High idle, affected by angle car is parked at?

[nomad]

Ok, odd I know.
Got the car back together today after replacing head, chain, hoses etc etc.
Fired up and seems to be doing fine.

I didn't have much time to tune it but it seems to be idling high, even after running for a while to get it up to temp. No check engine light, no odd noises, just a high idle.

I *think* when I pulled it out of the driveway and the nose was facing down hill that it dropped down the idle some.

Any ideas? Adjustments to the throttle needed? I'll look it over again tomorrow.

[Cobra Jet]

Check your throttle cable, because it could be possible when it was reinstalled that it is a little too "tight".  If it is a little too tight, this would open up the butterfly in the throttle body more than it was before the disassembly, which would create a higher than normal idle.  

Also check to see if you need to clean the ICV or AFM.

[vatos_p]

try to clean the idle valve , 99% solves the problem , and check the lambda sensor also...
my car had same problems and afrer a lambda sensor replacement and a good idle valve wash the problem gone...!!!

[Cobra Jet]

I've been dealing with some minor ICV (idle control valve) issues as of lately...

Remove the ICV from the engine, remove the hoses from it, clean it out with a carb or brake cleaner by squirting the product in each opening.  Once it dries out, then squirt some WD40 inside of it to lube the internal plunger & spring.

To tell if it is functioning, after you have removed it from the car, get a multi-meter tester.  Set the multi meter to OHMS.  Test the ICV by using the leads of the multi-meter and touching the connector points on the bottom of the ICV. If the ICV is 100% good, according to online specs, you should see 20 ohms when testing it.  If you see less than 20 OHMS, the ICV is not operating 100%.

Another way to tell if the ICV is turning "on" is to turn your key to ON (KOEO - key on engine off) and then feel the ICV valve (put your hand on it).  If once feeling it you can feel a "buzzing" sensation, the ICV is currently on and is working (to what extent it's working would depend soley on the above OHM test).  If you touch the ICV and you don't feel ANYTHING at all, the ICV is internally jammed and is not turning on...  At this point is where you remove it and do the above clean & lube process.  

After doing the clean & lube process, take a small hammer and tap the entire exterior casing of the ICV.  Don't hit it extremely hard, but you want to hit it hard enough to jar the internals (spring & plunger) to de-jam it...  Reinstall the ICV and start the car.  If the car has a very high or very low idle, take your small hammer and tap the ICV again while the car is idling.  If the idle changes (up or down) while tapping the ICV, then the ICV needs to be replaced, as the internal plunger is not functioning 100% as it should be...

You could try removing it and cleaning/lubing it again to see if it will function more smoothly - but depending on how old it is, how many miles are on it, how well the engine was previously maintained - sometimes the ICV will spring back to life, while in other instances, you will need to replace it...

[nomad]

I took the icv off and cleaned again, i'll shoot some WD40 into it soon.
Looks like everything is fine now and the car runs strong. I'll start taking it on shorter trips locally to get it some running time and work any kinks out.

I'm thinking of getting some different hose for the ICV as it may be prone to collapsing under vacuum when the hoses get hot. I used some PS hose but I need something stiffer.

[Cobra Jet]

I took the icv off and cleaned again, i'll shoot some WD40 into it soon.
Looks like everything is fine now and the car runs strong. I'll start taking it on shorter trips locally to get it some running time and work any kinks out.

I'm thinking of getting some different hose for the ICV as it may be prone to collapsing under vacuum when the hoses get hot. I used some PS hose but I need something stiffer.

Go to your local auto parts store, some of the fuel injection hose is thicker (to prevent collapsing). GoodYear has a new fuel injection hose out, as I have seen it at AutoZone.  The hose has a blue inner wall which is to prevent premature fatigue and also stregthens the interior walls to prevent collapse.  I think it comes in variable diameters, however I'm not sure if it comes in a large enough diameter to use for the ICV hosing...