Author Topic: M3 lsd, what do i need - installed (Read 8153 times)

romkasponka · « **Reply #15 on:** June 07, 2006, 01:46:22 PM »

OK, I will check that, if there will be any signs

M42boy · « **Reply #16 on:** June 07, 2006, 03:37:28 PM »

If it's a 4.10 Ltd Slip, you should also see the elusive "S" markings on the top and bottom of the diff. See picture of my medium case 4.10 below:

"S" marks the spot!

Berlin · « **Reply #17 on:** June 07, 2006, 04:48:03 PM »

Quote from: tim_s

NO! adjust the collar on the prop to get the prop out of the way, i'd imagine that's what's causing your bolt-up problems. try bolting the diff up without the prop at all first, then try with the prop. the prop will need to be shortened at the collar, please don't drill a perfectly good subframe and throw your thrust angle etc out!

A medium case diff will fit with no drilling subframes required. i have one in mine. nice diff btw, looks lurrvely.

i have to shorten the propshaft!? i dont see why, on both the diffs the input flange sticks out the same distance from the bolt pattern... it really looks like the only thing that doesnt line up is the output flanges which isnt a big deal... i put it on without removing the shaft because i didnt want to remove the exhaust to get at the collar, its a pita to remove my exhaust. i just slid the diff onto the knurled bolts on the propshaft and then lined up the bushing.

Quote from: M42Boy

If it's a 4.10 Ltd Slip, you should also see the elusive "S" markings on the top and bottom of the diff. See picture of my medium case 4.10 below:

Yes sir its exactley one of those. i painted over the top 'S'.

Quote from: romkasponka

just drill upper holes closer about 1cm to others holes and it should fit. And check does the bolts screw freely in to differential. After that fit E36 gearbox

so drill which holes? on the subframe or on the diff? the thing is its not misaligning by THAT much (whole cm) cause when its up there with my finger i can feel the hole and its almost right on for all four but for some reason the diff wont snugly sit up against that support from the underside.

Quote from: zerofreez

We finally saw the marks on the driveshaft and put 1/8" spacers between the diff and the subframe, fixed it compleately.

That right now sounds like exactley whats missing... something to fill the space between the diff and the subframe at the bolt holes because like i said above, it just wont snug up to it. when you forced it in the first time you must have somewhat deformed the subframe to the shape of the diff but at the same time bent it upwards causeing the propshaft to hit the chasis?

thanks for all the advice guys! i'm goin to go give it another try now with my buddy hopefully we figure it out (: and ill post more pictures when i get to work

romkasponka · « **Reply #18 on:** June 07, 2006, 05:48:22 PM »

upper holes on subframe. And clean holes in differential, because it was realy hard to screw in bolts, you know why

M42boy · « **Reply #19 on:** June 07, 2006, 07:30:28 PM »

Quote from: Berlin

iThat right now sounds like exactley whats missing... something to fill the space between the diff and the subframe at the bolt holes because like i said above, it just wont snug up to it. when you forced it in the first time you must have somewhat deformed the subframe to the shape of the diff but at the same time bent it upwards causeing the propshaft to hit the chasis?

thanks for all the advice guys! i'm goin to go give it another try now with my buddy hopefully we figure it out (: and ill post more pictures when i get to work

I think you're onto something here. I'd got with some nice thick washers to fill in the gap if that's all it takes. I have heard many people say to make sure you put in the rear bolts first (ones more towards the front of the car) or it's a LOT more difficult to get it to line up. Just a suggestion.

Berlin · « **Reply #20 on:** June 07, 2006, 08:02:20 PM »

Quote from: M42boy

I think you're onto something here. I'd got with some nice thick washers to fill in the gap if that's all it takes. I have heard many people say to make sure you put in the rear bolts first (ones more towards the front of the car) or it's a LOT more difficult to get it to line up. Just a suggestion.

ya man, my bentley says do the back bolts first too. and i did.. no help, i think i might run the washers... the threads are messed, and i just went on a hunt around town for a M12x1.5 tap and nobody has it gah. I'll try to find one in the school shop tomorrow.

M42boy · « **Reply #21 on:** June 07, 2006, 09:56:06 PM »

Quote from: Berlin

ya man, my bentley says do the back bolts first too. and i did.. no help, i think i might run the washers... the threads are messed, and i just went on a hunt around town for a M12x1.5 tap and nobody has it gah. I'll try to find one in the school shop tomorrow.

Come to think of it, I had to re-tap my threads as well and I bought all new mounting bolts. Maybe that helped. Good luck, get some washers in case it won't snug up. Should be fine as long as you aren't spacing it out too much.

gazellebeigem3 · « **Reply #22 on:** June 11, 2006, 01:24:56 AM »

I already installed a m3 4.10, fit with no modifications or parts needed. I did have problems lining up the bolt holes, but they match up after a fight.

///Motorsport · « **Reply #23 on:** June 16, 2006, 05:22:13 PM »

will i have such problems installing a LSD unit from a 325is? this is a medium case as well, i assume? i just dont want to get in there and never get the thing fit...

M42boy · « **Reply #24 on:** June 16, 2006, 05:31:42 PM »

Just clean out and re-tap the threads. Fits without any modification. New bolts don't hurt either.

Berlin · « **Reply #25 on:** June 19, 2006, 03:06:49 AM »

GOT'ER IN!

ya no worries, after a battle everything lined up, with the aid of a slightly larger M12 imperial equiv drill bit to bore out the carrier bolt holes. but it was definitley a pita... also had to re-tap the threads in the diff.... thanks everyone for the tips

Berlin · « **Reply #26 on:** June 20, 2006, 07:14:29 PM »

k so the driveshaft is rubbing the floor, just barely but it makes a very loud sound at pretty much any speed. soo i tried to get some 1/8" washers in like was suggested previously... now i cant get the bolt holes to line up again

this is fregin irritating

Shocker · « **Reply #27 on:** June 21, 2006, 12:35:34 AM »

I did a medium case swap and there is a big nut with splines about half way up the drive shaft, I had to loosen the nut and make my drive shaft about 1/2 shorter for the holes to line up correctly. I�m guessing that�s your problem.

Berlin · « **Reply #28 on:** June 21, 2006, 10:47:43 PM »

its really not that off, 1/2" is a huge difference, my bolt holes dont line up by about a 16'th at most, only the front ones, i think i may have accidentaly bent the carrier upwards a little while jacking the car up at the diff which causes the dshaft to scrape the underside...ill try to match up the bolt holes with a big c-clamp and then bend the carrier back down like an 1/8 to fix the scraping. keep in mind this is not very easy for a skinny kid to do in the parking lot with limited tools and no help around.

Author Topic: M3 lsd, what do i need - installed (Read 8153 times)

///Motorsport