required. Then refit the radiator cap, start the engine and go for a 10 minute road test to ensure everything is working ok. You can turn off the heater and fan at this point.

9. If it is all ok, let the engine cool down and then the next morning when completely cold, check the coolant level. You may notice it has dropped below COLD again. This is because the water in the coolant has contracted. Add water to the COLD mark and thats it.