Author Topic: should my timing chain be done? (Read 16208 times)

tjts1 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 24, 2008, 07:35:30 PM »

Yeah. M42 top, M44 bottom.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1108/533584601_5ec4defc88_o.jpg
I would go with wise old dog. Check the compression and make a decision from there. If the rest of the engine is healthy and ur willing to do the work, go for it. Otherwise look for an engine out of an E36.
With the right tools and parts on hand it seems to me like the timing chain and gears should be about 2 days worth of work.

1991 318is · « **Reply #16 on:** February 24, 2008, 08:01:56 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;43483

Yeah. M42 top, M44 bottom.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1108/533584601_5ec4defc88_o.jpg
I would go with wise old dog. Check the compression and make a decision from there. If the rest of the engine is healthy and ur willing to do the work, go for it. Otherwise look for an engine out of an E36.
With the right tools and parts on hand it seems to me like the timing chain and gears should be about 2 days worth of work.

ya but its still not cheep, the tensioner should be smooth as you push it in right? because its not kinda has a couple spots where its stiff. i think tomorrow i'm going to the dealer and getting the oil pan seal and a new tensioner, thats probably all i'm going to change. see what it does.

1991 318is · « **Reply #17 on:** February 24, 2008, 08:05:32 PM »

what loctite do i put on the bolts in the oil pan?

Wise Old Dog · « **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2008, 09:19:56 PM »

The tensioner should have a tight spot where the "catch" on the inside engages. As worn as those gears looked, you probably should install the tensioner already extended. You don't want to skip a tooth.

1991 318is · « **Reply #19 on:** February 25, 2008, 05:50:28 AM »

Quote from: Wise Old Dog;43491

The tensioner should have a tight spot where the "catch" on the inside engages. As worn as those gears looked, you probably should install the tensioner already extended. You don't want to skip a tooth.

ya ill just push on it and get another hand to turn it i'm going to the dealer to get one today and the oil pan seal, also do you guys think i should change that little guide on the top between the cam sprockets?

rusty · « **Reply #20 on:** February 25, 2008, 11:04:27 AM »

I had that some problem on my m42, started getting the chain slap, but if i rev above 3500 i would go away, but return up engine revving back down so i replaced the chain tensioner, and i installed mine all the way extended, noise got better could still hear it everyonce in a while, then it started pretty regular again so i installed some lucas oil stabilizer miracles happenend noise gone and on my merry way, wasnt merry very long about a month or so noise came back and this time it was pissed, would not go away and was like i never heard it, so off with the front cover, i think i can help you with that piece of aluminum i aint good sorry, i had so much chain slap that i finally ripped my chain tensioner out out of the front cover sending it into the cover to grind away, i just replaced my engine it was cheaper, i hope better luck for you but that chunk of aluminum doesnt look good, just dont want you to waste time and money on false hopes as i did, pull you front cover off before you go any further.

sheepdog · « **Reply #21 on:** February 25, 2008, 12:37:30 PM »

A bit of warning...
If you change that tensioner now, there is a good chance your chain will start to self destruct.

Check your oil pickup screen and make sure it is not punctured.

What happens is the bolts in the pan, get pushed through the pickup screen. You can see the pan has been hit and the bolts pushed in. If there is a hole in that screen, replace it.

When you replace the tensioner, due to sprocket wear and a change in tension, the chain will start to shed rollers. These get sucked up through that hole in the pickup and you get what Bmwman91 and myself experienced, complete pump failure. This means replacing pump, chain, sprockets, timing chain housing ($$$) and more.

That chunk of aluminum is NOT good. It is not part of the rails that is for sure.
In fact it looks like it may be a part of the upper pan.

I would not simply put the engine back together unless you have AAA.
If you do have it, go for it, drive till it pops then find another engine.

chain breaks rollers, and those get sucked up by the pump, through the holes in the pickup created by the bolts in the ban.

tjts1 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 25, 2008, 03:21:46 PM »

Is there a chance the chain is slapping around because of the loose bolts allowing the oil pump to suck up air and therefore not provide enough oil pressure to the tensioner? Maybe reinstalling the bolts is the fix. Obviously this chain and sprockets are too far gone but maybe the loose bolts is the cause of all these timing chain failures. For example I found the couple of the bolts finger tight but none were dropped in the oil pan and my timing gear looked great. Just an idea.

sheepdog · « **Reply #23 on:** February 25, 2008, 07:12:05 PM »

Quote from: tjts1;43550

Is there a chance the chain is slapping around because of the loose bolts allowing the oil pump to suck up air and therefore not provide enough oil pressure to the tensioner? Maybe reinstalling the bolts is the fix. Obviously this chain and sprockets are too far gone but maybe the loose bolts is the cause of all these timing chain failures. For example I found the couple of the bolts finger tight but none were dropped in the oil pan and my timing gear looked great. Just an idea.

Possible, but I would not count on it.

1991 318is · « **Reply #24 on:** February 25, 2008, 09:32:44 PM »

well i think that putting the tensioner in is better then leaving it slap like it is. hope it last this summer maybe do a swap next winter. see how it works. and it was $95 for the tensioner at the dealer. should be in in a few days.

318is93 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 25, 2008, 09:46:37 PM »

11-31-1-743-187-M40 $44.00 - Pelican parts
Thats the tensioner i'd want in a 93?

1991 318is · « **Reply #26 on:** February 26, 2008, 05:43:22 AM »

i live in Canada so i don't get free shipping for parts and stuff like in the us and the only place around i can get stuff like that is the dealer. and i don't want to wait for shipping and stuff.

sheepdog · « **Reply #27 on:** February 26, 2008, 11:35:31 AM »

Quote from: 1991 318is;43590

well i think that putting the tensioner in is better then leaving it slap like it is. hope it last this summer maybe do a swap next winter. see how it works. and it was $95 for the tensioner at the dealer. should be in in a few days.

That is the problem, you are damned if you do, damned if you don't.

If you put this in, the chain will start to shred itself.
If you don't your chain will bust up the inside of your engine.

Putting it in, is only delaying the inevitable.

1991 318is · « **Reply #28 on:** February 26, 2008, 03:24:14 PM »

Quote from: sheepdog;43626

That is the problem, you are damned if you do, damned if you don't.

If you put this in, the chain will start to shred itself.
If you don't your chain will bust up the inside of your engine.

Putting it in, is only delaying the inevitable.

maybe a motor swap next winter? m50??

Wise Old Dog · « **Reply #29 on:** February 26, 2008, 04:52:24 PM »

You may have a perfectly good engine there. Go ahead and put it back together, put your tensioner in, and do the compression check. If it checks out, you can look around for some deals on the timing parts and do the job yourself. I figure $500 or less if you are patient and take your time finding parts. There are some new gears on e-bay recently for $20 each. Item number: 250220079772. Chain is about $50, rails are about $200.

If you continue to drive it, only bad things will happen, and you might as well start looking for a replacement engine. And remember, used engines come with problems as well.