Author Topic: bad idle (Read 20397 times)

E30nate · « **Reply #60 on:** September 30, 2008, 12:55:21 AM »

check the plugs. my car is doing the same thing, but it cuts out when driving. i was checking some things today with my dmm and found out that one of the wires to the tps came out of the terminal on the connecter inside the rubber boot. gonna fix it tomorrow and hopefully it fixes my problem.

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #61 on:** October 07, 2008, 01:09:08 PM »

Checked the plugs for the icv and tps... pulled back the rubber and all that good stuff. All were good. Going to replace the complete exhaust system next and see if that has any effect...

jrobie79 · « **Reply #62 on:** October 07, 2008, 06:21:29 PM »

i did the same, i cleaned my TPS out no effect, checked wires, no effect, i know I have an exhaust leak, but i doubt thats whats causing this, its after the o2 sensor.

pwforprez · « **Reply #63 on:** October 08, 2008, 01:47:07 AM »

Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;58045

Checked the plugs for the icv and tps... pulled back the rubber and all that good stuff. All were good. Going to replace the complete exhaust system next and see if that has any effect...

you can swap cams with me if you want to try that...also if you want to swap out parts to help locate the problem i dont mind. ur the tall guy in SA right? your car is sick. im the guy with the white 318 we met on that dyno day...

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #64 on:** October 08, 2008, 09:36:06 AM »

Quote from: pwforprez;58084

you can swap cams with me if you want to try that...also if you want to swap out parts to help locate the problem i dont mind. ur the tall guy in SA right? your car is sick. im the guy with the white 318 we met on that dyno day...

Ya I remember... thanks again for letting me borrow ur ecu for the first dyno run. I ended up getting a chip for it immediately after that. The car runs much better than it did on that dyno day (lol after warm up anyway).

Thanks for the offer, but I have the stock cams here. I just don't think the cams are the cause of my problem since so many ppl with stock cams are having the same issue. Can't think of any other parts to try and swap...

Also thanks for the compliment... car looks better now though than it did at the dyno. Much has changed

pwforprez · « **Reply #65 on:** October 08, 2008, 10:52:21 PM »

there is another dyno day commin up in November i believe. im hopeing to have a little more then last time.

JHZR2 · « **Reply #66 on:** October 10, 2008, 10:28:19 AM »

Ive got the same or at least a similar problem with my 318i, which has 114k.

If I start it cold, it runs perfect. If I get it up to temperature, shut it off and then restart before it cools down fully, it stalls.

it will do this time after time, unless I rev it up unloaded to 3000 RPM or so. I cant get the engine to load without stalling, because it goes off so fast after startup... I need to do that revving right away.

new fuel pump, ICV, injectors, O2 sensor, battery, plugs, wires, oil, etc., etc. thi car is meticulously maintained to ensure that anything that could go wrong is replaced before its time. This is just a nuissance thing, but perhaps the AFM amp or a few other things may help...

Thanks,

JMH

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #67 on:** October 14, 2008, 08:08:58 AM »

^Probably not the AFM amp, I replaced mine and still have this issue. Many guys run without the amp and don't have this issue. I am guessing this is something external to the engine. Not sure what though.

deltaneo1 · « **Reply #68 on:** October 14, 2008, 08:14:32 AM »

have you changed the fuel filter?

or run some fuel cleaner system next time you fill up.. it might be the fuel pump too.. but i would start small befor buting a bunch of parts

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #69 on:** October 14, 2008, 08:58:47 AM »

Fuel pump is good (system was pressure tested)... fuel filter less than 6 months old. Replaced it when I did the rear fuel lines. Ran seafoam through the oil, manifold, and gas to clean it out. After running the car 50 miles, drained the old oil and put in new. Car runs better but still has the same warm start issue.

lol keep the suggestions coming.

EN318isPDX · « **Reply #70 on:** October 14, 2008, 11:14:49 AM »

Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;58486

Fuel pump is good (system was pressure tested)... fuel filter less than 6 months old. Replaced it when I did the rear fuel lines. Ran seafoam through the oil, manifold, and gas to clean it out. After running the car 50 miles, drained the old oil and put in new. Car runs better but still has the same warm start issue.

lol keep the suggestions coming.

I noticed yesterday that when i turn my head lights i get idle searching but with the lights off it does not, perhaps its the alternator?

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #71 on:** October 14, 2008, 04:05:52 PM »

^I was thinking that as well... or battery maybe. Since I have a pretty large stereo (did the problem before stereo too) I installed a digital voltmeter by the battery. It normally reads about 11.8 volts with the car off... and if I turn it on without the stereo it will get up to 13.5 ish. With stereo on it will stay around 13.1ish.

I think I am going to get an optima red top just for sh*ts and giggles since I don't know when this battery was replaced anyway. Then I'll monitor the voltages with the new batt. Might have autozone test the alternator too...

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #72 on:** October 14, 2008, 04:07:10 PM »

On a side note... I ran across this that a buddy sent to me who was helping diagnose the problem... do we have something like this?

".... It sounds like it might be the ignition resistor or some related part of that circuit. It works like this, there are two circuits to power the coil, one supplies 12v during startup, and the other supplies maybe 6 or 8 volts through the resistor the rest of the time. If it only runs while the starter is running this can be your problem. Its easy to check, put a voltmeter at the coil and start it up. If you lose voltage after releasing the key, its probably that resistor which is usually hidden in the wiring harness somewhere near the coil, can't say for sure on a 318."

EN318isPDX · « **Reply #73 on:** October 22, 2008, 03:24:33 PM »

Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;58529

^I was thinking that as well... or battery maybe. Since I have a pretty large stereo (did the problem before stereo too) I installed a digital voltmeter by the battery. It normally reads about 11.8 volts with the car off... and if I turn it on without the stereo it will get up to 13.5 ish. With stereo on it will stay around 13.1ish.

I think I am going to get an optima red top just for sh*ts and giggles since I don't know when this battery was replaced anyway. Then I'll monitor the voltages with the new batt. Might have autozone test the alternator too...

Sounds like a good idea! I have an optima it helped but didnt cure the problem. I am replacing my cam sensor today to see if that has any effect. 50 dollars off pelican comes with a new seal i couldnt resist.

tjts1 · « **Reply #74 on:** October 22, 2008, 04:27:27 PM »

Quote from: EN318isPDX;58496

I noticed yesterday that when i turn my head lights i get idle searching but with the lights off it does not, perhaps its the alternator?

Yeah mine does it too. Also does it when I hit the door locks or turn the steering wheel (before I removed the PS pump) or switch on the AC. I don't think its an alternator problem. Its the engine management being slow to react to a load increase as well as a relatively light weight flywheel. Nothing we can really do about it short of switching to MS+S or something like that.