Author Topic: Question - potential problem Headgasket - I GOT PICSSS!!!! (Read 5087 times)

Artem · « **on:** March 27, 2008, 10:56:31 PM »

Well, I did the headgasket on my new motor from a 95 car today, and cleaned it all up.

When I was putting the new headgasket in it, I sort of attempted to put it in backwards, and the two holes where the headbolts go got sort of disformed a bit, I ended up putting it in and it worked, as in it is in the right way now, but those holes were a bit moved up by a millimiter or two. The headgasket is flat and compressed, but I cant seem to forget that little mishap, and I just want to know if anyone had similar experiences. I would like to see if i am safe before i put this thing in.

Another thing is - I have no idea how to set up the timing on this thing. I found TDC on the crankshaft, and I have the cams parallel/perpendicular to the valvecover surface, but it seems to be off, cause there is no way to set it up in the same way as it is in the instruction manual - with the notches at the top and stuff.

Please let me know if anyone know the answer to either of these.

318is93 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 28, 2008, 12:56:47 PM »

Send me an email at tribalbot85@yahoo.com and i'll send you some information.

Artem · « **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2008, 03:41:05 PM »

I got pics of the timing

From the pics, you can see the cams, and the bottom end - it is clearly at or near TDC as the balancer for the piston #1 (or 4 - not sure) is at the very bottom.

As far as the headgasket goes, im pretty sure I will be ok

Artem · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2008, 03:44:36 PM »

Does anyone know if I can just leave the front main seal with nothing on it, just inserted in the hole like that? Also, would I be fine if I used the silicone compound on the seals? I figured, it coudlnt hurt.

As you can see, I cleaned the engine overall, put it back together for the most part. If everything is a go, I will put the rest of it together tonight.

-Artem

318is93 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2008, 10:31:06 PM »

I tried sending you the Bentley pdf but it didnt work.. If anyone can post that it'll help alot in the reinstallation process.

Artem · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2008, 10:40:36 PM »

Quote from: 318is93;45801

I tried sending you the Bentley pdf but it didnt work.. If anyone can post that it'll help alot in the reinstallation process.

Thank you

Although, I have that manual and it is pretty much the main reason for the ambiguity. As you can see in the pics, the engine is in one position - it has NOT been moved from photo to photo - the cam surfaces are approximately parallel, however the cam gears are not anywhere close to have those notches pointing straight up the same way as it does in the manual... I am sort of confused as I cannot see a situation where this is at all possible.

Thank you, Artem

Artem · « **Reply #6 on:** April 27, 2008, 08:22:14 PM »

Hey guys, Im really worried about this now!

Can someone who knows about this look at my pics and let me know if im 180 degrees off or not?

All the pics are of the same engine position - it was not rotated at all from picture to picture.

Thank you all, Artem

nomad · « **Reply #7 on:** April 27, 2008, 09:49:04 PM »

TDC is when the piston is at the TOP of it's stroke. Take a small diameter dowel rod and drop it down a spark plug hole, then drop it down the #2 piston hole. If it drops way down compared to #2 then it is not at TDC. If it drops just a bit then it is TDC. You can also shine small flashlight down the hole and probably get a good idea if the piston is at the top of the stroke.

By the pics you show, the engine IS AT TDC because the ballancers are at the bottom and the pistons are at the top of stroke.

BUT! You are looking at the wrong two cam lobes! The two cam lobes that should be pointing towards each other are the #1 cyl, the two CLOSEST to the cam gears!

Also, when you redo it, make sure the rear of the cams are flat across the surfaces. The pic you show indicates they are not flat, and therefore you are one tooth off.

15 chain rivets between the arrows inclusive.

This might help
http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html

nomad · « **Reply #8 on:** April 27, 2008, 10:01:56 PM »

First off, Take out the plugs, unlock the flywheel from TDC. Let the engine rotate in the path of least resistance about 45* right or left. Don't force it so that you don't damage any valves hanging down. What you want to do is let the piston retreat about an inch or so into the cylinder so it does not come in contact with any valves hanging down due to being in the wrong position.

Take the chain tensioner off and the front top timing cover. Take off the cam gears to realign the gears and cams. You can rotate the cams with an adjustable wrench on the rear flats.
Get the two lobes closest to the cam gears facing each other. Then lock them in place. I did not have a cam locking tool so this is what I did:
Get two large adjustable wrenches or crescent of the right size. Put them on the rear flats of the cam. attach them so that the handles cross each other in an "X" and then take a C-clamp and tighten the handles together when the flats are even. Hope that makes sense. (I need to take a pic of this sometime). This will keep them from moving and it's an easy one man job.

Now that they are locked in place, Bring the engine back to TDC and lock it in place.
Attach the intake cam gear in the proper position with arrow facing directly up and bolts centered in the elliptical holes. Then install the exhaust cam gear with arrow facing directly up, and the arrow should be on the 15th chain rivet counting from the intake arrow. You should only be able to set it all up one way when flats are even at the rear, all cam gear bolt holes centered in the elliptical holes and 15 chain rivets from arrow to arrow.

nomad · « **Reply #9 on:** April 27, 2008, 10:07:35 PM »

I also can't tell what I'm looking at regarding the front main seal on the lower timing cover. There should be the chain gear, spacer with keyway and then balancer/main pulley. I'll have to look at some pics but you may want to reexamine the pics and see if the timing case goes on after something else.

Artem · « **Reply #10 on:** April 27, 2008, 10:17:09 PM »

Damn, thank you very much, you have explained quite a bit.

I rotated the motor in this configuration and it was not resisting, however I will need to rotate the cams separately as you have mentioned.

I will follow your advice and turn the motor part-way, and then reset the cams properly.

To my luck, the engine is already in the car, so it will be a little bit more difficult, but that will let me set up the TDC easier with a socket improvising a flywheel locking tool.

Thank you all, Artem

nomad · « **Reply #11 on:** April 27, 2008, 10:28:28 PM »

Artem · « **Reply #12 on:** April 27, 2008, 10:37:37 PM »

One last question - could I have possibly bent any valves if the cams were 180 degrees off on that motor? It didnt seem like it was resisting when I turned it, but I just want to be sure...

nomad · « **Reply #13 on:** April 27, 2008, 10:45:53 PM »

I'd think it's ok, guess it depends on how you cranked on it before you thought about the valves.

Pressure test it before you really put it back together (once the engine is timed of course).

Artem · « **Reply #14 on:** April 27, 2008, 11:03:07 PM »

The bad part is its already in the car. My old head is in great shape, and I might have to use that if my current one is damaged... I will retime it sometime wednesday or thursday and pressure test it then...

-Artem