Author Topic: Can you tighten the valve cover bolts tighter please? (Read 6247 times)

peerless · « **on:** June 11, 2008, 05:05:55 PM »

Well trying to finish up this second M42 build and ran into some trouble. Went to bolt the valve cover down and viola stripped threads in the head.

So I get the heli-coil kit out and fix one, oh wait two. Ok lets bolt the valve cover back on, oh damn another one. Pull the valve cover back off, fix that one, find another one. Bolt the cover back on, nope another one just let go.

EIGHT stripped threads for the valve cover. No wonder the engine was covered in oil, the valve cover was basically just sitting on the head.

Now I could understand if these where aluminum threads. They are not, they are steel inserts, so the only way you could strip them is if you used an air tool, or your a big greasy gorilla with absolutely no skills. And on top of that you obviously don't give a shit about the car your working on.

This is why when you take your car to a regular repair shop, you are NOT in good hands. Book time overrides quality every time.

Remember that when you take your car to a regular repair shop. What a pain in the ass and a huge delay once again, no wonder I can't get anything done, I am always fixing other peoples screw ups. I guess some things will never change. :rolleyes:

End of rant.

colin86325 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 11, 2008, 06:16:27 PM »

Damn, eight stripped valve cover holes??? Wow, just wow.

Wise Old Dog · « **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2008, 06:46:51 PM »

Steel inserts? Time certs maybe? Must be aftermarket. I have never seen these inserts in an oem head. Mine are tapped aluminum, and yes they do strip easily.

ak96ss · « **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2008, 06:52:56 PM »

Yep, mine were also tapped aluminum, and I helicoiled 7 of them when I did mine. The PO had used some sort of goo to attempt to repair the threads, but of course that junk doesn't work.

nomad · « **Reply #4 on:** June 11, 2008, 07:09:42 PM »

aluminum head = aluminum threads. Torque value is like 7n/m or something.
If you have steel inserts you are somewhat lucky.

peerless · « **Reply #5 on:** June 11, 2008, 08:01:28 PM »

I think you guys had better take a closer look at your head next time you have a valve cover off. You might be surprised when you take a good close look.

I find it hard to believe that every one of the 3 M42's I have worked all have the same exact inserts inserted at the exact depth. Also if the head threads where all aluminum they would not be able to hold the torque necessary to crush the rubber grommet on every bolt, let alone go through 20 years of service. 6mm x 1.0 is not a very strong thread size.

If someone can show me a picture of a M42 head thats all aluminum without inserts factory installed I will eat my words. But without proof to the contrary, they have steel inserts.

Sorry if my post seems a little testy, I have had a bad day today.

peerless · « **Reply #6 on:** June 11, 2008, 08:16:16 PM »

And since I am in a pissed off mood, I just went to bolt on the plastic pipe onto the side of the block. I went aftermarket, what a mistake. Its all mis-molded and sits all cock-eyed. So I get to spend more money to send this piece of mis-molded scrap back and order one from the dealer, wait two days and burn up a bunch of gas driving out to the dealer which isn't very close to me.

Wait, I can't send it back because I threw it across the garage with extreme prejudice and it shattered. Probably made in China like everything else anymore.

I am so frustrated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ruger · « **Reply #7 on:** June 11, 2008, 09:48:30 PM »

Must be a common m42 thing. most of mine were stripped aswell. at least 8-10 so i did the same thing bit the bullet, bought a helicoil kit and then helicoiled all of the threads every single one. but at least now i can trust it

strad · « **Reply #8 on:** June 11, 2008, 09:54:14 PM »

Well, none of mine were stripped when I took the valve cover off my 200k motor. And I used a torque wrench to tighten them, so none of them got stripped when I put it back together.

And I got my plastic pipe straight from the dealer. He had it in stock, which tells you something about the failure rate of these plastic pipes.

nomad · « **Reply #9 on:** June 11, 2008, 11:30:57 PM »

I was totally wrong.
You are much more observant than I. I looked at the two cracked heads I have in the garage = inserts. I even checked with a magnet and they are barely magnetized so that tells me its a grade of stainless steel?

Sucks they strip so easy, or people always torque on them really hard.

Yep, the plastic pipe is waht gave way and ruined my head. Got one at the dealer for like $25. Can get a BMW one cheaper online I think, probably not worth the trouble though.

