Author Topic: Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train  (Read 9079 times)

mdl76

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2008, 12:42:30 PM »
Quote from: Paul Strefling;44074
I am thinking that I may not be able to clearly hear the noise through the valve cover because of the provided insulation from the valve cover gasket, does that seem reasonable to anyone else?


I think the noise would tranfer through the cover bolts.
The devil made me do it

John W

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #16 on: March 06, 2008, 09:26:01 PM »
You've probably already checked this, but make sure one of your spark plugs is not loose.
1991 BMW 318is SOLD :(
1976 BMW 2002 m20
2005 Ford Focus ZX-3

318is93

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2008, 06:36:59 PM »
Find a solution?

quinn11m20

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #18 on: March 10, 2008, 08:39:05 PM »
Paul ,
       Listen, bud, I own a 91 318is just like you. My little Natascha has 232k miles on her. I love this little car. I do all and I mean all my own work. I have lived in the deserts of California and the cold of the Northwest. The whole time I have run 20w50. I live in Florida now and still run a thick oil. As a matter of fact I use Castrol High Mileage oil. I personnally recommend this oil. It has saved my motor. I blew the upper coolant hose. Lost all coolant on the Freeway doing 95mph. I noticed my temp gauge was pegged in the red. Shut the motor off and coasted, luckily to a gas station, prayed to the car gods and fixed her. Buddy, USE THE THICK OIL. Ok. If you love that car, you will do this. Also try one of those oil additive gunk removers. You know the ones you add to the oil 10 min before you change it. Then with a can of ENGINE RESTORE and 5 qts of 20w50, don't forget the oil filter K, go from there. Let me tell you this, the engine restore works on the cylinders AS WELL AS all the other metal parts. If you can search for a product in your area called METALYZ. Its made in Switzerland. This SHIT works wonders. Its just like the Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction oil treatment. Good luck Bud.

Paul Strefling

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #19 on: March 11, 2008, 06:31:23 AM »
I ordered a new set of lifters so I will be installing those this weekend.

I appreciate all of your help on the subject though. I will keep you guys updated.

Paul Strefling

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2008, 04:51:39 AM »
After replacing all the hydraulic lifters and the chain tensioner the problem is now fixed.  Thanks for all the help.

txleadfoot

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2008, 11:11:47 AM »
Paul, I'd love to see some photos and/or writeup on this procedure.  My '92 318ic w/58k miles has the same symptoms ever since I bought it last November.  The previous owner had an overheat so I suspect the hydraulic lifters are cooked.  I've tried Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil to no avail.  Did you need camshaft holder and flywheel lock tools?  Where did you obtain your new lifters from?

Paul Strefling

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2008, 02:35:32 PM »
I was able to perform the procedure without any bmw specific tools. I installed oem lifters to keep the car legal for spec e30, otherwise I would recommend the lighter VW lifters: From MJM AutoHause.

Here is a short list of the procedure. It was very straight forward.

1. remove spark plug wires
2. remove valve cover
3. zip tie timing chain to cam sprockets
4a. Remove upper chain guide
4b. Remove Chain Tensioner (may not be necessary)
5. Use a punch to mark the clocking of cam sprocket on the cam.
6. remove cam sprockets from cams
7. remove cam bearing caps by concurrently loosing the bolts at small intervals.
8. The cams are now free so go ahead and remove them.
9. Remove the lower cam journals along with the lifters.
This concludes the removal.

When you install the cams be sure to concurrently tighten the bolts very slowly. This is for three reasons, one to assure that cam is not put into bending, second to not harm the aluminum bearing faces, and third is to allow the lifters to compress excess oil out, otherwise you may hit a piston.

Assembly lube or some other type of sticky oil makes it easier to install the lifters, otherwise they will continue to fall out of their journals.

Some thoughts:  if you have significant chain stretch you may want to check the timing at the end of the procedure to see if you should re clock the cam gears back to spec.

I will of course be available to answer any further questions; e-mail me if I am slow to respond though.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2008, 02:44:03 PM by Paul Strefling »

318is93

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« Reply #23 on: March 26, 2008, 03:10:00 PM »
What was the cost for the lifters?

Paul Strefling

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« Reply #24 on: March 26, 2008, 03:49:55 PM »
BMW oem is $15.50/lifter, VW lightweight is $10.75/lifter

318is93

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2008, 12:03:55 AM »
Have a PN for the VW?

Paul Strefling

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« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2008, 04:47:17 AM »
I believe it is 050109309J,  I do not think the J is important though,  if you search this forum you will find another reference to that part number.

hoevesruperd

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Ticking Possibly in the Valve Train
« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2008, 05:01:07 AM »
Alex

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