Author Topic: Twitchy little guages. (Read 4840 times)

quinn11m20 · « **on:** August 23, 2008, 01:15:19 PM »

Hey check this out. This is for those of you with your coolant and fuel guage that like to "dance". My coolant guage usually rode above the half way mark and twitched to the three-quarter mark. Well I found out that if you replace the SI board (service interval) that it stops. I replaced mine yesterday. My oil and inspection lights are off and my guages read where they are supposed to. I purchased the board from Bavarian Autosport for $174 with a $60 core charge. I am truly happy. I hated long drives with my coolant temp reading past the three-quarter mark, scary to say the least. Now with the board replaced, I can trust my instruments. My coolant now reads just below half. And I believe that my fuel guage is reading correctly as well. http://www.bavauto.com is the web sight. I use these guys all the time. Good luck.

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2008, 05:01:07 PM »

For those of you who don't want to replace the whole board, you can just replace the batteries. I did this and it fixed my gauge and SI light issues. Inspect ur board for damage though in case u really do need the whole board.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2008, 05:54:15 PM »

OHH! the batteries on my old board were lithium. CR123's to be exact, the photo cell battery. But the batteries on the new board were AA rechargeable. SO ACschnitzer is correct as well because they both produce the same volts and amps. Thank you AC.

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2008, 07:05:22 PM »

No problem... mine were also CR123 (sanyo?) batteries. I soldered wires onto the si board and then ran a battery holder under my dash so I don't have to deal with that problem ever again. Just replace the 2 batteries in the holder

I know I'm not the first to do this, but it's cool no matter where it started.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 28, 2008, 03:46:16 PM »

Shit I would of never though of that.

Siksnot · « **Reply #5 on:** August 29, 2008, 03:30:02 PM »

Here is a great link regarding this.... I hope it helps.
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw/bmw-3-series-e30/5836189-1.html

txleadfoot · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2008, 01:56:20 PM »

My temp gauge jumps between 1/2 & 3/4 mark, depending on me slapping the dashboard. No other malfunctions in the cluster. So, a new battery would fix this and somehow lower the coolant temp reading?

Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;55359

For those of you who don't want to replace the whole board, you can just replace the batteries. I did this and it fixed my gauge and SI light issues. Inspect ur board for damage though in case u really do need the whole board.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 28, 2008, 12:23:48 PM »

No it will stop the guage from reading incorrectly. Example: one second it reads 1/2 and the next second it reads just shy of 3/4. So replacing your SI board or the batteries on the SI board will stop the jumping around of the guage and give you the proper reading. K.

txleadfoot · « **Reply #8 on:** September 29, 2008, 11:18:27 PM »

Gotcha, thanks. Now to find the SI board remote battery writeup.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 30, 2008, 04:49:49 PM »

AcSchnitzer318is I think had the write up or knows how to do the battery thing. I just ordered the board from Bavarian Autosport and changed the board out right. Unfortunately, recently my temp guage is twitching. Its doing the same as before. So now I am going to move on to changing the temp. sending unit. and move on from there. I thought changing the board would of helped me, It did but only temporarly. Good luck txleadfoot. Tony.

quinn11m20 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 30, 2008, 04:54:38 PM »

Make sure you disconnect the battery before you do any electrical work. K You can possibly short the board out. Again good luck.

Rogan · « **Reply #11 on:** November 01, 2008, 11:52:26 AM »

my temp gauge would 'flick' between 3/8 and 5/8.. about once every 20-30 sec, back and forth..
When I took the cluster out, I found the brass 8mm nut on the back of the gauge to be loose. tightened it, and the problem has yet to return..