Sorry you had a bad day. Feel free to vent, that's why we're here. "e-therapy"

peerless · « **Reply #10 on:** June 12, 2008, 12:39:15 AM »

I do apologize for my little tirade. I had to close the garage and walk away.

Been under alot of stress lately and sometimes feel I should keep things to myself but I do appreciate your guys accepting my frustrated comments.

Since I do run a small E30 shop I sometimes feel that when I blowup here it is the equivalent of a public outburst and feel it can be viewed in a negative way. But we all have bad days, tomorrow will be better.

It better be better damn it

Thanks.

batsbats · « **Reply #11 on:** June 12, 2008, 10:22:37 AM »

Quote from: peerless;51096

And since I am in a pissed off mood, I just went to bolt on the plastic pipe onto the side of the block. I went aftermarket, what a mistake. Its all mis-molded and sits all cock-eyed. So I get to spend more money to send this piece of mis-molded scrap back and order one from the dealer, wait two days and burn up a bunch of gas driving out to the dealer which isn't very close to me.

Wait, I can't send it back because I threw it across the garage with extreme prejudice and it shattered. Probably made in China like everything else anymore.

I am so frustrated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah can we get a sticky on this? I bought my URO-PART aftermarket replacement for this plastic junction to the block from BMA for about $14. In the other thread, I remember reading people complaining about the fitment as well. I tried bolting up the two bolts as tight as could be, and it "looked fine". Throughout the next weeks I noticed I was losing coolant, and it was coming from the poor fitment to the block.

I had to buck up and goto BMW parts and buy the piece for 23$ or so. The one thing is, you should buy the aftermarket o-ring that goes with the plastic junction, since my BMW part did not have it already on. Well I wasn't sure how much they would charge or if they had it in the stock.

Ironically, BMA does not carry it anymore, but they have the O-Ring.
Plastic Pipe P/N: 11 53 1 714 738
O-Ring P/N: 11 53 1 709 157

batsbats · « **Reply #12 on:** June 12, 2008, 10:26:07 AM »

Quote from: peerless;51111

I do apologize for my little tirade. I had to close the garage and walk away.

Been under alot of stress lately and sometimes feel I should keep things to myself but I do appreciate your guys accepting my frustrated comments.

Since I do run a small E30 shop I sometimes feel that when I blowup here it is the equivalent of a public outburst and feel it can be viewed in a negative way. But we all have bad days, tomorrow will be better.

It better be better damn it

Thanks.

Hah, venting here is great because only M42 owners can understand your pain

. I'm dreading the day I do my leaky valve cover though, after I had several stripped bolts on my original oil pan, that looked like it was never opened. I'm almost positive the bolts that weren't stripped, was because I applied liquid wrench to properly.

Cobra Jet · « **Reply #13 on:** June 12, 2008, 11:41:36 AM »

I've read a few other threads on other BMW sites as well with regards to the "aftermarket" version of the M42 plastic cooling pipe. All folks who bought either the URO or equivalent "no name copy cat" version of the original BMW part also had issues w/ either poor fitment, poor quality, leaking, distorted from mold process, etc... Stay VERY FAR AWAY from a non-original BMW plastic coolant pipe, as it's not worth a possible engine failure due to it being leaky or ill fitting.... It's also not worth trying to save under $10 by buying a defective aftermarket instead of the original BMW part.

~~~~~~~

peerless - I'm assuming the answer is yes, but will ask anyway, you are using a torque wrench when reinstalling the valve cover bolts right? They don't require alot of "torque", I think the specs are in the online tech/spec manual, as the torque value is really low for them. I always use a torque wrench when reinstalling any engine bolt, regardless of what bolt or where it came from... I am sure you do too, since owning a small repair shop. It sucks that you have to re-fix other people's screw ups when repairing vehicles, bulding engines, etc... Been there, done that on this end too... Some folks should not even open the hood of a vehicle, let alone try to touch or fix anything under it... LOL...

RouteZeroDesign · « **Reply #14 on:** June 12, 2008, 01:48:08 PM »

Is it possible to drill and tap the inserts?
I stripped one of mine with only a tiny amount of force, but since it wasnt an important one i just used sealant tape on the threads and it sealed up perfectly.

It would be nice to re-drill and tap the threads to a better thread dept.