Author Topic: plastic coolant pipe (Read 5326 times)

PaulC · « **on:** April 19, 2008, 07:20:13 PM »

p#11531714738 the hard plastic return(?) coolant pipe in the block under the intake. I was trying to save a few bucks and got it from a FLAPS.

Was replacing this part today and found that the aftermarket part I bought (brand--UROParts) doesn't sit flush with the block. The old one did but its cracked. Just wondering if anyone here who has replaced this part had a similar problem and if you can tell me if the BMW part sits flush with the block. I don't want to chance it and hopefull can return this one. Have to wait till Monday to go to the dealer. So in the mean time any info would be much appreciated. Thanks

nomad · « **Reply #1 on:** April 20, 2008, 09:48:12 AM »

Lubricate the O-ring give it a good amount of pressure and carefully tighten the bolts, it should pop in to place. I didn't think it would pop in but it did.

Put the old one side by side and look at it to be sure it is the same too.

I got mine from BMW though.

PaulC · « **Reply #2 on:** April 20, 2008, 01:27:21 PM »

Yeah, I did all that and the problem was once the bolts were tight there was a crooked gap where the pipe enters the block (if that makes any sense). The only way I can see it sitting flush with the block would be to remove some material from the 2 mounting points on the pipe. Eyeballing both next to each other the mounting 'brackets' look slightly off. I'm gonna go get a new pipe from BMW tomorrow and try returning the aftermarket part. Thanks for the response.

red97tj · « **Reply #3 on:** April 21, 2008, 02:26:17 PM »

i changed out that pipe before w/ an oem part & that never really sat flushed w/ the block. the shoulder on the pipe doesn't sit flushed w/ the block (it's prob. about 1-2mm away from the block). i blame it on both attachment points being only on 1 side of the pipe instead of being on the opposite sides to prevent it from rocking.
but it has been on for close to a year like this w/out any problems so if it's not leaking, i wouldn't worry too much.

PaulC · « **Reply #4 on:** April 21, 2008, 05:08:39 PM »

Got a new pipe from BMW today and it fits like a glove (perfectly flush with the block). Thanks for the responses.

tjts1 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 21, 2008, 05:29:39 PM »

How much did it cost at the dealer?

jrobie79 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 21, 2008, 08:36:07 PM »

mine was like 22 with CCA discount when i changed mine

PaulC · « **Reply #7 on:** April 21, 2008, 09:53:13 PM »

$25 from BMW.
$15 aftermarket (Foreign Car Parts - Rolling Meadows, IL).

tjts1 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 21, 2008, 11:17:10 PM »

cool thanks. I'll probably replace mine next time I have the manifold off.

EN318isPDX · « **Reply #9 on:** April 24, 2008, 01:07:08 PM »

I payed 12 dollars for mine from a friend at the dealer. I got the car all back together. Oiled the ring and poured coolant in and... The dealer gave me the wrong o-ring. Had to do it all over again. I also got remaned injectors off rockauto for $26 a piece

dreamliner · « **Reply #10 on:** May 12, 2011, 09:36:19 PM »

Hi Everyone, I need to replace the coolant pipe on my 1994 318is. I will get one at the local dealer. I talked to the parts person at the dealer and he thought that I needed to take off the upper intake manifold along with the throttle body in order to replace the coolant pipe, but that I could leave the lower intake manifold attached to the engine block. Can anyone confirm this, or offer any other tips on replacing the coolant pipe (bty, a new one at the dealer is $30). Thanks for any advice you can offer!

woof132 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 12, 2011, 11:34:49 PM »

it's been a while since i've been in that region of the engine bay, but as i recall, you can leave the lower intake manifold attached and access the plastic hose. that will save you from having to disconnect the injectors as well. on my car, i deleted the throttle body heater plate, so i could just leave the throttle body attached to the upper intake manifold and pull the two off as one. if you still have the heater plate, you will probably have to pull the throttle body from the upper manifold first, as disconnecting the heater plate hoses is tricky at best otherwise. it's not difficult to do though. disconnect vacuum lines to the throttle body, disconnect intake boot, disconnect throttle cable, and then there are 4 10mm nuts holding the throttle body to the manifold. you will probably need a deep 10mm socket and a long ratchet extension to get them. be careful when pulling the throttle body as there is a thin, fragile aluminum gasket between it and the manifold. you can re-use it as long as you don't damage it when pulling the TB

you should also get a replacement gasket that goes between the upper and lower intake manifolds, as when you pull the upper, that gasket will more than likely not be reusable and will give you issues if you don't replace it.

stillmatick · « **Reply #12 on:** May 13, 2011, 05:48:33 AM »

Quote from: dreamliner;103771

Hi Everyone, I need to replace the coolant pipe on my 1994 318is. I will get one at the local dealer. I talked to the parts person at the dealer and he thought that I needed to take off the upper intake manifold along with the throttle body in order to replace the coolant pipe, but that I could leave the lower intake manifold attached to the engine block. Can anyone confirm this, or offer any other tips on replacing the coolant pipe (bty, a new one at the dealer is $30). Thanks for any advice you can offer!

while you're there might as well do this and buy mustang injectors.
deleted heater plate hoses.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2742%29
use 1 foot long piece of 5/8" heater hose to bypass,don't use oem hose like I did because it will bust because of high pressure from the little nipple.