Author Topic: Personal Tune-up (Read 4858 times)

E-30Dubbsz · « **on:** December 19, 2007, 08:38:47 PM »

Alright, I have to get an emissions test done soon and I have already got my hole rusted muffler changed:) next on my list is to give it a quick tune up:rolleyes: I plan to do the following after x-mas:

-Oil change to full synthetic 15w 30
-Oil filter(of course)
-Magnetic oil drain plug
-Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs
-Cold air intake filter + adapter

Is there anything else I should consider changing? Mind you I'm on a low budget for now.

haledj · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2007, 08:54:35 PM »

Don't get the +4 platinums, they are not as good as the standard single electrode spark plugs and are more expensive.

The cold air intake will more than likely lose HP, as the stock setup is well designed. However, it will sound cool.

I would replace all your vacuum hoses, plug wires, tranny fluid, diff fluid, and maybe a z4 shifter.

What do you want out of the car?

318kid · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2007, 09:03:40 PM »

Maybe you should replace your O2 censor if you havent in awhile and maybe plug wires(they are abit expensive though)?

E-30Dubbsz · « **Reply #3 on:** December 19, 2007, 09:32:05 PM »

well i got the car 2 months ago how will i know if the o2 sensor needs to be changed?:confused:

haledj · « **Reply #4 on:** December 19, 2007, 09:43:25 PM »

You said you passed emissions, so I wouldn't worry about it. If it is bad you will get a CEL and a 1222 code.

E-30Dubbsz · « **Reply #5 on:** December 19, 2007, 09:46:15 PM »

I need to pass it .. but i haven't got a Cel and 1222 code so i guess its fine

D. Clay · « **Reply #6 on:** December 19, 2007, 10:50:35 PM »

For emissions, the main thing is that the car is in good tune. Take it out and run it at 70 mph for about 25 miles. Check for leaks in the vacuum lines and intake boot. Everything else is mainly parts replacement if there's a problem. Idle control valve, injectors, O2 sensor, plug wires. etc. In Texas you get one free retest if you fail. I always go in and if it passes, cool. If not, then I get busy.

E-30Dubbsz · « **Reply #7 on:** December 19, 2007, 11:05:51 PM »

Okay, i am just going to do the full synthetic oil change with both filters and then go in for the testing.

JHZR2 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 20, 2007, 07:42:18 AM »

Run a bottle of a GOOD injector cleaner through the car over the course of the tank of fuel you have in right now. I suggest Amsoil PI, as I personally have had good success with its use in my M42. You can find it here: Amsoil PI It is really beneficial stuff, and has been shown to do the following:
• Improves fuel mileage an average of 2.3% and up to 5.7%
• Reduced emissions
• hydrocarbons (HC) up to 15%
• carbon monoxide (CO) up to 26%
• nitrous oxides (NOx) up to 17%
• Restored power and performance
• Reduced need for costly higher octane fuel
• Reduced noise from carbon rap and pre-ignition
• Better drivability
• Smoother operation

Also suggest replacing the plugs, and even the wires if you don;t know their history and they look OE. I think the wires are good quality, and good for at least 100k, but if you want to get onto a clean slate, now is the time to do it. NGK BKR6EK duel electrode plugs are the OEM, and NGK wires are also high quality. You can search for the items you need by year make and model here:
Application guide Plugs and wires are really easy on this car/engine. Just do them cold and it will be a pleasant job.

After running the tank of fuel system cleaner through, changing your plugs, then change you oil. Use the oil of your choice for your climate. Many folks are fond of Rotella syn 5w-40, available from wal-mart. Chevron Delo 400, 15w-40, and Mobil1 15w-50 are also common. Replace your oil and panel filter and be done with it!

O2 sensor may be a good thing to replace, but you need to baseline first. I assume there is no CEL. It is tough to test an O2 sensor without an oscilliscope, though some claim the "disconnect and see if your idle changes" test is a good way to see if the sensor is OK. In my experience, they get flaky at either ~80k, or else at ~160k. If they make it to the first point, then theyll make it on. And, in my experience, the early failures have been the secondary sensor (post-cat), only used to determine cat efficiency in OBDII cars.

I'd skip the sensor unless you find other driviability or overall poor economy issues. Depending upon your mileage and test results, you may want to consider changing it, but for now, IMO, youll be OK.

Good luck!

D. Clay · « **Reply #9 on:** December 20, 2007, 10:18:38 AM »

I have heard that injector cleaner is kerosene. It sure smells like it. Any body have info on this?

