Warm start stall

[AcSchnitzer318is]

Next time my car does it, i'll jump out and try to push/tighten the the brake vacuum host to the booster and see what happens.

I just tried it... didn't do anything for me.  I think if the problem is a vacuum problem with the booster, it's internal and only way to fix is to replace the booster.  No way to confirm this is the actual problem though, or that it is even a problem.  Ahhhh how I love troubleshooting hard to find problems.

[nicknikolovski]

A faulty brake booster will not cause stalling of the engine. Has anyone tried or checked anything else regarding the stalling problem when hot?

[AcSchnitzer318is]

A faulty brake booster will not cause stalling of the engine. Has anyone tried or checked anything else regarding the stalling problem when hot?

Sure have, below is everything I've checked/replaced

1. ICV (replaced)
2. Vacuum Leaks (did TB heater delete and replaced hoses)
3. o2 Sensor (replaced)
4. Plugs & Wires (replaced as part of maintenance)
5. Fuel Injectors (mustang 19#)
6. Exhaust Header Gasket (had a leak)
7. AFM (replaced)
8. Engine Temp Sensor (replaced)
9. Throttle Position Sensor (replaced)
10. Fuel Pressure (40-50lbs)
11. Smoke tested (ok)

[JL@autotechnic]

Im having the same issue guys.... I really havent looked into it much. For me it runs great under cold starting conditions. As soon as the motor is shut off and restarted it idles rough and you can smell the massive rich condition... All I do it give the car full throttle under load a few times and it fixes itself.  I have replaced the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor.  It all started happening after I replaced the alternator and fuel pump.  Im going to make sure the evap system is breathing like it should. Its rather annoying.

[sports.racer]

Mine seems to happen more on hotter days and I too notice the fuel smell. Sometimes it just stumbles and idles very poorly, other times the engine will die but start right up and run fine.

Sometimes the check engine light will come on when it is stumbling, that usually only happens when the engine goes on to die. The CEL never stays on and is always off on the restart.

[kowalski]

ok, i put this in the other thread, but i thought it should be in both threads.

as we all know, the m42 vibrates quite a bit.... wires don't like to vibrate.

has anyone tried replacing their fuel pressure regulator?

Fixed my similar problems to your guys.

my point is, check all of your plugs, pull the rubber sleeve back on your plugs, and check for loose or broken wires, a multi meter works good too. I have experienced this on 3 separate occasions.

[kowalski]

My fuel pressure is 41 psi steady,

your fuel pressure should not be wavering around at idle...

[kowalski]

Mine seems to happen more on hotter days and I too notice the fuel smell. Sometimes it just stumbles and idles very poorly, other times the engine will die but start right up and run fine.

Sometimes the check engine light will come on when it is stumbling, that usually only happens when the engine goes on to die. The CEL never stays on and is always off on the restart.

have you done the stomp test to see which code it gives you??

[AcSchnitzer318is]

Kowalski... betting the only code that comes up is 1222.  My fuel pressure is 40-50psi according to the shop that tested it for me (specializes in BMW's taken all 5 of my bimmers there for hard to find problems and this is the first time they are stumped).  They want to check the timing.  I don't think that's the issue though.  

As I said in the other thread... I will replace the FPR (for peace of mind), and recheck my new plugs/wires.  Will let you guys know if I find anything.

If we keep at it... one of us HAS to figure out the culprit.  LOL there are now 10+ ppl suffering from it on this board alone.

[kowalski]

Kowalski... betting the only code that comes up is 1222.  My fuel pressure is 40-50psi according to the shop that tested it for me (specializes in BMW's taken all 5 of my bimmers there for hard to find problems and this is the first time they are stumped).  They want to check the timing.  I don't think that's the issue though.  

As I said in the other thread... I will replace the FPR (for peace of mind), and recheck my new plugs/wires.  Will let you guys know if I find anything.

If we keep at it... one of us HAS to figure out the culprit.  LOL there are now 10+ ppl suffering from it on this board alone.

while your at it you should tel the 4 wire plug for the TPS, pull back the rubber and inspect each wire and connector.

[AcSchnitzer318is]

^Will do... but I can't see it being wiring.  Doesn't happen over bumps or anything like that.  Only on initial starts.  My main engine ground is a good bit worn... will replace that, but not holding my breath.  

Haven't had time to check out the other suggestions yet... I am remodeling a bath and bedroom in our house preparing for a sale.  Hasn't left me much time to work on a problem with the car that is basically just an annoyance.  LOL albeit a VERY big annoyance.

[kowalski]

let me know when your done.

If its ONLY doing it when warm, you should test the resistance of your cam and crank sensors when warm. they have a cold test rating, and a warm test rating...

[Jak318]

I have the same problem and have replaced the FPR...

[kowalski]

I have the same problem and have replaced the FPR...

this problem can be caused by a multitude of things, its something that is on its way to failing.

My suggestion is to test everything thats free, get a multi meter and check all your sensors and wiring, then move on to other things.

[Jak318]

this problem can be caused by a multitude of things, its something that is on its way to failing.

My suggestion is to test everything thats free, get a multi meter and check all your sensors and wiring, then move on to other things.

I have tested and replaced pretty much everything thats been listed in this thread.

I wish it would just fail so i can replace it already.