Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up

Author Topic: Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up  (Read 24160 times)

twright

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #60 on: November 11, 2008, 05:47:34 PM »
Has anybody tried a new water temperature sender?  (The front one that goes to the engine computer.)

I have one ordered, and I let you know how it goes.
« Last Edit: November 11, 2008, 05:52:18 PM by twright »

bearsbmw

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #61 on: November 11, 2008, 05:56:58 PM »
Quote from: twright;60469
Has anybody tried a new water temperature sender?  (The front one that goes to the engine computer.)

I have one ordered, and I let you know how it goes.


yes car performance went up a little when engine warmed up

bearsbmw

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #62 on: November 11, 2008, 07:16:20 PM »
Injectors are not my problem... damn!

AcSchnitzer318is

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #63 on: November 11, 2008, 10:56:37 PM »
^LOL... that guy doesn't sound very helpful.  I'd reply back with "thanks for nothing."

Tried new temp sensor, no help.  Tried fuel pressure gauge, tested fuel system... no help.  

My search... continues.


"A good memory for quotes combined with a poor memory for attribution can lead to a false sense of originality."

twright

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Temp Sensor? NO.
« Reply #64 on: November 12, 2008, 04:40:52 PM »
Unfortunately, a new temp sensor did not help the problem.:(

bearsbmw

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #65 on: November 12, 2008, 05:54:23 PM »
I found my problem at a intake gasket ... good luck for the rest of you

roundel318

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #66 on: November 13, 2008, 12:06:46 PM »
I was just reading over the pages of this post and thinking about a couple things.
I read Burnall was having problems when hitting the gas, while I think it will help your idle by replacing your ICV, I suspect the rest of your problem could be your crank position sensor (this is what ignition is based upon in our motronic 1.7, i THINK, not 100%) however I had hopes that your fusebox underside fix was going to be the cure.
Also, Mark D (EAT in Canada) has a service that does ECU fixing, I did not see ours on his list, but who knows.
I had a weird missfire issue about a year ago, car would start cold, warm up and run well.
After an hour of running (seemingly long time) the engine would missfire at ~4600 rpm, almost seeming like hitting fuel cutoff/engine speed limiter.
As long as you didnt rev that high, it would be fine, no matter of the throttle position.
Over a few minutes more time, the missfire would drop to ~3500 start doing it at that RPM as the engine was warm.
Replaced: Plugs, Wires, tested all 4 coils. No fix, then replaced camshaft pos sensor, this seemingly fixed it for about two days, then it was back.
FINALLY, RESEATING my ECU connector in the glovebox (just taking it off, and putting it back on) fixed the problem.
Strange world here :)

twright

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Mine does it, too.
« Reply #67 on: November 19, 2008, 10:07:26 AM »
Ok, I have now declared that this problem has gotten personal.  This means that I have the symptoms and I have been unable to fix it.  It also means that I'm pissed and I'm not giving up till its fixed.:mad:

Here are my symptoms:

1.) Car runs great except for a start of the engine when the engine is warm.

2.) After a cold start, the car runs great.

3.) If you start the engine when it is warm, the engine will idle great, but if you try to move, it misses badly and may stall.  It will do this for approximately 20-40 seconds and then it will run great.

Here what I know:

1.) It's not the spark plugs (New)
2.) It's not the fuel pump.  (New, and it maintains 43 psi, while the rough running is occurring.)
3.) It's not the fuel pressure regulator.  (See 2.) above.)
4.) It's not a vacuum leak.  (All new hoses)
5.) The event is not caused by too much fuel.  (I have shut the engine down when the rough running occurs and pulled the plugs.  They are dry.)
6.) It's not the engine temperature sender.  (New)
7.) The coils have the correct resistance.


Here's what I need help on:

Something is turning off the fuel injectors intermittently to cause the rough running.  So what can cause this to happen?  (i.e.  engine thinks its in a overspeed condition and cuts ignition, lose power to ecu, etc.)

Ok, what's turning off the injectors?
« Last Edit: November 19, 2008, 10:14:56 AM by twright »

AcSchnitzer318is

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #68 on: November 20, 2008, 08:28:11 AM »
Don't know what's turning off your injectors... but here's what I have changed in my quest for a normal warm start.  Maybe it will help you diagnose.  Keep us updated.

1. ICV (replaced)
2. Vacuum Leaks (did TB heater delete and replaced hoses)
3. o2 Sensor (replaced)
4. Plugs & Wires (replaced as part of maintenance)
5. Fuel Injectors (mustang 19#)
6. Exhaust Header Gasket (had a leak)
7. AFM (replaced)
8. Engine Temp Sensor (replaced)
9. Throttle Position Sensor (replaced)
10. ECU swapped (known good unit)

Also had the engine smoke tested and fuel pressure checked.  Both turned up good.  In the other thread there is a possible fix by replacing the check valve at the fuel tank?  I may try that one since the engine only did it AFTER my motor swap.  This leads me to believe it is something external to the engine entirely.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2008, 08:30:16 AM by AcSchnitzer318is »


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roundel318

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ideas
« Reply #69 on: November 20, 2008, 08:44:34 AM »
The check valve is a good idea, but wasnt that for a different problem?
Not like it couldn't carry over though :)
Is this more like a fuel or control ignition (not spark) issue?
Have we popped and swapped the crank position sensor and coolant temp sensor?

twright

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #70 on: November 20, 2008, 05:07:52 PM »
Has anybody capped off the  the fuel tank purge valve to see if its leaking?

Burnall4

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #71 on: November 24, 2008, 03:39:04 PM »
I am replacing the injectors/FPR/Switching the car to a dual fuel pump (I don't know the specifics but my buddy has it in his 318) and changing out the ICV this weekend, i will see where that leaves me....hopefully not on the side of the road.
Current BMW: Looking
Current Truck: 06 Chevy 1500 4x4 Crew Cab
Current Motorcycle: 2005 CBR 600rr (race bike)
1991 318is sold
1990 325is sold

AcSchnitzer318is

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #72 on: November 24, 2008, 11:46:44 PM »
^As always keep us updated.

I unfortunately have been too busy with work to try any other possible solutions...


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SnPaC

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similar problem and It is getting worse
« Reply #73 on: November 26, 2008, 05:59:05 AM »
Not sure if the problem I'm experiencing is the same as those here, but here it goes; I started noticing a slight "stumble" while driving at highway speeds, where power was lost momentarily.  Some days were worse than others.  It normally would stay idling, but a couple times it would stall, but it is not always steady .  Today, it got really bad.  The stumble or hesitation was almost occurring all the time and I am now seeing the check engine flicker on then go out multiple times, along with a loss of power.  This is a new problem in the last month or so, but it has gotten really worse.  The plugs are newish (~10K), O2 new, new Cat.

I plan on checking the plugs and wires, and coils (although my recollection is that they are pretty hard to test conclusively).  I plan on checking the plugs and wires, and coils (although my recollection is that they are pretty hard to test conclusively).  The problem was so bad the Am that the car is barely drivable…

Any ideas?  Thanks!

318isfolife

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Car Running in "Limp Mode" on Start Up
« Reply #74 on: November 26, 2008, 03:03:06 PM »
same problem i have been dealing with it for about a year its detonation upon start up but i can't figure it out i have not really tried to extensively to fix it but i have replaced the ICV and vacuum lines. and tested the m.a.f. if i disconnect this connector that is under the plastic piece against the fire wall that covers your harness the problem stops but the car has no power. the connector is a single wire black with gray tracer or gray with black tracer can't remember the colors