Author Topic: idle air hose Q (operating in the dark) (Read 3238 times)

MichaelP · « **on:** August 29, 2007, 10:27:54 AM »

Hi. I'm a new guy here with a recently acquired '91 318ic. I've worked on M10s, S14s and M30s, but am new to M42s.

I'm trying to replace all the idle air hoses from the ICV to the intake boot, but I'm waiting on an E36 Bentley manual, so I'm operating a bit in the dark.

The question is: does the intake plenum have to be removed to access the clamp for the metal, U-shaped coolant line that lies just below the throttle body? I'm trying to replace the idle air hose elbow through which that coolant line passes.

Say it aint so...

Edit: it appears the clamp might be accessed from below, right in front of the starter. Correct?

badboypolar · « **Reply #1 on:** August 29, 2007, 10:50:00 AM »

There is a link under resources for the E36 bentley via download.

You can also check http://www.realoem.com for a temp schematic.

MichaelP · « **Reply #2 on:** August 29, 2007, 10:54:38 AM »

Aha. Thanks for the Bentley link. And yeah, the realoem coolant line diagram is as much as I've had to go on so far...

St�ck · « **Reply #3 on:** August 29, 2007, 11:39:18 AM »

It really depends at what angle the last ass monkey to work under there installed it.

I always try to pick the most accessible direction for it to face... but the same is not true of many mechanics.

If you have a long reach flexible shank nut driver of the proper size it makes just about any of them cake.

D. Clay · « **Reply #4 on:** August 29, 2007, 01:30:32 PM »

You can run the ICV hose direct and bypass the siamese hose under the intake. The section going from the ICV to the intake is under vacuum and has a hose that doesn't compress. From the intake boot to the ICV can be replaced with heavy duty heater hose and a 90 degree elbow from the Dorman "Help" rack at most auto parts stores.
I got rid of all that stuff including the throttle heater plate. I put heater hose tee caps from the same place on the head and the plastic pipe.

MichaelP · « **Reply #5 on:** August 29, 2007, 07:21:31 PM »

Quote from: St�ck;32696

It really depends at what angle the last ass monkey to work under there installed it.

By the look of the hoses, it must have been Fritz or Hans in Munich.

Quote from: D. Clay;32703

I got rid of all that stuff including the throttle heater plate. I put heater hose tee caps from the same place on the head and the plastic pipe.

It is pretty involved for just a vacuum hose. 4 hoses and 5 joints? I like the fuel hose suggestion, but I have the proper parts here in front of me...

twinpop171 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 29, 2007, 09:50:30 PM »

I changed mine without removing anything but it is a very tight space. I pulled on the U shaped coolant pipe (towards the drivers side of the car) and used small needle nosed vise grips on each coolant hose to clamp off any additional anti freeze leakage. The vise grips helped hold the coolant hoses in a workable position for re-installation later. I cut off the old vac. lines then removed the coolant pipe, inserted pipe through new vac. lines and into coolant hoses, tightened hose clamps.

I was fortunate that my coolant hoses were healthy enough for the butcher type job. Have patience and shop rags to minimize the slimy hands working in that small of a space.
Good luck, Dan.