Author Topic: Crankshaft Pulley (Read 6066 times)

m42mccabe · « **on:** November 19, 2007, 05:13:32 PM »

I'm about to do the timing chain and I'm not sure of the best way to get the crankshaft pulley torqued back to 230 ft-lbs.

Also, I've been told to replace the cams. Would performance cams be a good idea in an engine with 160k? Should I do the head gaskets and get the heads re-surfaced and maybe new piston rings while I'm at it?

kowalski · « **Reply #1 on:** November 19, 2007, 07:10:42 PM »

Quote from: m42mccabe;37962

I'm about to do the timing chain and I'm not sure of the best way to get the crankshaft pulley torqued back to 230 ft-lbs.

Also, I've been told to replace the cams. Would performance cams be a good idea in an engine with 160k? Should I do the head gaskets and get the heads re-surfaced and maybe new piston rings while I'm at it?

if you have the coin and you go that far you may as well do a full rebuild and maybe stroke it:) and/or FI

dhirsch · « **Reply #2 on:** November 21, 2007, 09:20:26 PM »

Quote from: m42mccabe;37962

I'm about to do the timing chain and I'm not sure of the best way to get the crankshaft pulley torqued back to 230 ft-lbs.

Also, I've been told to replace the cams. Would performance cams be a good idea in an engine with 160k? Should I do the head gaskets and get the heads re-surfaced and maybe new piston rings while I'm at it?

If you don't have a torque wrench that can handle 230ftlbs you may be able to rent one somewhere. Mine only goes up to about150 or 175. I torqued it to that and then just used a regular wrench to get it about an extra 1/8 of a turn. I've heard of others doing that with this bolt and also wheel bolts where a high amount of torque is needed and haven't run into any trouble yet.

If you can do a compression and leakdown check on the engine do that before you start with the project. If you find that compression and leakdown all look good you should have no trouble with putting a hot set of cams on. If you do see issues now's the time to do it all...good luck with the project.

m42mccabe · « **Reply #3 on:** November 22, 2007, 12:20:47 AM »

Quote from: dhirsch;38121

If you don't have a torque wrench that can handle 230ftlbs you may be able to rent one somewhere. Mine only goes up to about150 or 175. I torqued it to that and then just used a regular wrench to get it about an extra 1/8 of a turn. I've heard of others doing that with this bolt and also wheel bolts where a high amount of torque is needed and haven't run into any trouble yet.

Do you think my clutch will hold that much torque? It's near the end of it's life so I'm not sure.

dhirsch · « **Reply #4 on:** November 22, 2007, 10:13:16 AM »

Quote from: m42mccabe;38125

Do you think my clutch will hold that much torque? It's near the end of it's life so I'm not sure.

When I did mine I tightened the crankshaft bolt as much as possible, then threaded in 2 bolts in the vibration damper. I used a spanner wrench hooked to the two bolts so there wasn't pressure on the clutch.

If you want pictures of what this would look like let me know. I've got an extra vibration damper in my basement I can use for the pics...

m42mccabe · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2007, 01:40:55 AM »

Yea pictures would be helpful. It makes sense but I'm still getting to know the M42. I'm just working on finding quality parts at a affordable price so take your time.

Thanks

gearheadE30 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2007, 08:45:23 AM »

pelicanparts.com is great, but a lot of their stuff isn't OEM. BMAparts is another good one. Their online catalogue doesn't have much in it, but they can get anything that the dealer can get and probably more for a much better price.

dhirsch · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2007, 11:33:17 PM »

If your not a member of the BMW CCA you might want to think about joining. There's 2 or 3 dealerships in my area that give between 10-20% off on parts. One job like this will more than pay for the membership fee's and you get a subscription to roundel as well.

I'll try to get pictures of what to do with the crankbolt sunday...

m42mccabe · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2007, 11:40:10 PM »

Thanks,

I can hear a bit of rattle in the timing chain when it's hot. Should I stop driving it altogether or can I keep her well oiled and drive softly?

dhirsch · « **Reply #9 on:** November 24, 2007, 06:37:35 PM »

Quote from: m42mccabe;38245

Thanks,

I can hear a bit of rattle in the timing chain when it's hot. Should I stop driving it altogether or can I keep her well oiled and drive softly?

If you've got another way to get around I'd stop driving the car till you got a chance to change everything. I'm a fairly cautious person though.

Here's pictures of how I removed and installed the crankshaft bolt using a spanner on the vibration damper with 2 longer M8 bolts and some nuts and washers (washers aren't pictured below, but would go between the spanner and the extra nuts)

I already had a large spanner that I've used for holding the trans output flange still while removing the 30mm bolt that holds it to the output shaft (the spanner is picture 1)

Along with the you'll need some longer bolts, nuts, and a couple washers to be safe (you can find these at Home Depot/Lowes/your local hardware store). I think the bolts that hold the vib. damper to the crank sprocket are M8, but check to make sure.

Removal:
1. take all bolts out of the vibration damper.
2. insert longer M8 bolts with washers and extra nuts
3. use the bolts to hold the spanner while you loosen up the crank bolt (with the engine in the car the handle of the spanner will hit the ground which keeps it from turning.

Installation is reverse of removal. In the pictures the timing case is already removed because this is a block I've got in my basement. There's a factory style tool you can use rather than the spanner that attaches to each of the bolts on the vib. damper, but I had no trouble with the spanner, just make sure you use the extra nuts to hold the spanner tight against the vib. damper, otherwise you'll just bend the bolts and won't get anywhere. If you need further instruction just let me know....HTH.

teamgtnfx01 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 02, 2007, 10:00:27 PM »

if an impact gun is used for disassembly and installation ( with a torque stick) do u need a spanner to hold the pully in place and wut else can be used to hold the pully in place instead of a spanner

sheepdog · « **Reply #11 on:** December 02, 2007, 11:12:31 PM »

Quote from: teamgtnfx01;38785

if an impact gun is used for disassembly and installation ( with a torque stick) do u need a spanner to hold the pully in place and wut else can be used to hold the pully in place instead of a spanner

A piece of metal cut and drilled can work.

DZick · « **Reply #12 on:** December 03, 2007, 06:08:41 AM »

Actually there is a (YELLOW)plug that you can undue on the tranny that if you stick a screw driver in it locks the flywheel so you can give any amount of pressure(until the screwdriver breaks)

It also gets you locked into TDC for timing!

I just heard about it when i was doing mine a few weeks ago.