OK, still need help...found likely source of Vibration, Not sure on engine hesitation

[AFARR]

I played with the car a bit today:

Replaced the Check Engine Light, so could read codes.   Got 1222 code only (stored code).   That (per looking through the links provided here) was kind of a garbage code, and may have come from a vacuum leak I had earlier.

Cleared the codes got 1444.

Went for a test drive....tried to pay VERY close attention to the way it was running.

Blipping the Throttle with no load causes almost no problems.

Idle is smooth (didn't note the very minimal thumping backfire that I had last time I tried running).  

Under load (acceleration), very hesitant, loses power, must give significant gas to get started.   Seems that when up to speed, it cruises OK.

Came back.

Only trouble code was the 1444.

Took a can of Seafoam and ran it through the intake...made lots of pretty smoke!!.

Shut it off after the last of the can went through....I'm going to let it sit for a while and then change the oil and filter.

So, I pull the plug wires, check the resistance...6k ohms (if I set the meter right), all of them read identical.  Moved the wires a bit to eliminate any possible partial breaks, but no change.

Checked the coils...#4 has some corrosion at the male and female parts on the coil/wire, rest are spotless.  

Check #4 coil..getting battery power and resistance is correct.

Cleaned all the corrosion.

Now, while I was doing this, I notice the likely source of the vibration...the Engine mount 'tab' on the right side of the car--where the rubber engine mount bolts to the subframe has cracked loose at the area where it bends away from the subframe.   (My vibration was on turning right.)  I jack up the car and notice that the Upper Oil Pan is resting on the Steering Rack...

So, I know I need NEW engine mounts, and the subframe welded.    My wife is already starting to nag about all the parts for the car (CSB, Trans Mounts, etc.).   I want to get the cheapest, functional engine mounts (Doesn't matter if I have to cut the tabs off, etc.) for the car...any recommendations?

I have a call in to my Brother (who can weld) to find out what it will take to get the Subframe welded.  Shouldn't be too hard to do once it is off the car.  Probably won't bother to take it off the car until next weekend when I have all the parts and can weld it and get it assembled instead of doing it piecemeal.

Still not sure what else to check on the engine (before I order parts Monday)...any thoughts as to what might be testable with the simple multimeter I have here?

So, to reiterate (in case you don't want to read the novella above)...
What are the cheapest substitute Engine Mounts that will work with the car?
Any thoughts on sensors, etc. that I should be checking that might cause the hesitation under load?

Thanks!

[roelpeeters]

My car hesitated under load allthough at a specific rev,  turned out that one of the sparkplug wires was cracked at the bottom. the plug wires are a pretty common fault, but unfortunately rather expensive to replace.

[AFARR]

Resistance on all of them is 6k ohms, and they seem to be in good shape (no change to the resistance on moving them while checking).

The wires are bright blue...I believe the PO replaced them at some point (likely between 125k and 150k miles).

Thanks!

[bmwman91]

A guy on here checked everything under the sun & the hesitation turned out to be ignition wires.  I would still bet on those being bag, or maybe one of the coils.

As for cheap engine mounts, look into some for a 1987+ 535iS (PN ends with 793).  They can be had for $30-$40 each, versus the $110+ each for the M42 stockers.  You have to lop off some little alignment tab thingies, and either stack a bunch of washers or get an M10x1.5 die to cut more threads on the studs, but it is still pretty easy to use them.

[AFARR]

Thanks again...

I actually ordered some from AutohausAZ (good success with them in the past) today (The engine mounts).   Once that is resolved, I'll go through the wires, etc.  

Thanks.

AFARR