Author Topic: Sparco Bar Issues... (Read 4386 times)

ak96ss · « **on:** August 17, 2007, 10:14:01 AM »

{sigh} One thing leads to a gajillion others.

So I've been having a problem with my wipers lately - painfully slow and if I don't hold the lever down for the single-swipe, it stops as soon as I let go of it.

I figured I needed to clean the contacts for the wiper motor, just to make sure it is getting full power. Of course, since I have the Sparco strut bar installed, it takes a little more work to get to the wiper motor.

I pulled the bar off, and noticed that even though I have washers underneath it and have slightly shaved the back of the intake manifold, it is still rubbing. Darn thing just sits too close to the motor. I knew this was an issue, and had planned at some point to take it to a shop and have them 'mash' the bar a little, just to flatten it a little where it runs across the intake to give myself some clearance. This just moves the timetable up, so I left the bar off to take it in to a shop to get this done.

I go to put the nuts back on the strut bearing studs.

The passenger side rear-most stud backed out on me with the nut halfway on. So, the nut is on, but the whole stud is spinning and loose in there. Now I have to pull the whole strut assembly off so I can get to the bearing so I can put a new stud in there, or possibly a whole new bearing. Which was new anyway, with less than 5k miles on it.

Crap.

Point being, it looks as if the Sparco bar may put too much stress on those studs, particularly if you are using washers to lift the bar for engine clearance. I'm hoping I can gain sufficient clearance by 'mashing' the bar a little over the engine, but still retain the function of the bar.

Anyone have a source for slightly longer studs? I'm not 100% on the thread engagement, and even with the bar all the way down I would like a few more mm of thread coming out of the nut. Based on the ETK, it looks like the stud is 8x18mm, so maybe an 8x22 or so.

It never ends.

sumyungguy · « **Reply #1 on:** August 17, 2007, 11:42:12 AM »

That sucks.. Putting washers on there to raise it doesnt sound like a good idea. Put a towel on the ground, put the bar on top, put a towel over it, take a 2x4, set the 2" side on the area that rubs, now take a dead blow and give it what you got. Thats what I would do if I was in your situation

ak96ss · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2007, 11:46:05 AM »

Quote from: sumyungguy;31811

That sucks.. Putting washers on there to raise it doesnt sound like a good idea. Put a towel on the ground, put the bar on top, put a towel over it, take a 2x4, set the 2" side on the area that rubs, now take a dead blow and give it what you got. Thats what I would do if I was in your situation

Well, it wasn't a stacck of washers or anything, just one washer on each stud, not even 1/8". It didn't need much height to mostly clear the back of the engine, but it was still close enough that a sheet of paper barely slid through.

I tried smacking it with a sledge, and, being that it is a steel tube, it didn't do anything except chip the powdercoating.

I figured a press would be more controllable and apply more force in the right area to slightly dent the bar.

e9nine · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2007, 12:57:16 PM »

Interesting! I can't tell if the washers are to blame though, there should be no rotation of the studs within the strut mount though. The engine moves a lot more than you think so you might have to add an extra spacer to accomdate for movement.

Another point of interest, the studs are replacement items and can be bought separately. I have replaced mine without removing the whole strut mount.

FWIW - when I run my sparco on the m42 with washers, I replaced my studs with longer ones and run washers.

ak96ss · « **Reply #4 on:** August 17, 2007, 04:03:33 PM »

Quote from: e9nine;31819

FWIW - when I run my sparco on the m42 with washers, I replaced my studs with longer ones and run washers.

Where did you get the longer studs?

I was able to pull the stud that dropped back up into the mount by loosening the other two nuts and pulling down on the strut while I tightened the nut. I left the bar off, though, as I do want to gain more room in there - the engine is rubbing on the bar when the motor torques over, so I need some clearance.

e9nine · « **Reply #5 on:** August 17, 2007, 04:10:36 PM »

Quote from: ak96ss;31827

Where did you get the longer studs?

I was able to pull the stud that dropped back up into the mount by loosening the other two nuts and pulling down on the strut while I tightened the nut. I left the bar off, though, as I do want to gain more room in there - the engine is rubbing on the bar when the motor torques over, so I need some clearance.

Home depot. They were internal hex bolts which are a strong grade. I think your local Fastenal store can meet your needs as well. I sold both my Sparco bars though...and just like many other things I sold I regret the fact as I now need to go and buy another pair :rolleyes:

ak96ss · « **Reply #6 on:** August 17, 2007, 05:17:47 PM »

Cool, I'll look in to that.

In the meantime, I got out a bigger hammer. That, and a bag of mulch as a base, enabled me to whack the heck out of the bar, and this time it worked well. I now have about 3/16" clearance with NO washers on there, and without the washers there is sufficient thread engagement that I feel more comfortable with the stock studs.

ak96ss · « **Reply #7 on:** August 17, 2007, 05:40:29 PM »

OK, some pics to enlighten those with limited imagination. :p

Before, when it was hard to slide a piece of paper between the bar and the manifold:

After:

I stuck a piece of paper behind so it would more clearly show the difference.

Vladi · « **Reply #8 on:** August 17, 2007, 06:03:13 PM »

Dude, what's the gauge near the brake fluid container for? :rolleyes:

ak96ss · « **Reply #9 on:** August 17, 2007, 06:04:21 PM »

Fuel pressure gauge.