Author Topic: yay for new brakes  (Read 5419 times)

ducatipaso

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yay for new brakes
« on: September 06, 2008, 03:33:51 PM »
even if they're OEM spec

Brembo Replacement Rotor Front fitment for 1991 BMW 318i    In Stock    2    $37.00    $74.00
Brembo Replacement Rotor Rear fitment for 1991 BMW 318i    In Stock    2    $27.00    $54.00
Akebono Euro Ceramic Pads Front fitment for 1991 BMW 318i    In Stock    1    $67.00    $67.00
ATE Original PremiumOne Pads Rear fitment for 1991 BMW 318i    In Stock    1    $47.00    $47.00
Shipping Sub-Total:    $37.32
Sales Tax:    $0.00
Excise Tax:    $0.00
State Waste Tire Fund Fee:    $0.00
Order Total:    $279.32

now to order some new wear sensors

Matt-B

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« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2008, 10:34:05 PM »
Sweet, when I pay my credit card off, i want to get slotted and stock bits other wise
/// Shift and e-brake boots, MANY KINDS///
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ducatipaso

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« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2008, 12:20:47 AM »
having been there with slotted rotors on VWs and BMWs both, dont waste your money. In fact, TireRack has a very nice comment on slotted/drilled rotors:
 
"Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.

While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable."
 
what's this tell you? They're not a performance upgrade.
At the HUGE differential in price:
 
$74/pair for plain
$183 for slotted or drilled

why? that's more than 2x the price!

batsbats

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« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2008, 01:01:46 AM »
brembo blanks ftw.  Drilled/slotted look nice, but I would only get well known manufactored ones.

while on the topic of brakes, anyone know a cheap place to get a new Master Cylinder?

Matt-B

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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2008, 02:06:34 AM »
rockauto.com /\


Mike, you changed my opinon, and blanks on the track are fine once and a while :D
/// Shift and e-brake boots, MANY KINDS///
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ClodKing

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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2008, 01:00:58 PM »
I wish read this earlier...

I just got my ATE slotted front rotors, and Zimmerman drilled rears. Crap, next time it'll be blanks.

AcSchnitzer318is

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« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2008, 01:12:17 AM »
I always run slotted/drilled... but only for appearance.  Would NEVER run them on a track unless they were like from a big brake kit or something that was ludicrously expensive.


"A good memory for quotes combined with a poor memory for attribution can lead to a false sense of originality."

ducatipaso

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« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2008, 08:14:06 PM »
yay stuff shipped today! pix to follow when the pkg arrives!

HMS_Tim

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« Reply #8 on: September 09, 2008, 07:34:25 AM »
In general it is a good idea to stay away from drilled and slotted rotors. when on the track.  As you all know.
A factory finish will be more effective in dissipating the heat as it has more material in a smooth pattern.  Cross drilling creates areas of the rotor that heat and cool at different rates causing premature cracks and warping.  Slotted rotors are a better option over cross drilled on the track.  They have more material than drilled, help keep the pad clean and keep it from developing too much pad deposit on the rotor.
Brake componies like Performance friction have a dimpled surface rotor. (the dimples are smaller than 1/8"  It is nice because it has enough material to reduce heat damage but aid in keeping the pads clean.  I think they even have slotted rotors too. (about six slots around each side of the rotor)  You can use a slotted or dimpled rotor you just need to be sure that it is not for visual effect and simply for function.  You want to keep as much material as possiple on the rotors.

I am running frozen rotors with a smooth finish in front and I hate to say it, but zimmerman cross drilled in the rear.:o  Performance friction 97 compound all the way around.  I have yet to heat up the rears on the track so far.  I will use the drilled for now because they were super cheap and probably buy frozen rotors smooth once I have to.  The car is light and is not the fastest out there so I am not really using the brakes as much as others are.  I just turn and pray!

ducatipaso

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« Reply #9 on: September 09, 2008, 10:58:37 AM »
yup... and I'm just a spirited street driver so quality plain rotors are all I need. Stuff should arrive today!!!

ducatipaso

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« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2008, 10:10:42 PM »
hehe there's a box in my entryway

EN318isPDX

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yay for new brakes
« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2008, 10:38:39 PM »
Quote from: ducatipaso;56492
hehe there's a box in my entryway


Turns out they are coupe only model brakes!! Guess they gonna have to go on my car!! Oh wait I need a new LSD not brakes i already did mine! :D
WTB 97+ M3 Front Strut Assembly and 97+ M3 Control Arms (caster is important)
WTB Driver side Diamondschwartz fender PST

ducatipaso

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« Reply #12 on: September 10, 2008, 11:28:57 PM »
did you figure out what what bork on your car?

Matt-B

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« Reply #13 on: September 11, 2008, 03:32:42 AM »
is Bork anything like a spork, or a broken fork?
/// Shift and e-brake boots, MANY KINDS///
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EN318isPDX

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« Reply #14 on: September 11, 2008, 10:24:57 AM »
Quote from: ducatipaso;56499
did you figure out what what bork on your car?


Sounds like a star trek term... Bork me up scotty! I broke the LSD it looks like a grenade went off inside my diff
WTB 97+ M3 Front Strut Assembly and 97+ M3 Control Arms (caster is important)
WTB Driver side Diamondschwartz fender PST