Author Topic: Buildup: My quest for NA 180 hp (Read 84896 times)

mkodama · « **Reply #105 on:** June 11, 2008, 03:53:27 PM »

Quote from: Boyracer;51042

Huh?

And for chip and cams I stated:

Quote
I will take the car to same dyno as I went after installing chip.

So the answer is yes, I will get the actual dyno graph.

Oops, I guess I missed that part, sorry.

I was talking about a graph after the new camshafts.

Boyracer · « **Reply #106 on:** June 13, 2008, 02:07:40 PM »

Yay! Got the whine fixered, it was the chain tensioner. I just removed it, assembled it again by following Bentley's instructions and put it back. Initially it rattled quite badly but I think it needs few minutes above 3000 rpm to get enough oil pressure that eventually will put the tensioner to correct tension.

After short drive engine was as quiet as before the cam swap. I also found out that this motherfecker of chip does actually have limiter at dizzy height of 7500. Now I dared to give the engine bit stick and it honestly felt totally different to what it was as stock. It revs much eagerly and there is no feeling that it is running out of breath in high revs.

I'm glad I installed LSD during winter, it might come handy at track now :cool:

mkodama · « **Reply #107 on:** June 13, 2008, 03:24:51 PM »

Haha, cool, sounds like a lot of fun!

318kid · « **Reply #108 on:** June 13, 2008, 05:24:24 PM »

Cool, I want some vids up!

Boyracer · « **Reply #109 on:** June 19, 2008, 04:39:29 PM »

Welp, first track day with cams... I managed to improve my lap record by about 1,2 seconds.

It goes like stink compared to stock motor. Straight line speeds were up 15-20 kmh compared to chip only but that is partly due the fact that I pushed bit harder. But nevertheless, engine pulls much more willingly in high revs. And LSD is now very useful, I can steer the car on slow speed corners by throttle

There is now slight rattle when idling while gear is neutral and clutch is not depressed. Either something with the clutch (I suspect this), gearbox bearing or just a loosened catalysator heatshield (it has happened before).

Non engine related stuff then. One quite fast chap had a go in my car and he said the car understeers on slow and mid speed corners. Also it seems that stock suspension has too little neg camber up front since outer edges of front tires seemed to "bend under" quite badly. I will source few hardened M12x25 bolts and washers so I can shim front suspension bolts that hold lower part of wheel hub. That should gain me -1 to -2 degrees of camber. Photos of operation will follow!

Boyracer · « **Reply #110 on:** July 23, 2008, 06:05:46 AM »

Update!

Car has now been on two track days with cams fitted so I have now bit more to report.

First of all, my 4� mod to gain front end neg camber worked very well. I managed to lower my laptime by 1.3 secs (it is now 1:42.0) so that 4� is best investment to car by far. I added 4 mm thick shimms which gave me about -3 degrees front camber which stopped front tires to bend too much to their sidewalls.

Cams are working fine, car pulls nicely to 7000 rpm and beyond. Limiter is set at 7500 but I rarely go that high.

I seem to have persistent but mild overheating issue, stock radiator is not able to cpe with increased power. After some 5-7 laps water temp needle starts to creep up from center position. Easing the throttle a bit for 20 seconds or turning heater to max lets the temp go back where it should be but those are not practical solutions. I will clean radiator from dust and bugs to improve the efficiency. There is also stock air duct from grille to radiator that my car seems to be missing (due retrofit aircon I presume) so I will source that, it should help some. Also, I will block out lower M tech front bumber opening that is really meant for M3 and models with oil cooler. When that opening is blocked, more air will go trough radiator.

Today I will finish my 2.5" full custom exhaust and 2" exhaust manifold secondaries. I did a brief test revving yesterday while the car was on carage and it was quite loud compared to stock exhaust. Gasket was missing from exhaust manifold flange so lots of noise came from there but disregarding that, there is definitely more noise, sounds bit more deeper than before. I had second thoughts about buying baffled type Dynomax muffler instead of straight trough muffler but considering the noise level, I'm glad I did buy the quieter one! I might have to study options to kill some noise for certain tracks having 97 dB limit.

