steering rack

[gearheadE30]

The swap took maybe 4 hours, including installing new tie rods and dissasembling most of the two racks. There weren't really any surprises, but make sure you have a few grinding wheels for a dremel tool. You will need to cut away a bit of the lower inside corner of the hole that the steering shaft goes through. This is easy enough, but I still havn't found a way to put the seal back on there. I think I am just going to epoxy a piece of sheet metal to the firewall with a hole to mount the seal. Right now, the seal is on the shaft but not doing any sealing. It doesn't really cause a problem and I have driven in rain with no problems. Also, you will need a variety of washers to use as spacers above the rack and below the upper part of the mount. If you have read the DIY's and have any mechanical skill, you should be fine.

BTW I would use the e30 PS filter hoses (the filter/reservoir pieces are interchangeable) and the e30 high-pressure line. The HP line needs to be bent to clear the u-joint, but the others are fine. Make sure they aren't thouching anything or vibrations will destroy the lines

Tie rods-if you want to use e30 tie rods, you need e36 lock plates. These are cheap and must be replaced.

[tjts1]

Also, you will need a variety of washers to use as spacers above the rack and below the upper part of the mount. If you have read the DIY's and have any mechanical skill, you should be fine.

Excellent info, thanks. After reading all the writeups on the subject, I was thinking of sticking all the shims below the rack in order to avoid some of the grinding at the steering shaft. I remember reading in one of the r3v threads. This supposedly eliminates the need for any grinding. We'll see. I still haven't done it yet. Maybe next weekend.

[dude8383]

The swap took maybe 4 hours, including installing new tie rods and dissasembling most of the two racks. There weren't really any surprises, but make sure you have a few grinding wheels for a dremel tool. You will need to cut away a bit of the lower inside corner of the hole that the steering shaft goes through. This is easy enough, but I still havn't found a way to put the seal back on there. I think I am just going to epoxy a piece of sheet metal to the firewall with a hole to mount the seal. Right now, the seal is on the shaft but not doing any sealing. It doesn't really cause a problem and I have driven in rain with no problems. Also, you will need a variety of washers to use as spacers above the rack and below the upper part of the mount. If you have read the DIY's and have any mechanical skill, you should be fine.

BTW I would use the e30 PS filter hoses (the filter/reservoir pieces are interchangeable) and the e30 high-pressure line. The HP line needs to be bent to clear the u-joint, but the others are fine. Make sure they aren't thouching anything or vibrations will destroy the lines

Tie rods-if you want to use e30 tie rods, you need e36 lock plates. These are cheap and must be replaced.

I would opt for the E36 inner and outer tie rods...they look much beefier.

Otherwise, Gearhead pretty much summed it up!

[gearheadE30]

Excellent info, thanks. After reading all the writeups on the subject, I was thinking of sticking all the shims below the rack in order to avoid some of the grinding at the steering shaft. I remember reading in one of the r3v threads. This supposedly eliminates the need for any grinding. We'll see. I still haven't done it yet. Maybe next weekend.

This is true, but it also screws up your bump-steer. Basically, the different geometry causes a toe change depending on suspension compression. Moving the whole rack up would cause more toe-in the more the suspension compresses. This can cause increased tire wear and erratic handling in bumpy corners, fast or otherwise. I suppose this change isn't too large, so it may not be too severe.

There is one other problem with putting the shims under the rack. The shafts that the clamps go around all have notches in them to allow the bolt to pass through without damaging the splines. Moving the rack up will essentially shorten the chaft, so the notches may not line up. If you really want to do this, you could probably mark where the slot needs to be and use the hole in the clamp as a guide to drill through. This might make more sense once you take it apart.

[DaveM-sport]

Here's my write up on the conversion;)
http://www.e30owners.com/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=2812

And probably abit far to ship but it will give ye an idea of whats needed anyway:)
http://www.e30owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3105

[Frankie]

So you have used PS E36 racks with non PS e30's. Which way you have closed the piping in E36 rack? Or have you filled the power steering piping with some liquid?

I have a non power steering E30 and planning to change the rack to E36 rack which is with PS. Can I just close the PS piping and attach it to my E30?

[hoevesruperd]

thats it
but dont fill it with fluid. it will create pressure, you might now even be able to steer well. just put a small amount of fluid so it s tays lubricated, then steer lock to lock to make sure all the excess is gone before sealing the rack with appropriate screws

i haven't done it yet and i forgot which screws are needed. dont know if its the same for e30 and e36 racks

[Frankie]

Ok and just to make it clear (for myself), does the E36 tie rods fits "bolt on" to the E30?

[gearheadE30]

The e36 tie rods will work, but you need new lock plates. I don't know if the e36 rods will work with the e30 rack, but I can check as I have spares of both in the basement. For the e36 rack, you need e36 lock plates, regardless of the tie rods.

[Frankie]

The e36 tie rods will work, but you need new lock plates. I don't know if the e36 rods will work with the e30 rack, but I can check as I have spares of both in the basement. For the e36 rack, you need e36 lock plates, regardless of the tie rods.

What is a lock plate? Since I'm going to put E36 rack into E30, I will need those lock plates? Can you point the part number from ETK?

Edit: is it part nro 4? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25

[dude8383]

The e36 tie rods will work, but you need new lock plates. I don't know if the e36 rods will work with the e30 rack, but I can check as I have spares of both in the basement. For the e36 rack, you need e36 lock plates, regardless of the tie rods.

Yup, I'm running E36 inner and outer rods...

Just bought new ones with new lock plates

[keflaman]

I have a non power steering E30 and planning to change the rack to E36 rack which is with PS./QUOTE]

Does your rack look like this? http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd172/keflaman/CIMG0239.jpg

I ran into a problem with the lower steering link and will have to figure out how to modify it since mine looks like none of the others I've seen in any of the write-ups.:confused:

In fact, my steering rack doesn't seem to show up in any of the parts catalogs either.

And lock-to-lock is ~4.75!!!!

[Frankie]

It seems that you have non power steering rack? I can picture of mine and upload it here.

Again, what is a lock plate?

[keflaman]

What is a lock plate? Since I'm going to put E36 rack into E30, I will need those lock plates? Can you point the part number from ETK?

Edit: is it part nro 4? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BE51&mospid=47425&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25

Yes it is. Go to Bavarian and plug in the part # 32111140464. A nice little picture will come up on your screen and show you in better detail.

[gearheadE30]

The lock plate looks like a brass washer. On the e36 it is keyed into the rack shaft. The edge of the lock plate is bent over by a hammer or punch and acts as a grush washer as well. If the tierod becomes loose, the lockplate prevents it from spinning.