Author Topic: bad idle (Read 20480 times)

yelloe · « **Reply #45 on:** August 21, 2008, 11:16:10 AM »

Hey everyone, I've also have been dealing with this issue on my vehicle. One thing that I may add is that I too just did a swap from an identicle donor car. Before my original motor blew a head, I had no issue with the idle. Until I did the swap, I went from a beat up 220K motor (orginal) to a very well maintained 120K donor engine.

-Eddie

jrobie79 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 27, 2008, 09:21:33 PM »

im going to swap wires from my sisters car, i know hers runs fine, ill let u know if anythign changes

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #47 on:** August 27, 2008, 10:32:57 PM »

Quote from: jrobie79;55623

im going to swap wires from my sisters car, i know hers runs fine, ill let u know if anythign changes

Try to swap the coils too if you can... that way you can rule those out for me as well

jrobie79 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 30, 2008, 11:40:55 PM »

will be doing this tomorrow sometime in the afternoon

jrobie79 · « **Reply #49 on:** September 03, 2008, 07:54:07 PM »

sorry guys i couldnt do anything to my car, i just fractured my face in 3 places goin in for reconstructive surgery on the 10th, ill let u know after i get better any updates.

EN318isPDX · « **Reply #50 on:** September 04, 2008, 10:57:23 AM »

Quote from: jrobie79;55983

sorry guys i couldnt do anything to my car, i just fractured my face in 3 places goin in for reconstructive surgery on the 10th, ill let u know after i get better any updates.

DAaaaaamn! Sorry bout that man! Dare i ask how it happened?

jrobie79 · « **Reply #51 on:** September 04, 2008, 06:16:11 PM »

playin baseball, collision in the outfield, i called the other guy off, apparently he didnt hear me, what are you gonna do tho, it happened, i was pissed, and i should be as good as new when its all done, and hopefully fix this damn problem.

kowalski · « **Reply #52 on:** September 06, 2008, 05:21:37 PM »

has anyone tried replacing their fuel pressure regulator?

Fixed my similar problems to your guys.

kowalski · « **Reply #53 on:** September 06, 2008, 05:25:34 PM »

oh, and aside from that. as we all know, the m42 vibrates quite a bit.... wires don't like to vibrate.

my point is, check all of your plugs, pull the rubber sleeve back on your plugs, and check for loose or broken wires, a multi meter works good too. I have experienced this on 3 separate occasions.

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #54 on:** September 06, 2008, 10:23:09 PM »

Thanks for the tips... FPR is one of the few things I haven't replaced. Shop pressure tested the system at 40-50lbs which they say is perfectly fine. Don't know where they did that though. Weird though that it only does this at initial start if it is the FPR??? Will replace it anyway just for peace of mind.

Plugs/wires are new/tested. Will check them again just to be sure. Tried pulling the wires from the coils when it was doing the issue and each coil makes the engine run worse so it leads me to believe the coils/plugs/wires are good.

Keep the suggestions coming...

jrobie79 · « **Reply #55 on:** September 06, 2008, 11:11:56 PM »

could it be a timing issue, i know im about to change my whole system, maybe with the old chain loosening up too much, mine is overdue which is why i plan to change it but i cant while im disabled so just throwing that out there.

Cobra Jet · « **Reply #56 on:** September 11, 2008, 01:38:16 PM »

I don't see it mentioned yet - but have you taken the time out to probe any of the connectors that go to any of the most common engine sensors to see if those are within spec per factory guidelines? It's possible that 1 or more connectors coudl have bad internal wires under the wire wrap - or broken wires, which would lead to malfunctioning sensors and/or engine issues.

Also, have you probed each of your sensors with a multimeter to see what their output specs are also?

I know you have stated that you replaced or cleaned your ICV - what is the output of it when probed, does it match the factory specs? If it is reading under or over the factory specs, it's going to cause idle control issues when cold, when hot, when at idle or when driving.

I too was having cold start issues. I probed my ICV and it was well below the specs per what the factory readings should be for that part. I then soaked it in carb/brake cleaner, let it dry - tapped it with a small hammer all around the exterior casing, then reinstalled and probed it again. This time around, the "hum" or "buzz" from the ICV when powered up was much stronger and the specs were within what the factory specs should be once probed. When starting the car from a bone cold start - no more problems starting it and no more issues with drivability as the engine was warming up.

Even if the ICV is new, is a used replacement, etc - I would still spec it out with a multimeter and post up your results. Also as I said above, I would start probing out the actual connectors that go to the engine sensors - it's quite possible either one or more are not connected 100% or there is damage to the actual wires in the casing.

kowalski · « **Reply #57 on:** September 11, 2008, 06:37:50 PM »

Quote from: AcSchnitzer318is;56175

Thanks for the tips... FPR is one of the few things I haven't replaced. Shop pressure tested the system at 40-50lbs which they say is perfectly fine. Don't know where they did that though. Weird though that it only does this at initial start if it is the FPR??? Will replace it anyway just for peace of mind.

Plugs/wires are new/tested. Will check them again just to be sure. Tried pulling the wires from the coils when it was doing the issue and each coil makes the engine run worse so it leads me to believe the coils/plugs/wires are good.

Keep the suggestions coming...

could be the check valve in your pump, i bought a 12$ mech. fp gauge and plumbed it in in my engine bay, and it has helped me so many times.

did you check the TPS plug for breaks? and the hot/cold OHMS of the cam and crank sensor yet?

jrobie79 · « **Reply #58 on:** September 11, 2008, 09:24:53 PM »

i know my crank and cam sensors are within spec, as i checked the resistance on my motor and the same on my sisters and they are fine, and her car runs like a champ so on mine at least thats not the problem, still recovering from surgery so i havent checked anything else yet.

AcSchnitzer318is · « **Reply #59 on:** September 11, 2008, 11:16:41 PM »

Guys, if it were an electrical break... or bad connector, I think the problem would be intermittent. Not everytime you start the car warm. This has to be something mechanical or a sensor. Just checked my wires... they were fine. Will ohm out the cam/crank sensors next but as jrobles found, I'm sure mine will be fine as well. Still want to replace the FPR. I am going to seafoam this mutha soon too just for funsies. Will do that when I am going to do the next oil change.

But I am going to check the ICV and TPS plugs for wear because I would kick myself hard in nuts if I didn't... and found out later that's what it was.