As for performance changes from new exhaust, well, I can for sure say it is 9 kg lighter then stock!

Secondary pipes are bit too large for current power but they are ok for later 200+ hp engine. All in all, new exhaust has superior flow capacity and it might help a bit on high revs already with this 165-170 hp engine. I hope to have test drive today. Or my brother drives and I sit in as passenger since I just lost my license for 6 weeks :rolleyes:

Boyracer · « **Reply #111 on:** July 23, 2008, 06:13:05 AM »

Ooops, almost forgot!

I happened to find E30 rear diff with 4.1 ratio from dad's garage. I am thinking fitting ring and pinion from it during winter if I send current LSD to maintenance and locking ratio increase (25% -> 40%), it should give useful in-gear acceleration boost.

Also, car will become 99% track car, albeit road legal so I can drive to track and back. So now I can have stiff suspension and stripped interior

xwill112x · « **Reply #112 on:** July 23, 2008, 12:02:00 PM »

just thinking out loud here..if your intrested in better track times...why dont u put a set of good rubber under the car?

Boyracer · « **Reply #113 on:** July 23, 2008, 04:37:32 PM »

Exhaust manifold secondaries and cat!

Photos of complete resonator and muffler hopefully tomorrow

Car has bone stock suspension (apart from poly bushes and front camber shimms) and I suspect sticky track tyres would be wasted with them. I now have 225/50-16 Kumho Ecsta SPT's which have treadwear rating of 320 so they are very hard and they squeel like piggies on turns.

For next season I am thinking of getting something stickier but not outright semi slicks that have treadwear rating around 80-60. But to use them I think I need suspension that has less bodyroll etc. See photo below for current suspension...

Going 320 -> 60 treadwear should shave 2-3 secs away from 1:42 laptime.

dude8383 · « **Reply #114 on:** July 23, 2008, 05:22:04 PM »

that is some kick ass progress there!

mkodama · « **Reply #115 on:** July 24, 2008, 11:59:53 AM »

Cool, sounds like a lot of progress! Can't wait to see more pics of the exhaust.

Now you just need some of these:

and some of these:

Boyracer · « **Reply #116 on:** July 24, 2008, 02:43:31 PM »

Here is the end half of the exhaust.

Bit of adjusting might be needed by filing the flanges and cutting up those turns and re-welding them to slightly different angle, one part of the pipe is bit too close to diff carrier. I think exhaust is about 2-3 cm lower than OEM system.

Front end of the car seems to be missing something...

Look at the cute itty bitty radiator

6 cylinder E36 models (325 and 328 atleast) have larger radiator, lower edge is further 11 cm down (around to the level of anti roll bar). I think I will get one of them to help the overheating issue.

nuvolarossa · « **Reply #117 on:** July 24, 2008, 03:00:11 PM »

is a lot louder than stock or comparable to an aftermarket exhaust with silencer like remus, ss...? drone?

Boyracer · « **Reply #118 on:** July 24, 2008, 04:15:39 PM »

No idea how it compares to aftermarket systems but it is definitely louder than stock. No test drivers yet but atleast in idle and low revs the exhaust has very deep bass because every exhaust pulse comes trough the system individually and retaining their forward momentum, stock exhaust mixes them together and you get pretty constant gas flow. Inside the car exhaust seems to get quieter on high revs, maybe because engine noise drowns it. I'm sure it still is loud outside the car.

I would say that on street only car you would like to have something quieter, like stock exhaust

I may have to find out ways to lower the noise, we have few tracks that have 97 dB noise limits. Somekind of choke at exhaust tip should work well.

mkodama · « **Reply #119 on:** July 24, 2008, 08:27:54 PM »

Quote from: Boyracer;53766

Look at the cute itty bitty radiator

6 cylinder E36 models (325 and 328 atleast) have larger radiator, lower edge is further 11 cm down (around to the level of anti roll bar). I think I will get one of them to help the overheating issue.

Damn, that is a small radiator. The radiators on newer BMWs are about 3 times the size of what is on the E36 318is.

E46 330i: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/u/187.png
E36 318is: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/t/4.png