JHZR2 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 20, 2007, 01:28:59 PM »

Often times injector cleaners use kerosine as a carrier of the active components. In reality, the presence of the bulk carrier is irrelevant, so long as at the correct dilutions, it properly combusts and carries the additives to do what they should.

Kerosine is not a bad carrier. Some solvent based fuel additives can be REALLY bad, and this will be evidenced by higher soft metal (i.e. bearing) wear.

Good additives, such as amsoil PI, techron and fuel power FP60 do not seem to have this issue. Amsoil PI is certainly the most potent, and is also, IMO the best value. Especially the newest formulation, which has been seen across the board as a major advancement in fuel additive chemistry. This formulation brings about 5000 ppm of new cleaning additives.

I may be able to get a special price on Amsoil PI if enough folks are interested. Also if you are more interested in the actual particular chemistries, I can go deeper into that as well. Heck, Ill even do chromatorgraphy of the formulations to show the exact chemical makeup.

JMH

E-30Dubbsz · « **Reply #11 on:** December 20, 2007, 10:03:38 PM »

Quote from: JHZR2;39799

Run a bottle of a GOOD injector cleaner through the car over the course of the tank of fuel you have in right now. I suggest Amsoil PI, as I personally have had good success with its use in my M42. You can find it here: Amsoil PI It is really beneficial stuff, and has been shown to do the following:
� Improves fuel mileage an average of 2.3% and up to 5.7%
� Reduced emissions
� hydrocarbons (HC) up to 15%
� carbon monoxide (CO) up to 26%
� nitrous oxides (NOx) up to 17%
� Restored power and performance
� Reduced need for costly higher octane fuel
� Reduced noise from carbon rap and pre-ignition
� Better drivability
� Smoother operation

Also suggest replacing the plugs, and even the wires if you don;t know their history and they look OE. I think the wires are good quality, and good for at least 100k, but if you want to get onto a clean slate, now is the time to do it. NGK BKR6EK duel electrode plugs are the OEM, and NGK wires are also high quality. You can search for the items you need by year make and model here:
Application guide Plugs and wires are really easy on this car/engine. Just do them cold and it will be a pleasant job.

After running the tank of fuel system cleaner through, changing your plugs, then change you oil. Use the oil of your choice for your climate. Many folks are fond of Rotella syn 5w-40, available from wal-mart. Chevron Delo 400, 15w-40, and Mobil1 15w-50 are also common. Replace your oil and panel filter and be done with it!

O2 sensor may be a good thing to replace, but you need to baseline first. I assume there is no CEL. It is tough to test an O2 sensor without an oscilliscope, though some claim the "disconnect and see if your idle changes" test is a good way to see if the sensor is OK. In my experience, they get flaky at either ~80k, or else at ~160k. If they make it to the first point, then theyll make it on. And, in my experience, the early failures have been the secondary sensor (post-cat), only used to determine cat efficiency in OBDII cars.

I'd skip the sensor unless you find other driviability or overall poor economy issues. Depending upon your mileage and test results, you may want to consider changing it, but for now, IMO, youll be OK.

Good luck!

So, i went to my local canadian tire(retail store kind of like wal-mart) and picked up NGK Iridium high performance BKR6EIX(couldn't find NGK BKR6EK)

They have mobil 1 full synthetic oil 5w-30/10w-30 4.4L with extra 1L bottle aswell. My question is would it be alright to go with such a low grade of oil for oil change?

JHZR2 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 20, 2007, 10:56:56 PM »

I'd go with a 40wt. In canada, you should be able to buy mobil delvac 1, shell rotella synthetic, both of which are 5w-40. Petro Canana and others likely also have 5-40 oils.

Esso XD-3 0w-40 is another EXCELLENT oil.

I'd avoid a 30wt mobil1 produc in these engines, the HT/HS ratings arent high enough, IMO, and our engines really are designed for an ACEA A3 rated oil, whereas M1 in those grades are ACEA A1/A5 (less robust, designed for different applications in other varieties of engines).

JMH

JHZR2 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 20, 2007, 10:58:46 PM »

Quote from: E-30Dubbsz;39827

So, i went to my local canadian tire(retail store kind of like wal-mart) and picked up NGK Iridium high performance BKR6EIX(couldn't find NGK BKR6EK)

Are those dual-electrode plugs? OE was dual or tri-electrode NGK plugs. Ive heard of platinum plugs not being all that great in M4 engines. Id try to det the dual electrode design if the plugs you have dont have it...

Iridium plugs are $$$$ and of no particular benefit in this engine, where it was designed for coppers and they are REALLY easy to change out.

JMH

E-30Dubbsz · « **Reply #14 on:** December 20, 2007, 11:20:33 PM »

damn their single. That's okay i can return them.