Author Topic: hoses. lots of hoses (Read 4824 times)

hoevesruperd · « **on:** April 01, 2008, 10:37:35 PM »

i was wondering if someone could help me out on this one
i know i can go on realoem and sort it out, but i thought someone might have done this before

in a month i will start restoring my car
part of this restoration is a complete overhaul of all the hoses in the engine bay. theses parts, when added up are very pricey. is there a kit available for every hose to change? (vacuum and coolant)

by the way, i am debating whether i keep the throttle heater or not. (i might keep the car as a summer car only and drive volvos over the cold arsh montreal winters)

also; i know there are different types and sizes of standard hoses sold by the meter. how long should i buy of which one?

thanks for the help

D. Clay · « **Reply #1 on:** April 01, 2008, 11:29:27 PM »

BMAParts.com has good prices on OEM type hoses. I would definitely do away with the heater plate. I remember being able to buy universal bends of heater hose such as 45 and 90 degree pieces but I haven't seen them in a long time. The last good foreign parts place here sold out to a chain last year. They carried World PAC, BAP-GEON and a lot of other stuff.

hoevesruperd · « **Reply #2 on:** April 02, 2008, 07:34:10 AM »

thanks i'll check BMAparts now. is there a list of parts number i need somewhere? i will also check my local parts store, as you said, maybe they have standard junctions!

Cobra Jet · « **Reply #3 on:** April 02, 2008, 12:23:12 PM »

If you are going through the trouble of replacing your old hoses and such, I would certainly check out the "deletion" of many of the hoses located under the intake. By deleting some of those hoses, you can surely save money, but you also avoid the possibility of future areas of potential hose leaks and/or problems. You may want to consider this option.

There are quite a few threads on this site showing how and what hoses you can safely delete with no detrimental affects to the engine or it's operation. On my 318ic, my friend who sold it to me, when he rebuilt the engine, he also deleted many of the original hoses based on the threads on here. The engine runs excellent with no issues at all. Also, the heater plate at the throttle body on mine is not hooked up either and again, I've had no issues starting the car or driving it when outside temps are below 30*.

Just a thought...

hoevesruperd · « **Reply #4 on:** April 02, 2008, 12:31:07 PM »

thanks phil! i want to delete the most i can and keep the engine bay as simple as possible. i knew the throttle body heater is a possible mod but never heard of other deletion possibilities.. could you give me a few more hints on where to look? thanks

Cobra Jet · « **Reply #5 on:** April 02, 2008, 12:55:02 PM »

sure here ya go -

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3621&page=2

There are some links within that thread that show how to delete many of the hoses under the intake. There is also a link on the 2nd page of that thread which also shows how to delete the hoses. Many M42 owners have deleted the hoses.

Some of the head gasket failures can be attributed to 1 or more of those hoses IF the owner did not know any of them were leaking and they go without being fixed or IF 1 or more of them have a catastrophic failure (which would result in instant coolant loss to the head, overheating and eventual head gasket failure which could lead to a cracked head)...

Hope that's helpful!

hoevesruperd · « **Reply #6 on:** April 02, 2008, 01:35:20 PM »

i bookmarked this one. thanks a lot!

oldtimer · « **Reply #7 on:** April 03, 2008, 08:08:23 AM »

I did to mind about a week or two ago. What I did with the heated plate, I wliminated it and loop the water fitting from the block to the fitting from the transfer tube from the waterpump. The hose from the intake hose to the ICV I got a reducer to match up the size from the ICV to the buttom of the intake tube. the molded hose from the valve cover to the buttom of the throttle body, I kept that molded hose and used one of the straight connector and use a power steering hose I had laying around to connect the two and plug it back to the fitting under the throttle body.

One thing different I did with one experiment with my car is: got one of those small breather filter and connected that to the fitting under the throttle body. then I got a plastic (5/16) "T" cut the vacuum line from the vapor canisted in half to splice the "T" fitting hook up a 5/16 vacuum line long enough to reach the fitting on the valve cover and incorporate a "PCV" system to suck up the fumes from the valve cover.

