Paint (engine, accessories, body) powerder coat

[hoevesruperd]

in the learning stage of my restoration i have been looking at different kind of paints for different usages. i'd be interested to know what is the best.

1- the body.
i have many rust spots. some are major and need attention. the color of the car is brilliantrot. its a little faded so i'm wondering if i have to respray the whole car and if its worth taking everything out including the engine or if i could go and do some patch work? also what is the best kind of paint and if there is a difference in quality between patch up or a whole respray.

2- engine bay
i have several parts that need attention in the engine bay. from the headlights rack to the abs rails and the engine/intake/valve cover and more. i'm wondering if high-heat Tremclad would do the job. i'm going to paint everything black anyways.

i've heard of powdercoating as well. is there a big difference in terms of life time between that and regular Krylon Engine Paint?

also: there's a type of rubber paint for under the floors (on the outside of the car) should i be applying that after the brilliantrot or directly on primer or bare metal. and where should i start painting with it? under the tranny and under the fenders?

actually there is a really bad looking anti-rust material that has been sprayed under the front rocker panels. what is that (was it factory sprayed?) and, since it will be scraped off if i do a total respray, what should i replace it with?

thanks for all the information. i tried searching this forum but you will understand that the words paint, respray, clear coat, primer are common to many threads

[pbgd3skier]

The best way to get paint going is to fully strip everything.  Its not that cost effective, but necessary if you really want to get the paint right.  Since its not cost effective, and on unibody cars like these that you can't break it down easily to panels and frame etc. its often easier to focus on individual trouble spots.

The next bit of difficulty, your car is red.  Red is TERRIBLE when its oxidized/faded and aged.  You cannot just use the paint code and expect it to match, because it won't.  Therefore for repair of spots of rust etc. its fairly common to match the color surrounding the repair, and then possibly spray many different colors if you repaint different areas of the car, its about the same as an aged white car, white does not = white...

Therefore the best approach for you is likely to remove all the trim, bumpers, as much as you can and then have the body work done, all rust needs to be removed as best you can (I use a small spot sand blaster on stuff I can do, holes need to be cut out and new metal welded in place, don't settle for tons of body mud, its not a repair its a coverup.

Paint is a huge topic, but there is plenty of information on google.

Powdercoating is far thicker and harder than paint.  It is a more durable surface, but it must be baked on.  Some people "home" powdercoat by baking in the oven, for large items like chassis parts etc. its common to have a place like a trailer/frame shop powdercoat it, the surface is too thick to use to finish body panels, and should be reserved for durable finishes on smaller parts.  On engine components it can be very durable, but its not really diy.

Rubberized undercoating is a pain in the butt, I always just use por-15 instead, the rubberized stuff is hard to deal with but I often wirewheel anything loose off chassis and underbody then touch it up with por-15, and then if you want the same texture a spray can of rubberized undercoat does it. Por-15 hates uv so avoid that.

With painting cleanliness is key, no grease wax or oil can remain on the surface if you expect good results.

I believe there is a DIY for painting in the DIY segment.  I would start there, and then ask specifics.

[hoevesruperd]

thanks again for your help. i will read a lot on the topic before i start stripping the car in may. i'm still nervous about it since i've never painted a car but i really need to do it to learn.
i'll then post pictures in the restoration thread i made.

[pbgd3skier]

hardest thing to do is find a place to paint.  I had access to a pole barn and laid plastic tarp, drove in then hung plastic.  Have to keep in mind that the paint will drift around in the air, and dust will ruin the surface.

[hoevesruperd]

when you say the paint will drift in the air. i assume a larger area would be better? but if its larger the risks of having dust are higher too.
my parents own a farm 2 hours south of Montreal so i'll go stay there for a month or two, the time to restore and respray the car. i might be able to find a place in the tractor's garage or i'll build myself some sort of tent.

[pbgd3skier]

eh you don't need a large space, small is fine.  But you have to keep in mind that the paint can go everywhere, so you have to have your masking and what not to keep it from going everywhere.

As in if I paint in my garage, next to a car that's worth alot more than what ever i'm painting, I need to effectively prevent the paint from drifting out of my enclosure or else I am going to be polishing ALOT of paint off.

[RED IS 91]

check this out

http://www.neilslade.com/Papers/Painting.html

[hoevesruperd]

check this out

http://www.neilslade.com/Papers/Painting.html

thanks