Author Topic: Warm start stall  (Read 17324 times)

EN318isPDX

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Warm start stall
« Reply #15 on: August 18, 2008, 11:52:27 AM »
Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;55077
"Why aren't you pulling out already!!!!????";)


LOL i get the same thing. I have replaced tons of shit and have fixed up my idle issue but its still present. I am pretty sure its either the coolant sensor or the cam sensor but people freak out when my car is running in that nice front row spot and im not pulling out forever. sometimes i say a little extra longer just so they move on to the next spot than i pull out.
WTB 97+ M3 Front Strut Assembly and 97+ M3 Control Arms (caster is important)
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nicknikolovski

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Warm start stall
« Reply #16 on: August 19, 2008, 04:50:19 AM »
Has anyone tried swapping their Engine ECU. Test all ECU inputs first, if they check out, replace/swap the ECU.

AcSchnitzer318is

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Warm start stall
« Reply #17 on: August 19, 2008, 11:20:58 AM »
^I've replaced the ECU... but have not tested the pinouts on the harness.  Changing ECU's didn't help.  

I want to try the cam sensor... only sensor I have not replaced yet... lol.  The crank sensor wouldn't have any effect would it?  Oh and do our cars have a "Thermal Time Switch".  That's what a couple of friends said would be worth looking into.


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EN318isPDX

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Warm start stall
« Reply #18 on: August 19, 2008, 11:56:17 AM »
Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;55157
^I've replaced the ECU... but have not tested the pinouts on the harness.  Changing ECU's didn't help.  

I want to try the cam sensor... only sensor I have not replaced yet... lol.  The crank sensor wouldn't have any effect would it?  Oh and do our cars have a "Thermal Time Switch".  That's what a couple of friends said would be worth looking into.


I don't think i've ever heard of a thermal time switch in a M42, i'm pretty sure our ECU is smart enough to figure out what the engine is hot and when its cold( no cold start). not 100% on that but 99%, get a new cam sensor off pelican and let me know, either way i'm gonna order myself a new cam sensor just because i want my car to run like it did in 1991
WTB 97+ M3 Front Strut Assembly and 97+ M3 Control Arms (caster is important)
WTB Driver side Diamondschwartz fender PST

AcSchnitzer318is

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Warm start stall
« Reply #19 on: August 23, 2008, 04:57:44 PM »
Bump... you try that cam sensor?  I haven't had the time/extra cash to order one yet.


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nicknikolovski

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Warm start stall
« Reply #20 on: August 24, 2008, 08:00:24 AM »
Ok, so it seems alot of guys have changed nearly every sensor on the engine with no result. Try looking for any breaks in the engine wiring harness, also check engine earth straps. Check wiring for short circuits.

I remember working on OBD-II vehicle that had a warm start stalling issue, it ended up being a blocked carbon canister. It may not be related in this case but hey it could be worth ltaking a look at.

AcSchnitzer318is

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« Reply #21 on: August 24, 2008, 11:08:06 AM »
^I was wondering if the carbon canister could be causing any kind of problem.  It has to be something external to the engine.  I talked to the original owner of the motor I bought and he said it had no problems.  Then talked to the dealer I bought the car from and he said the old motor exhibited the same starting issues.  After 2 mins it ran fine.  

So it has to be something external to the engine that didn't get swapped in.  IE:  brake booster vacuum (brakes feel a tad weak, but I'm coming from an e46), carbon canister, wiring harness, coils, or plug wires.  Any suggestions on where to start?


"A good memory for quotes combined with a poor memory for attribution can lead to a false sense of originality."

nicknikolovski

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« Reply #22 on: August 25, 2008, 04:16:09 AM »
I would first look into the wiring harness. Inspect wiring for damage, short circuits etc. Also if it was throwing up a oxygen sensor fault, inspect the wiring and the routing of the wiring from the sensor to the ecu. Then after that inspect all vacuum lines, breather pipes, and look for any air/vacuum leaks particularly around the intake manifold.

achtungE30

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« Reply #23 on: August 26, 2008, 02:45:21 PM »
Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;55393
^I was wondering if the carbon canister could be causing any kind of problem.  It has to be something external to the engine.  I talked to the original owner of the motor I bought and he said it had no problems.  Then talked to the dealer I bought the car from and he said the old motor exhibited the same starting issues.  After 2 mins it ran fine.  

So it has to be something external to the engine that didn't get swapped in.  IE:  brake booster vacuum (brakes feel a tad weak, but I'm coming from an e46), carbon canister, wiring harness, coils, or plug wires.  Any suggestions on where to start?


FWIW, my brakes feel very weak, but I've always attributed that to never getting around to flushing it with new good fluid.

- 91 318is (loves to warm-start-stall
- 08 135i European Delivery 9/18/08

AcSchnitzer318is

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Warm start stall
« Reply #24 on: August 27, 2008, 12:13:53 PM »
^Mine has been flushed and bled with new good fluid... and still feels weak.  I thought it was my MC or something, but maybe it's the booster.


"A good memory for quotes combined with a poor memory for attribution can lead to a false sense of originality."

achtungE30

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« Reply #25 on: August 29, 2008, 10:02:31 AM »
Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;55589
^Mine has been flushed and bled with new good fluid... and still feels weak.  I thought it was my MC or something, but maybe it's the booster.

I noticed when fudging with hoses, i've accidentally tugged the vacuum line to brake booster and you hear the hiss but i've always pushed it back on, should it be so loose that we can just tug on it and it creates a massive leak?

Just a shot in the dark.

- 91 318is (loves to warm-start-stall
- 08 135i European Delivery 9/18/08

AcSchnitzer318is

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« Reply #26 on: August 29, 2008, 10:13:11 AM »
Mine feels very loose as well... can anyone with a car that idles properly chime in as to whether that is normal?


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dgdavidson

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Warm start stall
« Reply #27 on: August 29, 2008, 04:59:18 PM »
I've tried a camshaft sensor on mine and that didn't help. Also after today's hot restart the antilock brake light came on, that's a new one.

I had a Mitsu Galant VR-4 once and one time it started dieing and it turned out to be the alternator, reason I mention this is that the antilock brake light came on while this was happening, the alternator light never came on. Apparently the antilock system is much more sensitive to low voltage than the rest of the car.
1991 318is Diamant Schwarz

sports.racer

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Warm start stall
« Reply #28 on: August 30, 2008, 11:02:07 PM »
Drove it a while today, the antilock light is out and the car ran great. Put a voltmeter on it and all is well there too. I hate intermittent crap.

achtungE30

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Warm start stall
« Reply #29 on: September 01, 2008, 08:54:51 AM »
Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;55711
Mine feels very loose as well... can anyone with a car that idles properly chime in as to whether that is normal?


Next time my car does it, i'll jump out and try to push/tighten the the brake vacuum host to the booster and see what happens.

- 91 318is (loves to warm-start-stall
- 08 135i European Delivery 9/18/08