Matter of fact I was going to post a thread and ask for opinion on the experiment.

hoevesruperd · « **Reply #8 on:** April 03, 2008, 08:17:18 AM »

oldtimer, i'm having a hard time to figure out your setup, (i left my car at my parents farm until university is over. so i cant look at it) could you please post some pictures?
cheers!

oldtimer · « **Reply #9 on:** April 03, 2008, 10:37:24 AM »

sorry for the poor explanation. I'll take some photos and post them. I'll re-configure the engine with the standard routing of the hoses. then i'll re-install the new configuration with the "PCV" system.

r0ckrat · « **Reply #10 on:** April 03, 2008, 02:52:02 PM »

Before removing the throttle heater, you might want to read this article - most likely ambient temps to create icing issues are between 35-40*C (95-104*F) and high humidity.

hoevesruperd · « **Reply #11 on:** April 03, 2008, 06:24:31 PM »

Quote from: r0ckrat;46037

Before removing the throttle heater, you might want to read this article - most likely ambient temps to create icing issues are between 35-40*C (95-104*F) and high humidity.

this is an interesting article but i'm not sure if it applies to my situation. not sure what to believe

(from the article listed above):''Engines equipped with fuel injection do not require carb heat as they are not as prone to icing - the gasoline is injected as a steady stream just upstream of the intake valve, so evaporation occurs as the fuel/air mixture is being drawn into the cylinder, where metal temperatures are higher. The exception is monopoint or TBI injection systems which spray fuel onto the throttle plate.

Some multipoint injection engines route engine coolant through the throttle body to prevent ice buildup during prolonged idling. This prevents ice from forming around the throttle plate but does not draw large amounts of hot air into the engine as carburetor heat does.''

oldtimer · « **Reply #12 on:** April 04, 2008, 06:38:59 AM »

I agree. I don't think it applies any freezing condition that will take place around the TB there will be a serious indication of freezing externally on the car or the engine bay. In my case my car rarely is driven during any freezing condition or snow condition.

while I was troubleshooting my erratic idle several have suggested looking into vacuum lines under the intake which I found surprisingly not that bad. One vcuum line to the pressure regulator and the vent tubes for the valve cover and the ICV tube to the intake hose. All of those hose item 15 on the link below are nothing but fancy molded fittings to re-direct the air for the valve cover and ICV and the water from the block to the transfer tube from the waterpump.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=13_0307&hg=13&fg=15

To eliminate item 15 I simply acquired a hose big enough to fit on the ICV and a reducer with one end that fits the hose to the ICV and the other end that fits the hose to item 17 which is attach to the intake hose.

for the connection from the fitting under the TB to the valve cover I eliminated a similar piece to item 15 from that connection by using the same molded hose from the valve cover and used one of the straight adapter (item 14) got the same dia hose and connected that to the fitting under the TB.

r0ckrat · « **Reply #13 on:** April 04, 2008, 09:24:49 AM »

"icing" and "freezing" are two different issues. Icing can occur at the TB at low-TB openings (idle) due to the high-velocity air passing through a small opening, combined with evaporating fuel chilling the intake. Kind of lie how ice forms on the AC evaporator. The evaporation of the fuel can chill the system enough to allow ice to form in that condition, which can cause the TB to stick.

Here's the important part of the article:

Quote

Some multipoint injection engines route engine coolant through the throttle body to prevent ice buildup during prolonged idling. This prevents ice from forming around the throttle plate but does not draw large amounts of hot air into the engine as carburetor heat does.

The small amount of heat from the heating plate isn't going to significantly warm up the air coming in and affect HP, just keep the throttle from forming ice at idle. It's not designed to warm the air under severe weather, but prevent "atmospheric icing" in normal conditions and high humidity. When it's extremely cold out, there isn't enough moisture in the air to cause a problem.